1991 Audi 200 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the rubber air hoses under the hood for cracks or splits. The most common one would be the 'Michelin Man' hose that is attached to the throttle body, two other likely culprits would be the hoses that attach to the intercooler tubes. Also check the strange looking hose that runs from the fuel distributor to the intake tube. You may have to flex these hoses to see the splits, as they frequently form on the underside of the hose or in other areas not easily visible.

I agree. Replace the battery first. It's under the back seat, which will lift up after undoing two screws in the front of the bottom of the seat. Remove negative terminal, remove positive terminal, lift old battery out, put in new one, attach positive terminal, attach negative terminal, reinstall seat, and you're done.

If that's not the issue, you may need to replace the alternator.

get some W-D-40 and spray in were the key goes and some just inside the lock in the door and then put the key in and move the key slowly back and forward until the lock is free

The brakes. It goes off because your brake fluid has gone below the minimum level, and sets the sensor off. Before you go adding brake fluid, what it REALLY means is that your brake pads are so worn down that the brake pistons in your calipers are extended all the way in order to make contact with the rotors. Therefore, the amount of fluid in your reservoir is low. Replace your brake pads, and see if you also need your rotors shaved/replaced because you let them go so far. Personal note: On older cars, the brake fluid is supposed to be replaced every 3 years. See if it needs a flush. If you can, drain out all the old DOT 3 brake fluid and replace it with synthetic DOT 3 or the newer DOT 4.

http://www.audi-forums.com/forumindex.php
good site for these and other Audi,s

Question edited for clarity. https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+Audi+500+SEL+2.8+speed+sensor+location ..

Check the codes!

I would check the OBD codes for clues.

Try the row of large switches above the radio. It is most likely the middle one.

Let's break down the situation: EPC Light: The EPC light typically comes on when there's a problem with engine sensors or components. It might be related to the throttle sensor or the temperature sensor. When the EPC light activates, the engine electronics may limit power and maximum RPM. As a result, the computer might restrict the engine's performance, allowing you to drive at low speeds only. Check Engine Light: The Check Engine light illuminates when the engine management system detects a fault or error. The codes you've provided indicate specific issues: Code 17950/P1542/005442: Angle sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187) has an implausible signal. Code 16891/P0507/001287: Idle Control System RPM is higher than expected. Possible Causes and Solutions: Fuel System Issues: Given the fault codes related to fuel pressure, it's essential to check the fuel system. Low fuel pressure could cause hesitation and trigger both lights. Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF): A faulty MAF sensor can lead to engine hesitation, rough idling, and stalling. Consider inspecting or replacing the MAF sensor. Throttle Body: Although the dealer replaced the throttle body earlier, it's worth verifying its functionality again. Idle Control System: The high RPM issue might be related to the idle control system. Inspect the idle control valve and related components. Wiring and Connections: Check for loose or damaged wiring, connectors, and vacuum lines. Next Steps: Diagnostic Scan: Perform a thorough diagnostic scan to identify any additional fault codes. Visual Inspection: Inspect the throttle body, angle sensor, and wiring connections. Fuel Pressure Test: Verify fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. MAF Sensor: Consider cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor. Idle Control Valve: Inspect the idle control valve for proper operation. Remember that intermittent issues can be challenging to diagnose. If the problem persists, consult a qualified mechanic or an Audi specialist to pinpoint the exact cause and address it effectively.

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Read the ODB2 codes for an accurate assesment.

The fuel pump fuse is located in the engine bay fuse box. It is the 2nd row from the top, last fuse on the left.

The OBD2 port is connected directly to the ECM and data from other modules is shared from there. 'Mechanics' deal with the mechanical aspects of the car, you need a specialist auto electrician. They have the knowledge and experience and the ability to access and read wiring diagrams. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me The first thing to check would be the connectors on the ECM and BCM. Then open them up and look for burned out components. Full wiring diagrams normally require a website paid or unpaid subscription. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Audi+A6+Avant%2C+1.9TDI+wiring+diagram Re-reading the question, did you have one model and year of vehicle and then replace the engine from a different year and model? You can't do that, the ECM has no idea what's going on. ECM are dedicated to the engine it is connected to and programmed accordingly ..

car sold to what country ? what is VIN,m what exact engine options is there books are by full car name spec, engine, VIN, and country sorry we can't guess all that. ask Audi this new care mostly do not have the service manual sold yet. but ask them nobody else has it for sure not published yet. same answer for 100 years.

where does it leak from, investigate, you may need to tank, could be hoses. Unable to investigate take to repair shop.

The trouble code B10AE31 in an Audi Q7 pertains to the air conditioning system. This specific code indicates a fault in the air conditioning control module. To diagnose and resolve this issue, you may want to try the following steps:

1. Reset the system: Sometimes, a temporary glitch can cause the code to appear. Try resetting the system by disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes and reconnecting it. Then, check if the AC starts working again.
2. Check the fuses: Look for any blown fuses related to the AC system. The AC system may not work if there is a blown fuse. Replace any blown fuses and see if that resolves the issue.
3. Scan the vehicle: Use an OBD-II scanner or take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic to scan for any additional trouble codes. This will help identify any other potential issues that may be causing the AC problem.
4. Inspect wiring and connections: Check the wiring and connections related to the AC system. Look for any loose or damaged wires or connectors. Repair or replace any faulty components as necessary.
5. Consult a professional: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it is recommended to consult a professional mechanic or take your vehicle to an Audi dealership for further diagnosis and repair. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to accurately diagnose and fix the problem.

Remember, working on the AC system of a vehicle can be complex and requires expertise. It is always recommended to consult a professional if you are unsure or unable to fix the issue yourself.

gee a 20cent blown fuse is cheaper.' check all fuses then scan the PCM for tranny errors. using a scan tool.' there are near 10 on car checks on any failing A/t seems you skipped all that. USA car or not? we oops no 2.4l here USA> so you are posted outside USA and didnt say so first. ours has 7 solenoids in the box. tranny, and if the TCM is not happy how and can it shift right.? and EPC inside to set pressures right. ours uses A6 Quattro; Trans. Code 6HP19A; I say check all fuses., then scan the pcm/tcm then ask for help with P07nn or P17nn errors called DTC's the box is 100% electronic shifted, how can you forget to check status of the TCM./

parts costs for any car , on earth are not the same all over earth not even close, . unless in N,Korea or Cuba. new, used , rebuilt beside the mount error all those error could be just 1. even vacuum leak. P0300 says all cylinders misfire so there other P030x error are pure redundant. cam sensor is serious, in the real world that cam sensor error is very serious. and causes misfire, so misfire is expected why add up cost when you've no clue what is bad. OBD2 DTC are just the starting point of diagnosis the PCM is not AI, not by a country mile ,even to the moon. we cant watch you or the car ( in the secret act) did you crank a dead engine so LONG, that battery went low and now all computers in the car are telling lies, and is common as nails now. this effect.. no symptoms told at all just a DTC dump. no engine told at all and A4 4.2 L V8 40v DOHC >< complex this. seems it is just 1, posted ANON so no other way to know what engine is here. nor there post full of symtoms not told here and what happened the day this all started. engine died? what? starter cranking slow is not good, step 1 on all cars , we keep the battery fully charged till the engine starts to run and stays running and battery volts are 13 to 15vdc, a volt meter tool find that easy. if below 13vdc the alternator is dead or its fuses.blown. also we do not sell engine parts. here. just free advice ,just that. no miles on the car told, over 90,000 miles and the silly cam belt failed. making CAM sensor go dead? the belted cams can not be ignored the belts are changed out at 90k miles 140km https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2005,s4,4.2l+v8,1430752,engine,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759 good luck , DTC codes are not AI, not at all

Door is open, latch is closed. Use a screwdriver and place it in the latch. Using the door handle, release the latch while pulling the latch open. Now, close the door.