Top 20 1997 Audi A4 Questions & Answers

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to buy them from, and they sold online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

Hi Check your battery terminals and make sure there not loose it sounds like a bad earth to me Hope this helps Nick

faulty fuel level sender unit

It is relearning. Try driving it as normal and all the perimeters should reset.

needs a new blower motor ,brushes worn by the sound of it

This means your VSS, vehicle speed sensor is not sending voltage to the computer. Speed sensors must maintain a specified gap between the magnet and the ring. It is possible that the magnet is dirty or the wire is damaged, or the plug is dirty or loose. If its none of the mentioned then a bad wheel bearing will cause your speed sensor to fail. To check if it's the wheel bearing, jack the front wheels off the ground. Make sure to block the rear tires to prevent it from rolling. Grab your front tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions and try as hard as you can to wiggle the tire. If your tire has any movement in and out, then you must replace your wheel bearings. The speed sensor is built into the hub.

Mark, do you have a second Key you can try, other wise it may be a trip to some tech. that can rest security. A4 immobiliser problem Audifans net Audi A4 2003 Starting up Then dying off problem AudiForums com Uh HELP Electronic immobilizer needs resetting AudiWorld Forums A4 immobiliser problem

Sounds like it's in Limp Mode.
Does the dash gear display flash, or is it highlighted different to normal?
In Limp mode it will run in 3rd gear only in an attempt to minimise any damage.
You need to get it to a transmission specialist straight away.
May be as simple as low fluid, but you need to find out.

Check your service documents! Contact Audi main dealer....they should have records!

Starter solenoids are typically located right on top of the starter.

It depends which engine you have. On V6's it is on the right hand side at the bottom rear of the engine. You will need to remove the alternator and possibly the right hand engine mount to give yourself enough room to remove it. Removal of the alternator requires the radiator support to be in the service position.

Line up the timing marks starting with the crankshaft pulley. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the marks line up. - See more at: http://www.happywrenching.com/a4/audi-a4-b5-28l-v6-timing-belt-replacement-removal-and-installation.html#sthash.FZPABPk1.dpuf

In general you drain the transmission fluid from the pan, drop the transmission pan and filter, then the solenoids are readily visible and accessible. Disconnect the wiring harness on the solenoid and the fastener/lock on the solenoid and remove it. Worst case you may have to disconnect the solenoid wiring harness and drop the valve body. I've found audiworld a great source of information. Get a Bentley manual for your car.

Locksmith, 150 bux (vin#, id, and proof of ownership required) at the dealer or find a nice police officer with a slim jim I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

I'm assuming for now that these are two separate problems: 1. Overheating and emptying expansion tank. 2. Leak into front passenger footwell. Solution to 1. is likely to be a crack in the expansion tank. This happens often with these tanks. Look under the cap and you'll find two necks. The narrow one is the pressure tube that the lid seals in to. Check the narrow neck for any cracks and check the pressure cap o-ring for condition. Replace both if suspect. They're cheap from FCP Euro or ECS tuning. The wider neck is the overflow. This drains into a small tube under the lid area of the tank. You could connect a hose to this if you were so inclined, but it normally it just drains into the engine bay (onto the left hand exhaust manifold normally on V6's!). If yours is losing the coolant from here its a classic sign of a cracked filler neck. Make sure the cooling system gets bled properly as well - top bleeder is the right hand heater hose (factory hose if still on the car will have a hole marked by a white circle - pull the hose off the heater core connection tube to expose this hole to the coolant, undo and raise the expansion tank above the heater hose level to bleed). On V6's the lower bleed is on the engine cross flow pipe on the rear of the engine on the opposite end to the engine temp sensor - 6mm allen key undoes from memory. Not sure where lower bleed is on 4 cyl models - possibly the coolant pipe in the vicinity of the inlet manifold. The other possibility for 1. is a failed cylinder head gasket, but I'd be suspecting the expansion tnk ahead of this. Seek professional help if the expansion tank isn't the issue. 2. I would suggest is a blocked plenum chamber drain. You can check by pouring some water down the windscreen with the bonnet (hood) open and seeing if the plenum area fills up without draining or draining slowly. Main drain is in the middle I think and It gets clogged by leaves and debris. Cleaning is difficult, but you can try a shop vac with some heater hose taped to the nozzle to try and get in there, or some compressed air with an air gun or something to try and blow it through. Search something like "Audi B5 plenum drains" on Google and you may find some other suggestions. 2. may also be blocked HVAC drains for the airconditioning...

Damage to the cylinder heads and leaking head gaskets. Possible damage to cylinder wall and pistons. It really depends on how hot it got and how long it was driven.

IF IT IS POSSIBLE FOR U CHECK FOR STORED DTCS AT THE GEARBOX ECU.THE LIGHTS OF THE INDICATOR ARE FLASHING AND IF SO WHAT IS THE FREQUENSY?SOME PHOTOS WOULD REALLY HELP!!!

it keeps the camshaft and crankshaft and the valves working together so that the engine will fire in order to cause in to run smooth.

It sounds like your battery went low while you were replacing the window regulator with the door open and the dome light was probably on draining the battery. I would check the battery voltage with a volt meter to see if it has 12 volts in it. You might have to jump start the vehicle and let it run for 30 minutes or so to recharge the battery. I hope this helps you.

That is the oil cooler. Remove the oil filter. That exposes a large 'nut'. Remove the nut (and the 2 lines going in/out) and replace the oil gasket/O ring. If original oil cooler is dent or damaged, replace cooler as well. Could also just come from the lines going in and out of the cooler (put new hose clamps on).