Does it smell funny? Like antifreeze? if so it is from your heater. If not is it winter where you are? Snow perhaps, if not then look for a leak in the roof or a rotted floor pan.
When you say that the first master cylinder had no pedal, did that just suddenly happen?
A master cylinder has rubber seals inside - think of a bicycle pump - when the bicycle pump seal wears it becomes difficult to pressurise it. The same is true of a master cylinder.
A classic sign of a master cylinder with worn or perished seals is that it needs pumping a few times to pressurise but there is no leakage of brake fluid.
Prior to you changing the master cylinder had the level of the brake fluid dropped .. indicating a leak somewhere? Had you done any work on the brake pads/rotors?
Eliminate other causes of air getting into the braking system:
First thing to do is check the flexible brake hoses on each wheel. Get a friend to pump - and hold - the brake pedal while you inspect the flexible hoses. Check for leaks (obviously) but also look to see if each flexible hose 'bulges' anywhere along its length.
Also check each flexible hose to see if it is perished or wet with fluid.
A perished flexible hose can draw in air and cause no pedal/spongy pedal. The same is true with a flexible hose that bulges/balloons when under pressure.
It only takes a slight 'weeping' from a flexi hose or rigid pipe connection to allow air into the system. Check the rigid brake pipes too - especially where there is a connector/join.
Then remove the road wheels and look for the slightest fluid leak around caliper pistons.
The problem, I think, comes back to the original fault .. no pedal when your car had sat overnight. This is rather indicative of air getting into the system somewhere though not necessarily from the master cylinder.
Check for the slightest leak in the entire braking system. It only takes a small amount of air to get in and cause problems. The fact that you fitted a second master cylinder makes me think the problem could lie elsewhere.
Try bleeding the braking system. It's a 2 man job, but quite easy.
Here's a link that explains how to do it:
How to Bleed Your Brakes
Good luck!
Check the ignition timing is correct. I see that you have changed the wires so I suggest that you recheck the firing order for the plugs as it is easy to get it wrong when replacing the leads.
Sources for your answer: 1) A Plymouth/Dodge/Chrysler dealer.
2) Any transmission shop. 3) Your owners manual.
If you have none of those, what I would do is add 3 quarts to your empty transmission pan, then start the car and let it warm up, without moving the shift lever from Park.
After it is warmed up, (about 5 minutes), check the fluid on the dipstick, and add half a quart at a time until it reads full.
I should guess it will be taking about 4 quarts.
God bless your efforts.
If I remember correctly the wires must be clipped into the distributer cap. Possibly this was not done or the old wires were reused and damaged while removing. The wire end needs to be squeezed together with pliers to remove. The wire ends pushed down into the cap is what the rotor contacts with and makes for spark to spark plugs. Make sure wires are in proper firing order which would be 1-3-4-2 with engine cylinder left to right 1-2-3-4. So go back into your engine compartment and double check what was done, I think you will find your problem. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.
a timing belt problem would affect how the car runs anytime and all the time. check for fuel pressure and possible injector problem like a dirty injector that is not allow all the fuel to enter the cylinder because its very dirty.
if you have too much free play the rack & pinion steering maybe worn out and needs to be replaced as there is no adjustment on these like the older cars. you should check the rag joint as it could be worn. its located at the bottom of the steering colume were it connects to the rack & pinion steering. it looks like a small U joint.
located under dash to left of the steering colume. note there are 2 flasher relays one for the emergency flashers and the other is the signal flasher. to know which one is the signal one turn on the emergency lights and look for the flasher the one that is clicking is the e-flasher. the signal flasher looks the same locate it and replace.
you said your getting fuel if you check the fuel pressure and it's okay, you should check your injectors next, if not that get put it on machine for diagnostic test then repair accordingly
you will have to raise the rear of the car then undo the fuel lines,electrical wires, vent line and the gas tank straps supporting the tank you will have to support the tank before undoing the straps, then lower the tank until you can remove the fuel tank lock ring and remove the fuel pump assembly, note that some had and extra fuel line connected to the pump assembly inside the tank and you will have to pull the pump assembly so far until you can disconnect this line. assembly in reverse order. also replace the fuel filter if its been a while.
Possibly a fuel issue, but have the pressure checked before condemning the pump. Is the gas filter good? And the air filter?It could be an idling issue-idle too low. Check if can be raised, or if idle control motor or valve needs service. Idle should be around 750 rpm, in drive gear, maybe a bit lower, not below 650 rpm, though.