2005 Suzuki Reno - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

T.p.s sensor problem..

Bad alternator dude

What two sensors? When a battery is disconnected and replaced, the car needs to start and stay at idle for about 20 minutes to relearn the timing etc...only then should it be taken for another 20 minutes of normal driving on road and highway at normal speeds...this should fix the issues. Start by disconnecting and reconnect the battery leads...turn to start position without starting...leave 2minutes, turn off..wait, turn on and fully start.... leave idling awhile as above...

Sam the A/T trans in all cars is the most complex of all I know it seems simple until it breaks. or until actual fix one. tell us with the trans does good and bad in ALL GEARS slips or flairs skips gears will not up shift to gear ? name gear will not down shift, same. noises odd. or vibrations. will no move. car at all get it serviced check level using operator guide method do not guess. check fuse scan it yet

I just love terse questions like this. (push reset in the scan tool) Speed Sensitive Power Steering System Description goggle much? the operators manual told you what. it says get the car serviced, the magic SspS is failing and need to be scanned now.

lots! (can talk this all day) (a/t are no simple) find a smarter shop! going to a transmission shop they go , gee, that is all we know here, swaps (or rebuilds only) AAMCO? first stop is: try a real ASE mechanic that can do the many tests on car. called ON CAR tests, in the FSM all my answers are for usa, cars,if not ignore all my posts. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx $4 and is ReAL, not fake or cloned' goggle find my ASE shop, BINGO. type zip bingo2. 700 means tranny errors, any. (ignore 734 ( serious) check levels yet, per above method(link?) step by step? check fuses just in case. oddly this car has a separate TCM tranny brain, that drives 6 solenoids inside the box. most suzuki a/t there is a secret( in fsm on all that do) manual test mode. on most you un plug TCM connector and drive to see if 4th gear really does slip, my guess is yes. if yes slips, its bad trans, of no slip bad solenoid. watch out manual mode can skip gears, #2 or 3, so test only 4. replace the valve body, we do on regular trans, not sure if that works on this transaxle type? (i dont have the book on this box) in my shop i can hot wire solenoid(before retired) this proves not TCM and is in the box then i check solenoid coil ohms. 10 ok , 0 bad infinity bad. 10 can be 20 , idont know, the book above tells coil spec. the soleniods can be bench tested. but takes a real ASE MECH, NOT AFRAID TO DO ALL FSM CHECKS ON CAR. FACT. fsm quote Trouble Code: P0734 (2.0L L4 VIN - Auto) 4thGearr Incorrect Ratio (or slips) Number of Trips to Set Code: 1 Trouble Code Conditions: TCM detects any inconsistency in the actual gear ratio. Possible Causes: Input clutch solenoid valve Front brake solenoid valve Direct clutch solenoid valve High and low reverse clutch solenoid valve Each clutch Hydraulic control circuit

look at both sides of engine. one side has a starter. (all engines) if not on front, side, that means it other. exhaust side or intake, side, look both? 2.0L sold gas and diesel , ill toss coin, lands on gas. 2.0 L Family II I4 (petrol) GM engine. L34 ! Daewoo X20SED 2.0 L RA 420 I4 (diesel) all this is on alldata.com or the 4 buck suzuki page https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx gas is twin cam belt drive The L34 also known as the U20SED is a 2.0 L so lets use real names for engines, (daewoo/gm mixed up) L34 one way to see parts, on and engine, is pretend to buy one used bingo? see cam belt.see intake side, bingo>? see stater hole there????? gapping wide. Easter egg hunts,did you know you are not helpless.the dealer pages show all parts http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/2005/Suzuki/Reno/?siteid=214820&searchText=and alldata.com it there too.and the real FSM , is there too... posted 100s of times.$4 to look. best deal of any car maker....https://suzukipitstopplus.com/and suzuki is chapter 11 here, so sell it.?if in USA./ sell it. I would.

The port in the larger of the 2 AC lines from the compressor is the port you charge at.

nice double ANON post. backup one post and read. it was answered.

why not RTM for 4 bucks https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx such a deal huh?

depends on location, like all things made. also on , new, used, and rebuilts. i get mine from CARDONE. in usa, about $400 exchanged (avg)

drain parked or drains moving, you need to post that. its got phantom drain. easy to find with any cheap meter. got meter? my guess parked. all ways are here, everyone. http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html and toolls to find it, and techniques.

1: WOT flooding trick cuts all fuel , for cleairng floods acts/ does mean a wild guess or test. a test would be to look at spark tips and seeing dry or soaked in fuel check all sparks ,post which engine you have. 2: 10% throttle starts implies the IAC/ISC is stuck closed or injection rates are horrible. there are many tests for that. ask give it a tune up. and then check for leaking injectors. if still bad. or dead injectors. we can do lots of tests. engine, spark and fueling , in that order is best.

a tune up. did you do the service on the car. filters, spark plugs? did scan it, to see what DTC errors are set? that is required. and 02 sensor can die at 100,000 miles the design life span. "bosch" which engine, option. 1.4 L I4 (petrol) 1.6 L I4 (petrol) 1.8 L I4 (petrol) 2.0 L I4 (petrol) 2.0 L I4 (diesel) we can not help you , unless. engine is stated and country. www, the world wide web, make it so we can NOT guess any of that. the ECU/PCM on your car goes to GREAT efforts to prevent stalls. the top reason for stalls are: 1: never doing the service per listed items in the glove box guide. 2: EGR stuck open. (if your's has one, some dont) 3: lean air fuel mixture, (lots or reasons and tests) 4 gross rich air fuel mixture casing gross misfiring and stalling. or something worse. there is always that. eg: burned head valves. etc.

a used engine may be the way to go. call junk yard or look on ebay for one. u can also just get a used engine head instead of redoing yours it would be a lot cheeper. I think 1500 is to much just for parts for a 2005 car

Test your old egr valve--then install a new one. If it is a vacuum only,you use a vacuum gauge (off motor) If it is electronic throw it away Either way it's time for a new one You can have a shop look at scan tool data if that is avail

find as in where to buy>? find as in where is it on car.? (i bet its ok) why not post the symptoms....????? is this a dash gauge overheated , or under heat, reason? this car has no dash guage sensor. (dedicated) the 2005 , the dash guage, gets its temperature from the ECU and the ECU gets that from the ECT sensor so scan the ECU with any $9 scan tool (barrow one, may autostore loan them, do so) then scan it, is temp at 180F or more holding? yes,/no if yes, its NOT the ECT, post symptoms.... when you scan the PCM, it has ECT parameter PID, look at that. and see what it is , it will not lie. its very reliable. his is the plot of own warming up. this graph is of a G16, that is a bad thermostat, its bad and very very slow... double bad. blue line.... the numbers here are dead accurate. http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/TP-MAF-VSS-ECT-FUEL.JPG using a scan tool ends most guessing. this is not a code reader (near useless) but a real scan tool

It is the zenor diode in the alternator that has gone open circuit and back feeding the ignition, need to have the alternator repaired, may be cheaper just to replace. If you disconnect the thin wire (LT wire) on the back of the alternator it will switch the light off and stop your battery going flat, but that will stop the alternator from charging unless you connect it again when you use the vehicle

Check owners manual for location of fuses, usually left side, side or under of dash, under hood depending on make of veh

if the key is out, and turned off, is key in off posistion (look) if off and you have current drain, that is a problem. your post is confusing, (car wont turn off, what does that mean) engine stays running, or just lamps stick one, be clear what sticks on, and we can fix this easy. im a retired, ET, we can do this step by step. if the engine stick on , key off, the ignition switch is bad. period. and grossly unsafe condition ,if ever.