20 Most Recent 2004 Lexus ES 330 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You also have Circuit Breakers for your windows, Or your Master Switch ,You can Test the Driver Control Switch or the rear switches by removing the Switches and using the connector Plug and a Jump wire try jumping accross the wires,if they go up or down you could have a Bad Switch,if nothing moves more than likely your Window Motor is bad. BUT first CHECK your Circuit Breakers ,It could be Labeled as accessery Relay or circuit Breaker.

The Head Light Bulb,can be removed from the back of the headlight under the hood,you'll have limited space to work,but reach in to the back of the assembly, you'll feel a couple wires that go to the bulb socket,you'll need to pull back a rubber boot over the bulb socket,and very easy turn the whole socket until it releases from a wire hold down,and pull it out,remove bulb from wiring socket and replace it just the reverse way you took it out, DON'T touch the Bulb its self with your fingers. Ck the number on the Bulb replace it with a Compatable Bulb.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
2. Remove the ignition coil(s). The Spark Plugs are underneath the Coils
3. Using a 0.63 inch (16mm) plug wrench, remove the spark plug
4. CAUTION== Replace your Spark Plugs with the Original Type Plug Brand Name and Spark Plug Number OR you will have Problems with PRE-INGNITION: DON'T SUBSTITUTE to Any other Type Spark Plug. You might have to get them at the Dealer Ship.

It is not as complicated as you think. You just reach the light housing from the rear seats and squeeze the housing to release it from the rear panel. Once it is out, you can unplug the cable and replace the bulb. Good luck!

Here are the instructions from the factory manual. They must be followed exactly.
2004 ES330
1. Driver's door open, all other doors closed, key removed from ignition switch.
Within 5 seconds:
Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch twice.

2. Within 40 seconds:
Close and open driver's door twice.
Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch.

3. Within 40 seconds:
Close and open driver's door twice.
Insert the key into the ignition switch and close the driver's door.

4. Switch ignition ON and OFF:
A. Once to program a key remote transmitter code whilst retaining the original codes.
B. Twice to program a key remote transmitter code whilst erasing the original codes.
C. Three times to check how many key remote transmitters are currently registered.
D. Five times to erase all registered codes.

5. Remove key from ignition switch. System should now lock and unlock vehicle
once, twice or five times depending which mode has been selected. One to four
times, slowly, to indicate number of key remote transmitters registered.

6. Within 40 seconds:
Press and hold LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.
Within 3 seconds: Press any key remote transmitter button.

System should now lock and unlock vehicle once to confirm registration or twice
to indicate registration has failed.

7. Within 40 seconds:
To program additional remotes repeat step 60 now on each additional
remote you want programmed.
8. To exit programming mode open driver's door or insert key into ignition.
9. Step out of car with remote(s) in hand and test remote(s).

Let explain why these warning lights come on and stay on. The VSC/Traction Control system of course is controlled by a computer module, this module constantly monitors the systems inputs, whenever it sees a problem with a signal from any sensor that doesn't match its built in read only memory values it turns on the warning lights to alert the driver that the system has a problem and it needs service. Once a techincian has the car her will tap into the system with a tool called a scanner that reads fault codes that are stored in the control modules memory for whatever problem it detected in the VSC (vehicle stability control) and or the Traction Control system. The warning lights will remain on until the problems that prompted the computer control module to turn them on is corrected. See your local brake dealer for more details on the repairs you might need. It is impossible to estimate cost of repair until the system is tested and the test results looked at by a trained technican.

sometimes there is a rubber tube under the hood at the back of the engine bay. this tube is coming out of the firewall. (thats the metal wall at rear of engine.this tube is short and is open at one end to drip out the condensation out. this tube get's blocked debis or insects make a nest there. you open it by sticking a small screwdriver up the opening. if it blocked and you do the solution water will come out till empty

Check if individual switches of the doors work. If they do it may be an issue with the control panel at the driver's door. It could be bad contacts or loose connections. The switch of the door is connected to together in the and any disturbance or damage in the area may affect both doors. You will have to remove the panel by removing the crews and prying the panel open using a flat head screw driver covered by a rag to inspect the unit.

It may also be a wiring issue if none of the switches work. Start with the connections at the control panel. Although less likely but the problem may be with the motors. They could be stuck up. You will have to remove the door panel to inspect the unit.

this obd2 trouble code table can help you....

how long did you let it sit before you checked the ecu as some computers can take up to 5-10minutes to power down.another thing did you make sure everything was turned of and unplugged and all doors closed,have seen some people think everything was off only to find out they forgot something.have you checked the wreckers for a used one,if you write down the ecu number that is on it they may be able to match it up with one they have for less money.