20 Most Recent
1999 Mercury Mystique - Page 7 Questions & Answers
Blower motor not working
Have you looked into any possibilities yet?
First check the fuse(s). Check to see if the wires are all pluged in. If thier good; you may need to test both of the dashboard switches. There is also a blower-motor resistor; but usually that causes it to opperate at full speed whenever it's on. But I would assume it's possible that it could cause complete failure.
On mine, I found that sometimes it would work, so I knew it wasn't the motor itself. After much confusion, tests, frustrations, etc... I happened to kick the foot rest pannel to the left of the brake pedal, and it turned on. As it turns out, under the carpet I found the culprit. An obscure ground(?) wire that needed fixing.
On a side note: I rolled the car before I ever had a chance to fix it.... But I'm sure that's what it was.
Good luck!
Alex
My fan for my heat
There is a switch on the control console that
activates the heater door control. The door control is located behind
the glove box. (You have to remove the glove box to get to it) If the
switch on the console is bad, or the door control is bad, the door may
not be opening to allow the blower to blow through the heater core and
into the cab. I would think that if the core were plugged or coolant
wasn't allowed through it, it would cause the car to overheat. its called a blend door it turns different ways door can stick causeing no heat
How do you set ignition timing?
You should not have to set it. Your car has a "Hall Effect" system where the computer hunts for the best engine timing and advances it or retards it as needed. This allows you to use cheaper fuel without detonation or preignition, but at the expense of some performance.
There is an initial timing at the factory or after rebuilding, and that should be on the EPA sticker under the hood. If not, go to the public library and ask for the manual on it. My library orders me manuals from around the state, in addition to all of the Haynes and Chiltons manuals that I use.
Removing the fuel tank, the plastic clip or clamp
go to a dealer and ask the parts guy to show you the illustrated parts breakdown of the gas tank on your car. it will be on a screen and he can print it out for you. then you will have the name, the part number and the cost. this is most likely not a parts store item, something you can get from only a ford or mercury dealer or used out of a junk yard.
How do i adjust the drum brakes in so i can remove
Look on the inside of the brake plateat the bottem there is a rubber plug remove it In side there is a part called a stsr wheel Take a stright head screw driver turn this wheel so it lossens One of them turns right handed and the other turns left handed depending on witch side of the vehicle your on so make sure you lossen This will release the force thatthe shoes are putting on the drums and the drums will slide off with no restiance at all
How hard to remove a
YOU HAVE TO REMOVE TIMING BELT.NOT A HARD JOB BUT YOU NEED A REPAIR MANUAL TO LOOK AT TIMING BELT TIMING MARKS LOCATION ON CAMSHAFTS CHAIN SPROCKETS AND CRANKSHAFT GEAR TIMING MARKS.
So I have a 99 mercury mystique gs, cars running
I would flush the radiator and replace the thermostat, and then see if the problem persists. if it does then I would look at thermostat sensor and possibly the water pump. Hope this helps Tim
How to change the spark plugs on a V6 Mystique
The procedure to replace spark plug on 1999 mercury v6 mystique is as follows:--
There are 3 things that get in the way of the plugs -
- The plastic cover piece on the front - three 7 or 8mm bolts to remove ..
- The box underneath that cover - 4 8mm bolts .
- The coil-pack - this one can be left in place, but for the effort to remove the 4 7mm bolts, it was well worth in my book. Having it loose also made it a bit easier to replace the plug wires
Tips:
use a 3/4" plug socket on a 6" extension
put a piece of duct tape around the socket extension / socket joint to keep them together.
Use silicone / Di-electric grease on the plugs and both ends of the wires.
A bit of anti-seize on the plug threads won't hurt either
Don't over-torque the plugs - don't remember exactly what the torque specification is, but it's lower than I would have thought - snug them in tight, but don't "crank" them down hard .
Do the plugs one-at-a-time! Helps prevent getting the firing order messed up.
Plug gap: .054.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution
and show your appreciation.
Not finding what you are looking for?