2001 Mercury Cougar - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved to model category. What is the anti-theft light doing? https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+cougar+2.5+reset+security You say "doesn't start _immediately_". So it starts eventually? ..

You will find bolt,s or straps holding it to the frame of the car.Remove the filler pipe first remove fuel line to the front of the car remove wiring harness to fuel pump.

Cold air intakes are for hot rodding. Try and pin point the area of your noise. It could be your alternator bearing, or an idler bearing, or just a loose belt. Any one of which may go away when the engine gets warm. It could be a dirty air filter needing to be changed. More detailed analysis will locate and find the cause.

Is the battery going dead while you drive or when it's sitting? If it's going dead while you drive check the belt and tensioner. Do this, turn everything on then start the engine and rev it several times then carefully touch the alternator pulley if it's real hot the tensioner is bad and you need to replace it and the belt, in many cases the alternator will need almost 15 HP to turn under load, I hope this helps. Take care. If you have any questions for me use comments and it will show up in my email.

Take it back to the shop that repaired it. They should repair it under warranty.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t26579065-need_torque_specs_valve_cover_bolts_2001 Check this post for the specs.

Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpL_0-8DrhE

My 2001 Cougar control won't lock nor unlock the car and it just beeps rapidly when i press the controller, could it be the sensor on the door hinge? I noticed it's a little rubber boot. What could it be?

You will need to replace fuel pump assembly in fuel tank,sending unit and all.

Hello Cougar446, If you able to open your trunk with the electric release you will be able to access the lock mechanism. Once you have access to the lock it should be obvious if it is broken or just needs a little lubricant (silicone spray lube) sprayed into the key access slot. PS: If you have a spare key that has less wear and tear on it, try that key.

Hard to say what it is. Ckeck to make sure egr valve is closed by default. Check for vacuum leaks--especially intake manifold gaskets. See my notes at the link. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Could be air in system and right side not applying brakes. Also the internal rubber in brake line where solid metal line attaches to can deteriorate and form a blockage for brake fluid to not reach caliper on right side.

If you can remove components that are in your line of sight to check where the leak is coming from, it would help. Sometimes leaks come from hoses or sensor housing which mount to engine block.
Prior to removing anything, may want to use de-greaser or steam clean entire engine.

Check the fuse
If its ok che C h the pump

Your transmission has failed, sorry to be the bearer of the news.

The first thing I would do is to check the fuses. 2001 cougar fuse diagram Google Search

The filter is located inside the transmission, you must remove the pan on the bottom of the transmission, very messy fluid will go all over the place and onto you in must cases.

You most likely have a defective transmission my friend.

RE:Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Question

Just replaced both of mine two weeks ago. (I'm at 130K miles) A couple of things... - You will need to disassemble your rear brakes (calipers and disks) - My wheel caps were rusted on so I had to destroy them by using a screwdriver to chisel them open (like you would do with a tin can) Try to pry them off if you can. I am planning on replacing them in order to save the threads on the spindle from rusting. ($5 each at dealer) - I had a slide hammer handy in order to pull one of the hubs off the spindle. They were rusted on pretty bad on mine. One of the hubs was destroyed in the process of pulling. - Re-used the original nuts. They are compression nuts (same type as on the fron driveshafts) but they came off no problem so I just reused them. You might want to have one handy in case you wreck the old nuts. (They range from $6 to $8 each at the dealer) - 32mm axle nut socket - Use the socket to tap the new hub in if required. Don't beat too ******* it though... - Chiltons suggests torquing them down to 170 lb-ft (if I remember correctly) Noticeably less noise now when I'm cruising at 40 mph. I used to have some kind of cyclic harmonic grinding going on from back ther that seemed to be speed related. The new hubs also seems to have improved my "shimmy" under braking condition. Although, I can't say for sure if it was the hub itself that was the problem or the fact that I relubed my rear brake pins in the process of doing the hub.

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