20 Most Recent 1994 Acura Vigor - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Have you checked to see if the emergency brakes are on? Reason I ask is it's unusual that both calipers would be seized at the same time. Once the e-brake has been released visually inspect to see that the cables are also free (loose) where they attatch to the caliper. There is a technical service bulletin which states that one side can become sticky but not both seized.

The front brake rotors are press fitted to the front wheel bearings and are removed from the car with a special tool (puller) or can be seperated by removing the whole assembly and placing it in a press to seperate them. You may damage the bearing if not done right.

1. Start solenoid stuck: remove minus battery cable. Remove starter. Remove solenoid and clean and lightly grease the slide.
2. Go to most Auto Parts Stores for a free test.
3. If the battery connections and Block Ground connections are not clean, make them clean.
4. Only clean the positive connection at the starter After removing the battery minus connection.
5. Use 150 grit sand paper to clean the small solenoid lead. If you must remove the small bolt be very sensitive of your applied pressure, these small bolts break and strip easily.
SAFETY: The last connection made is always the negative/minus battery connection for all starter related repairs. These wires will burn you if the battery is not safely disconnected and best when wrapped by a rag or paper towel.
Good Luck.

theres a relay that controls the fan, change thermostat and make sure you got 50/50 distilled water , to coolant . your water pump should be checked also. if radiator not clean, then flush it

check the refrigerant level a low charge will do this due to only half of the evaporator is working from low charge

Check for brake fluids and make sure all the brake fluid container is closed tightly. Also, you make have to bleed the brakes.

When you changed the joint, I'm assuming you had the shaft out. A common problem occurs when you put the shaft back in, it doesn't fully seat in the transaxle and then the differential is only connected to one wheel so it can't transmit power. You will have to disconnect the lower ball joint again, move the lower control arm down a bit, so that you can push the axle into the splines of the transmission.

The hood latch pull hamdel should be next to your left foot mounted on the kick panel. The noise is probally a CV-joint going out on one of your front drive axles. there should be a rubber boot over the joint, and it is busted. making dirt & road film, plus water washing the grease out from around the CV-joint. You will need to replace it. About $100.00 per axle, if you do the work????

Check the fuel filter & air filter. Also check the exhaust system. The Cat. convertor could be plugup, and not letting it breath.

Any Mechanic Shop can Fix this. Not a Really big Labor Intense Job.

these vehicles overheat real fast when u noticed the water pump leak yu should have replaced it now i think that you have over heated the head and the heads have to be removed , check for cracks and most probably you will end up doing a valve job and replacement of the head gasket, water pump and the timing belt. sorry not very cheap at all

timeng belt fex

Almost all vehicles that are fuel injected have their fuel pumps mounted inside the gas tank. If you can access the top of the tank, there should be a bung the can be unbolted, lifting the fuel filter and pump out as a single unit. Sometimes manufacturers will have an access panel inside the bottom of the trunk.

from bottom of what, we cant guess. tell or post photos with finger pointing. the A/C leaks water full time on, so that is normal. green water or orange or pink water no.

key on key off parked or moving

M/T must be a stick , huh? but.... seen just about anything grind in 65 years, on earth. yes, Reverse is the Canary great (coal mines.?) and is a non synchro great and will grind at the first provation, so the clutch system is bad. (note i said system.) no year stated, so cant guess there are 3 types clutch linkages, cable, linkages, and hydraulic slaves but the first tests is easy no matter what type it has and what is that , its the STROKE . look at bell housing (clutch inside) see the lever on the outside and the slave (most good cars have a slave cylinder) you press pedal to floor and the slave end most move 3/4 to 1" see this car do that now. a video see last video Blue BALL here marked Odds and Ends the 1.8L Clutch slave stroking 19mm click that MP4 player, Arrow and see 5 sec. vid. 2nd up from bottom of page. see this>? http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html if it dont move like that the slave/mC is bad. if it does move, correctly the clutch is dragging. black and white test. acid test. if even slightly unsure, replace master and slave if the slave fluild is low, its bad. i bet it is..... 99% true and most common of all failure on clutches is this linkage.

Fuel pumps not running, check fusebox for bad fuses.

Check the cooling fans for correct operation. Have a pressure test done on the cooling system. Have a compression test done to check for head gasket or cracks. Check the condition of the cooling fins on the radiator and if they flake off then replace the radiator. Have a flow test done on the radiator to check for blocked cores.

lower or upper balljoints