2000 Honda CR-V - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The ignition wire firing order for the 2001 Honda CRV 2.0 Ltr is 1-3-4-2, the cylinders in order are 4, 3, 2, 1, and the distributor fires at 1 to 3 for the back and 2 to 4 for the front. Also, everything rotates clockwise.

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Remove the two 8 mm bolts See diagram below

Do you have a spark at the coil? Try pulling off the cable, and with somebody inside to crank the engine, check to see if there is a spark jumping from the center high-voltage terminal. If you have no spark, you may have a bad coil or bad electronic ignition module.

Check your power steering fluid level. If too low the pump will whine like that. Put some in it if low. Don't buy power steering fluid, automatic transmission fluid is the same thing and is much cheaper.

I'm assuming you don't have full coverage insurance to claim the theft for. If you do, it's the better way to go. You will need a complete list of what was taken as far as the control panel and everything behind it. I would check junk yards for your model car. I would also join a Honda car forum, these guys are pretty knowledgeable about what you'd need to buy, they'll probably ask for pictures.

you can cut the power supply to it by removing fuse or cun power supply from batt.

have the alternator bench tested if it is internally or externally regulated ( the auto electrician will advise you of that) have the regulator tested If it is regulated by the ECM check for a problem ECM

If there is a plastic cover on the front of the engine it has a timing belt, a chain required a lot of oil so the cover would be metal and well sealed

honda cr-v 2.0 L 1997-2001 engine identification B20B4, B20Z2 has a timing belt recommender interval for change is 60.000 miles, 105.000 KLMs or 84 months which ever comes first and it is classed as an intereference engine which is valve damage in the event of belt failure

Check vacuum lines have not fallen off manifold area.

These tubes normally don't come out easily. They are usually held in place with a small bracket welded to the tube and held in place with a bolt. Some are press fit to some degree. You should be able to see a small O ring on the base of the dipstick tube if it is not broken off in the block. Is there any sign of the dipstick tube showing a rusted off bracket used to hold it? If the tube is not broken off in the block, the labor charge should not be more than half an hour

Try talking the passenger door panel off, and take an electric meter and test to see if the switch is bad or the motor may be bad. God bless your efforts.

Check inside your glove box - on the left hand side. See if the radio ID# is still posted there. If so, you can try calling your local dealer (or Honda's 800 Customer Service #) and giving them that number along with your CR-V's VIN #. They should be able to to tell you the unlock code. If the radio ID# is no longer in the glove box you will probably have to pull the radio out of the dash to get to the serial # on the back or the bottom of the radio case.

A bad window switch

Hi Maggie: You're making me really nervous. Any time you start removing suspension parts without having the car safely supported you could be entering the DANGER zone. Please see if you can recruit an experienced friend to give you some assistance. Please Please Please!

Has the Transmission fluid been changed every 30,000 with Honda ATF-Z1?

If some one has put in GM Dexron III in it instead, the transmission may not shift properly and it can damage the transmission over time.

Also if some Express/Quick Lub place has flushed your Honda Transmission Dexron III or any type of Flushing agents, it's probally going to have to be replaced. Google "flushing Honda transmission" or MSN under "Express lub Transmission flush Fraud". Those back flow flushers systems damage the internal valves of many modern transmissions, both import and domestic and have NEVER been recommended.

Suggest taking it by a Honda Dealership or a aftermarket Honda/Acura ASE Certified Shop.

It sounds like the water pump shaft bearing has frozen up. A hint here, always replace the idler pulley and water pump when you do the belt, they make kits for this and they have all the parts that wear out along with the belt. As long as the engine doesn't get to hot you should be ok.

Your car does not have a carburetor. If you want to know if the fuel is reaching the engine, checking the injectors would be a possibility.

When it does occur again have someone turn it over while you check for spark, if ok check fuel pressure when problem is current, if ok take noid test light and check injector pulses. Intermittent failures are hard to find but if you keep checking you will find it. If available to you scope crank sensor and cam sensors when cold then when hot to see if the pattern changes. Keep posting results here.

Replace the serpentine belt or the tensioner. Slight possibility that it could be the power steering pump.