20 Most Recent 2000 Subaru Outback - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I would check your fuel pressure with a gauge set up. If it't high then your might have a vacuum leak and its dumping max fuel pressure which is usually ok when driving but then it starts to flood out engine when coming to a stop. If you hook a vacuum (Mity-Vac) hand type pump to a vacuum source and the needle bounces around, then you do have a vacuum leak, or a bad valve, but they usually catch that at the machine shop if the heads were sent in and pressure tested. Also give your EGR valve a light tape with a hammer to ensure its not sticking open at the wrong times.I hope this info gives you some new leads!~subyguru~

Here is the procedure for clearing ABS codes, the connector is up under the drivers side dash, it may be taped to another harness so just rip/cut the tape and pull down until you can see what your doing. Just FYI, the ABS module only holds 3 codes max in its internal memory even if there are 4 or more codes existing. Those other existing codes will not show up until you fix a concern, clear the codes, and if the light is still on all that means is that you just made room for another code to show up. As long as you only have the one code, you'll be fine. But if you had 3 codes, and you clear them, all the codes for the problem you fixed will be gone but now new codes may be there.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~Clearing Memory

1. After calling up a trouble code, disconnect diagnosis connector terminal 8 from diagnosis terminal.

1. Repeat 3 times within approx. 12 seconds; connecting and disconnecting terminal 8 and diagnosis terminal for at least 0.2 seconds each time.

NOTE: After diagnostics is completed, make sure to clear memory. Make sure only start code (11) is shown after memory is cleared.

The resistor pack wires are usually attached to the same wires as the blower motor. I strongly recommend replacing the blower motor at the same time if possible. It's the blower motor that is usually the reason for the resistor pack going out. So if you put just the resistor pack in, and shortly after, it goes out again then you'll know the blower motor needs to be replaced.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

The car should start in park without your foot on the brake, the brake pedal should make no difference. I would check the PRNDL switch on the side of the transmission for damage and proper operation. Most likely the switch is bad, cable is not routed right or is damaged. If you disconnect the shifter cable and make sure the trans linkage arm is fully seated in the park position, the car will start in park as long as the switch is good. If the car does not start, then you will need the switch. At the parts stores and dealership, this part name is pronounced : PRINDLE as in PRNDL (Park-Reverse-Neutral-Drive-Low).I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

As long as the oil level is still good then, no, the oil can never affect and engine this way. The flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire. Which is most commonly caused by over due spark plugs or a shorted plug, old or bad plug wires, a bad ignition coil, a bad injector. If you pull the plug wires off of the coil and it still has that shiny gold/brass color then the coil is most likely ok, but if it has a bit of light greenish power on those same surfaces then you need a new coil. Also, if you do have the 2.5L single overhead cam engine, then make sure you know if your timing belt was done at 105,000 miles. Because if the timing is off due to an old belt, then that might be causing it as well. If you suspect a bad injector, then I would run an injector flush on it or just some fuel injector cleaner additive through your fuel tank and hopefully it will clean out the injectors.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

Here is a diagram for the fuse box. Looks like fuse 12 is for the clock and interior lights.I hop3 this info helps!~subyguru~

So here is a diagram of the seat circuitry for your car. Since every other function works except the forward/backward slide function, that leaves basically the forward/backward slide motor, the seat switch, and/or the wiring. If you can verify that the wiring under the seat is in good condition without obstructions, chaffed wires, and/or wires pulled too tight, then it's safe to say it's down to just the motor and/or the switch. Sometimes if the passengers front seat has the same switch, you can plug it in to the drivers' side connector and see what works and what doesn't. If the seat works fine with the other switch, then that's all it needs, if not then it will need a motor. If the other seat doesn't have a switch then you can find them at wrecking yards, or just supply power and ground to the motor in question to see if it works. If it does, then you know you kneed a switch and if not then a motor.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

Well these are all common problems but, I have never seen them all at the same time. This is usually a clue that something all these systems have in common might be effecting all these components at the same time. The one thing I noticed that all these systems did have in common was voltage, they all had either Low Input or High Input. The front Air/Fuel Ratio sensor is most likely bad, they had a recall on those about 8 yrs ago. I would check to see if your alternator is over or under charging, if it's ok then I would say yes that all these sensors will probably need to be replaced but not without actual technical diagnosis. The knock sensors ALWAYS go out on these cars at least once in their lifetime. You could have voltage issues along with a few bad sensors. If the battery voltage is low or the battery is just bad, the alternator will be trying to charge it and almost in a way neglect the rest of the systems of their full voltage values causing them to post low voltage(Input) codes.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

Looks like you'll be looking for fuse #'s 5, 16, and 18. Here is a couple of diagrams to make it a little easier.I hope this info helps!~subyguru~Fuse Locations Fuse Panel Details

I would check to see if a little black 1-pin plastic connector was inadvertently pulled off the starter solenoid while doing the heater hose. This is the only component in that area of the engine compartment that will cause this, besides the main engine connectors. If that is ok and hooked up, then I would make sure the main engine harness doesn't have coolant inside of it. I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

check your fuel pressure and then check fuel pressure regulator fuel psi should be around 35 lbs

check fuel lines for leaks...
good luck

Replace your power window switch. ( The whole unit where all of your switches are for all four windows)

Brake caliper is sticking needs rebuilt or replaced

look on ebay.com or amazon.com

this is a fairly easy task. disconnect the battery cables on the batttery remove the + cable from the starter and the ignition signal wire these bolt onto the starter remove the 2 bolts holding the starter to the transmission install is the reverse of the above if you feel like saving a few $$ and the solenoid is still working. disassemble the starter just 2-4 bolts and change the worn out contacts for the motor. most parts stores will have them they are small copper 'L' shaped pieces and cost $5-7 total

have your head gaskets and radiator checked

Replace the plug wires and plugs and inspect the old parts for cracks and corrosion(wires) and carbon deposits(plugs). Inspecting the air filter (replace if necessary) and replacing the fuel filter may help also.

You have to hook an OBD 2 scan tool up to the data link connector and check to see what code is present. If you have a knock sensor code, you need to replace the knock sensor. If you get a P0420: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold, you will need to replace your catalytic converter. But if it is nothing important, the only way to clear a check engine light is with a scan tool. You can usually go to any aftermarket parts store and they will check and clear you codes and light for free. I hope this info helps.