2002 Cadillac Deville - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It is the winter. What you see as water is just condensation from the water that is in the fuel at molecular level. The test is, Are you losing water from the coolant system? Water is nowhere new the valve stems, just oil. Leave everything as it is. Re-evaluate in summer. The head gasket can be tested with a coolant system pressure test.

you may have too much coolant in it... oddly enough,. I've seen entire cooling systems (and even the engine get replaced) and it still over heated -- when in fact it was an all of a sudden the car required a larger radiator -- and the (freaky) problem was fully solved,. in your case it may be a larger holding/ overflow tank?

Best regards
Ck

Dealership job.

Be warned: My friend Paul had his do the same...$2400.00 !

Ain't electronic grand ?

Get underneath it and connect the positive lead of a battery charger to the positive terminal on the starter (it normally has a a red rubber boot). Connect the negative to any metal earthed part of the vehicle underneath. In 5 minutes, you can get in.

under intake manifold on 32 vavle engines

Dealer junkyard online search

Do you have a master key ? How did you try an program the key to the vehicle ? If you did not have a master key you need to have dealer program the key .

check for blown fuse for int. lamps, locks fuse and 2 relays. do any locks work?

Because there are many entertainment system options for this vehicle, your only option will be to get the wiring diagrams from a service manual or a site such as Alldatadiy.com and look up your particular system option.

I suggest you try one of those instant download manuals. My nephew bought one for me when my car broke and we could fix it all by ourselves with the manual costing $10. This website reliable-store.com is very good for this. ask the girl in live chat also try manualslife.com

BCM has nothing to do with it. The CCM - cruise control module receives input from the cruise control switch, free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb enter vehicle info. under system click on engine, then under subsystem click speed control. Click the search button then the blue link.

you might have a vacuum leak ,a broken or loose vacuum hose to one of the actuatores that open and close the vents

Does air flow from the defroster vent ? Ticking is probably from stripped gear's in side the mode door actuator. electric . May have video on youtube showing how to test an replace .

Are you sure you replaced the bulbs with the same brand/model as on the passenger side? There are a lot of different versions with different light colors and intensities. If so, have you made sure there is no water vapor in the headlight housing, and that the silvering inside is not degraded?

common problem i believe its the blower relay switch If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lee_9bf2e1a3cef596dc

Cheap. Replace the alternator if you can get it off. Casting broken will be difficult to keep the belt tight. If you can do it with a washer, sounds tough because the surface of alternarors are curved and stuff.

Do you know how to do electrical testing using a wiring diagram and a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter ? Do you know how complex the electronic's are on your vehicle are . Could be something simple but then again may not be . Hooking up a professional type scan tool that can check for DTC'S in all the modules on the vehicle would be the first step in diagnosing this ! Do you know what a electronic control module is ? Your vehicle can set hundreds of code's an they don't all turn on the check engine light . Moving the ignition switch to the CRANK position sends a 12 V signal to the PCM Ignition Crank Sense. The PCM verifies that the transmission is in the PARK or NEUTRAL position. The PCM then grounds the control circuit of the START relay. When the START relay is energized it allows voltage to the starter solenoid S terminal.Do you know what Data Link Communications are ? The data link connector (DLC) allows a scan tool to communicate with the class 2 serial data line. The serial data line is the means by which the microprocessor-controlled modules in the vehicle communicate with each other. Once the scan tool is connected to the class 2 serial data line through the DLC, the scan tool can be used to monitor each module for diagnostic purposes and to check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Class 2 serial data is transmitted on a single wire at an average of 10.4 kbps. This value is an average; class 2 uses a variable pulse width modulation to carry data and depending on the message it may operate faster or slower. The bus will float at a nominal 7 volts during normal operation. Each module can pull this lower during the transmission. The bus is not at battery positive voltage or ground potential during normal operation. When the ignition switch is in RUN, each module communicating on the class 2 serial data line sends a state of health (SOH) message every 2 seconds to ensure that the module is operating properly. When a module stops communicating on the class 2 serial data line, for example, if the module loses power or ground, the SOH message it normally sends on the data line every 2 seconds disappears. Other modules on the class 2 serial data line, which expect to receive that SOH message, detect its absence; those modules in turn set an internal DTC associated with the loss of SOH of the non-communicating module. The DTC is unique to the module which is not communicating; for example, when the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) SOH message disappears, several modules set DTC U1088. Note that a loss of serial data DTC does not normally represent a failure of the module that set it. Your best bet would be to have a qualified repairs shop check it out .

The floats on those reservoirs are bad to stick because of the sealer you have to keep adding to the fluid. I got mine unstuck by removing it the reservoir and thoroughly cleaning it with dish soap. Good luck. I could not see a way to remove or replace the float.

Did you replace those parts based on the trouble code? Or are you just throwing parts at it? What are the codes? http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/flashing-check-engine-light-is-serious/

Could be a bad water pump,clogged radiator.