1997 Audi A4 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you can most likely buy the valve body but then it has to be fitted to the transmission, after that has been done you don't know if there are any other problems with the vehicle I would be a little wary to go down that path myself, after you have bought the vehicle it becomes your problem......hope this helps........cheers.

Remove the rear wheel, then the bearing cap. Then remove the split pin out, the crowed washer and bearing nut & washer. Now remove the outer tapered bearing, and the brake disk ...

The A/C condensor is also in that area and as it cools the air in the car it also removes moisture. This moisture will collect in a pan underneath the condensor and is supposed to drain out in the engine compartment. I would try to smell the water that is on your floorboards first. If it has a sweet smell and an "oily" type feel to it then your heater core probably has failed. If it is clear and odorless, then I would try to inspect the drain, at the firewall in the engine compartment for blockage.

I would never drive a car if it was overheating, not worth the cost of a new engine-at the very least, they should put that in writing so that if it does damage the engine, they buy the new engine.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
You must have the security anti-theft code for your Audi radio from the car manufacturer, or from an Audi dealer!

You can find the radio code at: http://www.radio-code.co.uk/

The sequence of radio programming is:
1. Push simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys until on the screen will appear "1000" displayed.
2. Release keys. No more push on "SCAN" and "RDS" keys because otherwise number "1000" will be considered as first safe code attempt.
For example: we have the security code "5079". Then:
3. By the no.# 1 key you will set up the first safe code digit. Push 5 times on the no.# 1 button. The "5" number will be setted.
4. By the no.# 2 key you will set up the second safe code digit. Push 10 times on the no.# 2 button. The "0" number will be setted.
5. By the no.# 3 key you will set up the third safe code digit. Push 7 times on the no.# 3 button. The "7" number will be setted.
6. By the no.# 4 key you will set up the four-th safe code digit. Push 9 times on the no.# 4 button. The "9" number will be setted.
7. Then push again simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys for confirm this safe code. On the screen will be displayed "SAFE" notice. Release keys! For few seconds a radio frequence will be displayed.
The radio is now ready for use!

can be loosing water or not holding pressure[coolant bottle or cap],top gasket,crack in block,oil cooler leaking into coolant,faulty heat gauge or sensor.hope this helps

5W30 - if you have a 2.8 V6 you can use conventional oil. If you have a 1.8T you need synthetic.

The relay can be reached by dropping the under dash panel below the steering column. The fuel pump relay is #372.

It is done for and needs replacement. That's a seal leak and rebuilding the existing rack is a nightmare. Far more economical to replace it.

It either has had the trunk replaced and the old cylinder wasn't installed, or the key you're using is the valet key. See if you can lock/unlock the glovebox. If you can't you're using the valet key. If you can, your trunk lock cylinder is not original.

Your headlight switch is melted internally - happens a lot on the A4. You need a new switch and install includes removal of the airbag and steering wheel. Not tough to do as long as you know how to work safely around airbags. If not, have it installed by a pro - airbags can kill you if you're unsure of what you're doing.

You'll have to bring the car to a dealer. With the VIN and the serial number of the radio they can look up the security code. Be prepared - you might get this done for free or a flat charge, but many will charge up to an hour's labor. Be sure they give you the code written down for future use.

It should just slide off if the caliper and carrier are off. Try hitting the sides of the "hat" (the center section where the lug bolt holes are) with a hammer - it's probably just seized. When you reassemble everything, be sure that end axle bolt gets proper torque (140 ft-lbs plus a 180-degree turn).

Pull the trunk wall lining back by the fuel filler. On my 99 A4 there is a red cable there - it's an emergency release that will pop the gas door open.

The clutch doesn't have an adjustment for pickup but Audi clutches usually grab high ^^^so your clutch, long as it isn't slipping under hard acceleration, is fine.

If you index the engine properly (put cylinder 3 at top dead center, verified by alignment of timing marks on cam sprockets and crank pulley) you can remove the belt safely - the cams won't spin. But to get the housing off, you can slide the belt forward on the cam sprocket without removing it. Do it carefully - I've slid them halfway off and had a friend hold it while I tapped the channeling plate downward and off to replace the thermostat. Then slide it back in place once the new thermostat is in and the plate is resecured in place.

The ( In 2) means that you need to have the computer scanned for fault codes . The scan will tell you what the problem in with your acceleration. It is best to have the scan done rather than guessing what the problem is. From my own experience one can spend alot of money needlessly guessing and changing parts that are actually OK.
( 96 Audi A4)

Not sure about Audis but it sounds like the security system has fuel injectors restricted and if so thats a dealership job to replace the BCM.

CHECK FOR BROKEN LOOSEN DRIVE BELT.IF DRIVE BELT BROKEN YOU WILL LOSE POWER STEERING, WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR STOP TURNING IF LOSE DRIVE BELT. IF DRIVE BELT BROKEN.CHECK FOR FAULTY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER.LOOK FOR SEIZED WATER PUMP, ALTERNATOR OR POWER STEERING PUMP.REASONS DRIVE BELT BREAKS.

A4 Sedan or Quattro Sedan....L4-1.8L Turbo (AEB), V6-2.8L (ACK) or V6-2.8L (AFC)????