20 Most Recent 1989 Plymouth Sundance - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It may be needing a tune up and maybe a new battery ... See your mechanic concerning these two items.

Thanks fo ryour visit today.

This can be the transmission mode switch (on the side of the trans), or worn clutches or bands. There can also be trash in the valve body or a stuck solenoid. Your best bet is to bring it to a transmission shop for the free diagnosis. Good luck!

Thanks for the vote.

spend 20 dollars and get yourself a repair manual on ebay before you take a wrench to it. it is pre 90s passenger airbag so you should be able to do it yourself with enough time. do a search on youtube, lots of car videos there.

Could be water in the fuel causing icing up in throttle system. Try running some heet in the fuel tank.

Hope this helps.

1989 Plymouth Sundance Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram.
Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Back Strap
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Orange/White
Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4?
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple/Yellow
Rear Speakers Size: 5? x 7?
Rear Speakers Location: Side Shelves
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Blue/White

Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with the Timing Marks.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1989/make/plymouth/model/sundance/1989_plymouth_sundance_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

please be more clear...radio won't turn on? or radiator? tell me more please

Not sure if this is "all" of your problem, but you definately have a defective switch because of the fact that you can wiggle the switch and make the blinker work. Replace the switch and see where that leaves you. It may cure all your woes. Good Luck. I hope this is helpful!

seat belts have a lock mechanism inside that react with fast momentum forward. what this means is; if you **** it quickly it should catch. if you stopped suddenly the person wearing the belt should not be able to extend the belt. if you can, replace the seat belt assemblies.

It just takes a matter of minutes. Locate the tensioner. Use a tool yo loosen it enough to slip the belt off. You will then have enough slack to remove and replace it. Keep your fingers out from under it while the tensioner is held back against the spring. You can find the tensioner by pulling on the belt. The plly that gives is the tensioner. You do not need to remove any bolts, just look at it closely and you will see where a tool could be used. Make sure yhe belt is on atraight and properly seated before releasing the tensioner and starting the engine ir you will ruin the belt. Make note of the belt routing if a diagram is not on the top of the radiator. Good Luck_Ned_

There's several variants of the engine.

There's a 2.2L Inline 4 which came in turbo and non-turbo
There's a 2.5L Inline 4 which came in turbo and non-turbo
There's also a 3.0L V6 as well

But since you asked for the 4 Cylinder, it will either be 2.2L or 2.5L non turbo

The code 11 is referring to your coil pickup.This is located under the distributor cap and rotor,and is held in by the distributor cap itself.Being electrical when it gets hot the sensor brakes down .The pickup is not very expensive at all:)

check fuses

sounds like a fuel problem, fuel filter clogged, or low pressure on fuel pump.

Without taking the ignition apart, you will really have to do some work, what you might want to do is get in the passenger side, grab the key with a good set of pliers, and get some leverage. If you grab, move the key back and forth while jiggling the wheel, the lock should come loose and the key should slide out. Be careful not to turn the key too far, because then you'll break it off, hope that works.

I assume by tri axle you mean driveshafts. If the driveshafts are still in then you need to remove them both. Unbolt them from the steering knuckles ( unbolt the ball joint, axle nut, sway bar assy ) move the knuckle assy out of the way and then the axles should pry out at the tranmission end ( screw driver between axle end and trans housing should do the trick). Hope this helps.

You need a timing belt

first.... open the hood... yes the hood.... look on the firewall... you will see two rubber hoses going into it... that is where the heater core is located... generally it's on the passenger side but sometimes ..... in my dad's van for one it's mounted in the center... dodge's better idea i guess. while you are under the hood .. examine the hose connectors.... if they are hose clamps easy... if they are special connectors you will have to visit autozone or canadian tire or auto parts store to borrow the tool.... usually have to leave a deposit....
now... climb under the dash on the passenger side and look up... if there are sheilds to remove them... you will need to do that... i often remove the glove box to give me even better access and to see better what i'm doing.
the duct work is often held together by screws or clips. make sure you remove all the ones necessary ... front and back... it's usually a split shell so you only need to lower the one half......... pull the duct work carefull away from the heater core ... look for bolts hold it on ... usually again on the outside by the firewall... before take the bolts out use the tool to remove the hoses. you did drain some antifreeze first right ? .... it's tough to get all the water out so before you pull old core out either be fast about it so you don't spill antifreeze into the car... or tilt it up to drain some fluid out on the outside first.

remove the old core... install the new one... bolt it on... reinstall the duct work.... clean up... reinstall the hoses... refill the rad and leave the cap off when you start it up to add more fluid....

almost done... pinch the hoses gently when the motor is warm to move the air out of the system.... after you install the rad cap... take it for a drive.... when you get back wait till the rad is cool again and take off the cap... fill the rad up again... repeat that a few times to compensate for air bleeding out of the new core...

Robert

P.S. i did a heater core on a 69 dart i used to own.... basic car no options... took me fifteen minutes lol