20 Most Recent 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager - Page 3 Questions & Answers

jack up vehicle, remove tire, Beat on broken lug till it falls out- install new lugnut (will be pressure fit) replace tire and tighten nut....make sure you tighten it 2 times at first then after 50 miles check it again.

Inside fuel tank, and on top where fuel lines attach.

My 1997 Plymouth Voyager with 40,000 miles on started to overheat and air was not on. Coolant level was perfect. Car hasn't been driven in 6 months, maybe that is why.

The first thing I needed to do was to identify my transmission. The 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport (3.3 L) has the A604 transmission, as did any Caravan from 1989 to 2006. Might as well replace both sensor and will take less then 30 min from start to finish.

Vehicle's with A604 transmissions have chronic input and output speed sensor problems and also with the little wire connectors to those input and output speed sensors. The dealer offers a repair kit for these wires instead of buying a whole new wire harness. On most of these vehicles, If you have a code 41-44 you should check for weak battery voltage first. now the shop needs to check the wiring for poor grounds. I have seen that The transmission controller often goes bad causing these same codes, so be careful.

Parts/Tool List:
10mm socket (to remove top of air intake)
1" socket (to remove/tighten sensors)
standard screwdriver (to loosen hose clamps)
Vehicle Speed Sensor - INPUT
Vehicle Speed Sensor - OUTPUT

Removal/Installation:
The first step is to remove the airbox cover. This can be removed with a 10mm socket. Under the airbox cover is the actual airbox; remove the filter by unsnapping the clamps holding the lid in place. Maybe this is a good time to see if your filter needs to be replaced.

Once you've got the airbox cover and filter off, you should be able to see where the sensors are located on the transmission. On the left is the input sensor behind the Transmission Solenoid pack by the transmission dip stick tube , and on the right is the output sensor.

The input sensor is located just under two little hoses; remove the clamps and get those houses of the way. Make sure that you keep track of which hose goes on the left and which one goes on the right. To remove the sensor connector, there's a tab that lifts up, probably under the sensor. It lifts very easily, and the connector slides right off. If it's not coming right off, you haven't properly lifted the tab.

To remove the sensor, you need a 1" socket which should fit right over the terminal. The socket should also be large enough to clear the hose nipples. Note that with both of these sensors, the base is plastic. If you use anything other than a 1" socket, you'll rip the plastic to shreds and never be able to get the sensor off. USE the socket.

In most situation, the output sensor was covered in sludge, which may have been the source of the problem. Both the input and output sensors use some kind of magnetic receiving unit, and those magnets will pick up tiny metal shavings that are suspended in the transmission fluid. I suppose 10 years worth of buildup is enough to cause the sensor to throw bad signals. But maybe something on the inside caused the problem... so replacing it outright was the best decision.

Anyhow, after replacing the two sensors, the transmission problems 98% of the time will completely be resolved. No more weird cruise control issues, no more erratic speedometer, and no more 2-to-1 gear drops when coming to a stop. Problem solved. Good luck and merry xmass

Stop at one of the bigger autoparts stores and they usually will scan for trouble codes, free of charge. That code may point you in right direction. If not get back with that code.

check for fuel pressure with a gauge it should be around 35 lbs pressure. it may need a fuel pump assembly.

check fuses, if good then it could be a bad wiper switch or motor. check for powers and grounds at the motor with the switch turned on. a common problem is the wiper motor looses it`s ground. take a wire long enough to touch one end on the negative battery terminal and the other on the wiper motor, make sure you scratch the wiper motor down to the metal if it starts to work then you will have to supply an auxiliary ground wire to the motor. the other thing is the motor itself may have worn brushes. sometimes with the motor turn on and you tap it with a hammer and it starts to work then the motor will have be replaced.

All timing marks aligned and distributor rotor pointing at # 1 cylinder at TDC as it should? All that has been confirmed properly aligned? What engine?

On the Plymouth Grand Voyager the BCM is in the cabin. Look above the brake petal behind a wiring junction box. Check this out http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1d/bl654d.htm

Ouch, I would start by verifying you didn't miss setup your timing. It could be off by one or two sprocket locations or off by 180 deg. You might have to pull the #1 spark plug to verify that.

have it checked with a scanner if the fluid level is correct

u need it checked with a good scanner for codes. make sure the fluid level is proper. this should reveal problem

Look for a loose or bad sparkplug wire. Use gloves and be careful of belts and fan. Move or wiggle the sparkplug wires while someone keeps the van running. If you notice a difference in the way it runs you probably have a bad wire. If it's been more that a couple of years since you changed sparkplugs and wires you should do that anyway. Some gas treatment and oil treatment might help too. You can also borrow a tester from most auto parts stores to hook up to obd2 port and you may get some information on ignition problems or other errors that might help pinpoint the problem. Check and see if the catalytic converter is clogged. You might want to put in a new gas line filter too. Those are just the most common causes of rough running engines.