Top 20 1996 Cadillac Eldorado Questions & Answers

Check radiator fan relay fuse and relay. If OK check a/c pressure switch.

with a meter test fuses relay level sensor for power to unit test and inspect unit

Does the vehicle start after sitting over night or do you need to jump start it . Is the charge light on ( batt. symbol ) at any time ? Serpentine belt good , tensioner good ? Battery cable connections good an tight and no corrosion ? Battery also good ? That is normal for battery voltage to jump up to 14 volts after starting , alternator is replenishing the battery after starting ,that draws down the battery . Going down to 11 or 12 volts when stopping and almost stalling isn't a charging system problem . You have a idle problem , IAC - idle air control valve or dirty air passage , a vacuum leak . Giving it gas and it going up to 13+ the alternator is working . Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop and have it check .

it is an abs relay

It could be a blown head gasket, crack in head or engine block, a freeze plug or water pump gone bad. You need to have it pressure tested. A pressure tester connects to radiator and is like a bicycle air pump. It puts air pressure inside the cooling system and wherever the leak is..it will leak much faster and heavier under pressure making it easier to detect where the leak is coming from. You can borrow a pressure tester from AutoZone. They have a loan a tool program..You leave a deposit they loan you the tool, when you return tool the deposit is returned..no fee charged involved..

as both units are indicated I would be checking the wheels for broken sensor wires or faulty sensors both units use the same wheel sensors.

quoil ? Coil ! This is a very complex ignition system ,rather replacing parts an costing yourself a lot of money do yourself a favor an take it to a ASE certified repair shop ! Could be any number of things ,from one of the two crankshaft sensors , cam sensor , ignition control module , engine computer etc.. Are there any codes stored in the PCM ? That's the first thing that should be done , have a scan tool hooked up ! The ignition system uses a waste spark method of spark distribution. During cranking, the Ignition Control (IC) module monitors the crankshaft position sensor signals. The signals are used to determine the correct pair to spark first. After the crankshaft position signals have been processed by the IC module, it sends a fuel control reference pulse to the PCM. When the PCM receives this pulse it will command all eight injectors to open for a priming shot of fuel in all cylinders. After priming, the injectors are left OFF for the next eight fuel control reference pulses from the IC module (two crankshaft revolutions). This allows each cylinder a chance to use the fuel from the priming shot. During this waiting period, a cam pulse will have been received by the PCM. Now the PCM begins to operate the injectors sequentially based on true crankshaft position. However, if the cam signal is not present at start-up, DTC P0340 will set and the PCM will start fuel delivery in a random pattern with a 1 in 8 chance that fuel delivery is correct. The crankshaft position sensor signals are used only by the IC module. It is used for spark synchronization and to initiate reference pulses only (not passed to the PCM). Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System Check performed? -- Go to Step 2 Go to A Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check 2 Are DTC(s) P0231, P0232, P0322, P0601, P0602, P1376, P1631, P1632 OR P1634 set? -- Go to DTC(s) that are set. Go to Step 3 3

1. Install spark tester J 26792 on one spark plug wire and ground that cylinders companion cylinder plug wire.
2. Crank engine while observing the spark tester.
3. Repeat the above steps on at least one more cylinder.

Does the spark tester indicate a crisp blue spark on all tested cylinders? -- Go to Step 4 Go to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis (Ignition System Check) When any condition is suspected to be caused by or related to the ignition control system, the first step in diagnosis should be to check for stored PCM DTCs. Diagnose all DTCs before further action is taken. If no DTCs are stored and the condition is still present, refer to the following:

Check your battery cable connections at the battery as well as the engine block. On the block remove and clean ground real good.

ensure coil is correctly connected, battery is okay? If the coil gives no power and is correctly connected it will need to be replaced It cannot be repaired

Make sure it is properly connected, if it gives no juice replace it

You can't just disconnect the anti-theft system ! . If the modules on the vehicle don't receive a coded response form the anti-theft system the vehicle will not work , no start ! This coded response is send on the class 2 serial data communication bus to the PCM - engine computer , if it doesn't see it the fuel system , fuel injectors won't be turned on ! an in some cases the engine won't even crank over ! I have read of a way to by pass the system ! If you google GM vats an pass key by pass , you will see how to do it . Don't know if this works or not ! Haven't tried it !

Usually means the vac motor is faulty, or you have lost vac to the motor. When you shift out of park, vac pulls the release for the parking brake.

traction control,torque request circuit

The brake release is vacuum operated. Check to see if a hose broke or maybe just fell off.

the car is chock-a-block full of them. do say what, try stating why first the ask about specific systems, call cars have a starter and all have solenoids, cept back when mr. bendix ruled. or before him. (owned both back to 1930)

Better get a mechanic to check it out before you drive it very much. Could be a lifter or piston pin with no oil.

Could be a lot of things, but the fuel pressure regulators break frequently and that causes an extended crank. As a matter of fact, if it were my car, I would just put one on. Is the " service engine soon" light on? If is, I would start there. I think checking the codes is easy on that year. Turn the key on. Press and hold the "off" and "warmer" buttons on the climate controls until the instrument cluster lights up like a tree. Release the buttons and let us know if there are PCM codes. They are 'Pxxxx' format. If there aren't any, it will say no PCM codes. It could also have a vacuum leak, or a clogged injector. Something like that...

1 or 2 coil packs

NO! The Freon level doesn't affect blower motor. You just won't get cool air. Check the fuse or relay.

Hey Jeff. Never assume that "new" alternator is good, but lets assume it is.The actuator wire that goes into the field of the alternator HAS to be hot with the key in run position. (both wires will be). If not, it wont charge. If those two are hot with the key on, the alternator is bad.