20 Most Recent 1991 Subaru Legacy - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Remove the caliper and rotor, undo the axle, ball joint and the two strut bolts, and take the entire knuckle off. The hub is pressed off, then a circlip removed to press the bearing out. You need a hydraulic press to do this job.

Are you loosing water from the inside of the radiator?...then it is a blown head gasket, or a cracked head/block. Is there steam coming out of the exhaust? Is the water dripping from the exhaust pipe and from the small factory hole in the muffler....then it is normal. Most likely, as every car with air conditioning, the evaporator core collects frost even in the summer and the A/C cycles to heat it, and melt it off. It is meant to drip through a small pipe, under the car, onto the ground. It is perfectly clear and clean water. It is normal functioning of the air conditioning. In the winter when the defrost is selected to clear the windshield, the automatic air conditioning produces cold dry air, which is then heated to clear the moisture. Frost collects on the evaporator core. The system cycles to heat it off from time to time and it will drip clear water in the winter when you didn't even know that the air conditioning was on. After all who needs air conditioning in the winter when you did not select it. The automatic system turned it on to dry the re-heated air to clear the moisture from inside the car.

Remove the glove box, you will see two connectors held in with screws with wires going to them. The lower connector is the resistor pack. Disconnect the connector, remove the screws and the resistor pack will slide out when pulled on. Then put the new resistor pack in making sure the orientation is correct, install the screws, reconnect the connector and install the glove box. Then you should be all set to go. I hope this info helps!

It is located behind the glove box, once you have gained access to the space behind the glove box you will see wires going to two separate connectors that are being held in with screws. The resistor pack is the lower connector. I hope this info helps!

If it is engine related, the code is for the #1 fuel injector. If it is transmission related, It means that the output signal circuit of shift solenoid 2 is open or shorted causing a no shift concern. I hope this info helps!

Its in the under dash (right side) evaporator housing for the A/C system. It mounted on the outside case so access is fairly simple. Removal of two screws and an electrical connector is all it takes. You may have to remove glove box to see it for the first time. Air movement in that housing helps keep that resistor pack cooled down...They can get fairly hot so be careful.

If it's happening while driving and no brakes applied it's probably a belt causing the noise. There's a product available in most local auto shops that you can use to lubricate the belt. I think the actual name is "stop squeak" but I'm not positive.
If it's squeaking while breaking you may need new breaks or your breaks may be too tight. Another product exists for breaking squeals available in your local auto shop

This is a very broad question. When does it happen, in motion, coming to a stop, while you are idle? Where is the noise coming from? The better the detail, the better of an answer. Please let me know

it will be either in a pack of resistors in the heater box or be part of the heater control module in which case the module has to be replaced.

Should be a little window cover on the heater box.

If the car was newer with an OBDII emission system it would trigger the MIL or malfunction indicator light. Being an older computer control system the check engine may not light unless the PCM (powertrain control module) sensed a rich or lean mixture via the oxygen sensor. Does the check engine light turn on with the ignition key on before you actually start the engine?

I believe your referring to the radiator fan & the AC fan next to it. Warm up the car, let the cooling fan come on then put on the AC and see if both fans are running.

check your auto choke

Hi Reese, what do you mean by "won't turn over"? Does the engine rotate but not fire, or does it not even rotate? If it won't rotate, perhaps your alternator belt was loose or worn and the battery didn't get charged. If the battery is good and the engine rotates, then the alternator has possibly died. The other possibility, is that the fuel pump had died.

Possibly bad earth connection, on base plate of distributor or a broken feed wire to points, when the ignition advance works and moves the baseplate, causes intermittent bad running. Good Luck

5 speed, front wheel drive.

depends on the link that is blown . Can be 15,20,30,50 amps depending on what it is running. The amp should be on the ceramic part of the fuse holder.

Any Subaru dealer will be happy to sell you the correct replacement. The Tinker