20 Most Recent 1993 Plymouth Colt Vista - Page 6 Questions & Answers

not really have no repair manual for them SORRY

I see a few things in the image, but nothing that looks like a 'nipple'. Water hose are terminated with a hose clip. The cheap ones a purely an overlapping spring with two bands. You squeeze them together and open it up an slip it over the pipe. They are terrible, but they are cheap. The other sort have two wire bands with a nut and bolt, they are a bit better. The best sort is a screw hose clip, called 'jubilee clips', or 'terry clips' in the UK. The fully clips the pipe and you can tighten them as much as you need. https://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/product/mild-steel/122/1a-ms-30mm/ What I do see in that image is a metal end plug. That looks to be connected to an aluminium casting. If that is leaking, you need some plumbers PTFE tape. Remove the plug, clean the threads, put 4 turns of the tape around the plug threads and screw it back in. It may have a fibre washer and you can get those as well. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.seawaypoolsntubs.com%2Fshop%2Fproduct%2Fttape ..

Age ;). But seriously, is car leaking or burning oil? Do you see any oil under car? Clean engine and try to locate when it comes from. There are many possibilities. From valve cover gasket to pinhole in oil pan or leaky seal on oil filter or drain plug.

Here is one; https://www.classiccarwiring.com/1950-plymouth-cars-color-wiring-diagram/

Cindy your switch could be bad as could be your blower motor. I would run a hot wire directly to the blower motor first. If it runs the switch us probably bad. If it doesn't run the blower motor is probably bad.
Those are the two easiest to check and the most common to go bad since the fuse is good. Hope this helps you. If you want you can let me know what you find.

Check this Repair Manual
It will help you to fix your car
https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1999-plymouth-voyager-workshop-service-repair-manual?_pos=3&_sid=f08dd4c59&_ss=r

Copy the link and paste in the browser

What is battery voltage with engine running? How long does it take to drain enough to prevent starting?

A 1990 Plymouth will likely not have parasitic power requirements. With ignition in off position the battery current should be zero (0.00 amps).

So using a current probe or shunt, with ignition switch in the off position, systematically remove fuses to identify the circuit draining the battery. Likely you'll find some after market add on (radio etc.) that is not installed properly.

Comment here with results and someone will assist further.

There are many reasons why an engine should spit back through the carb. I once encountered a Ford that had a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft so the valve was barely opening - the engine ran very well until the throttle was opened. It is still a huge mystery how the owner had managed to drive it to my workshop. The most common reason is a lean air/fuel mixture caused by one or more carb jets being blocked. A thorough carb clean is a sizeable task that shouldn't be undertaken lightly and it is best practice to tackle it last after ensuring everything else is as the manufacturer intended it to be - from spark plugs and spark power/quality, timing, valve operation, fuel delivery quantity and pressure, etc., etc.

Oxygen and Acetylene is ideal but MAP GAS or Propane can be used. They just take longer to get red. Getting the part hot will expand the metal but turning the threaded area red will dissolve rust build up. Don't try to spin the part immediately. With two pairs of large pipe wrenches or two large vice grips. Rock the threads back and forth repeatedly. 6-8x will usually work the rust away and allow the tie rod to be spun off. Cranking and turning the tie rod in one direction sometimes causes the rust to build up and seize the threads again. Because of tolerances you may need to wait for the part to cool down before the threads will start to move. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

Check Idle Air Control solenoid.

You should have fuses for them and probably relay for blower . Check fuses, relay and check for power to your equipment. Check the bulb, power to and ground at the bulb. Check fuse to radio and power to radio. Check blower relay and fuse if it has one and power at blower. Did all this go out at the same time. If they did was some work going on which could have created wiring or short in wiring issues. The link below is for a 98 but some of it may be the same. If you have question about which fuse check them all but if you pull them out do one at a time. Try running the blower motor in all setting, sometimes the resistor will go out and the blower may only work in the highest setting. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t16702_ds678813

You are getting a fault message from the PCM that the wrong ignition key was used. This is part of the vehicle's onboard security system. This is part of the immobilizer system.

Replace socket

Identify your transmission by its gasket from this site. https://www.carid.com/1996-plymouth-grand-voyager-transmission-parts/

1. Use a turkey baser to remove all the fluid from the reservoir. It's likely empty already if you did rear lines. Also, pack rags under the reservoir to catch spills. 2. Use a brake line wrench to crack the bleeder valve. (not OPEN, just see if it moves) Attach a 2' pc of surgical tubing to the bleeder. Run it into a jar. Pour 1" of fluid into the jar. I like to duct tape the jar to a board to prevent spills. Tape the tubing to the jar too. 3. Have a buddy sit in the driver seat. Have them tap-tap and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. (you don't have to KILL it) When they say "K!", you open the bleeder. Note the passage of air bubbles and fluid into the tube. After about 4 seconds, close the bleeder and repeat. The first wheel will take a WHILE. Each after will be a bit quicker. Watch the accumulation and quality of fluid in the jar for a clue as to how you are progressing. 4. Top off the reservoir and repeat for the next wheel. Bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF (generally. some cars vary). The pumper buddy must know NOT to drive the pedal past the normal distance or else he'll damage the master cylinder and it will have to be replaced. Also, he must know NOT to lift his foot before you close the bleeder, else he'll draw air back into the system. Just keep steady pressure. He'll feel the pedal drop as you open the bleeder each time. Takes PATIENCE. They sell vacuum bleeders, but they suck. They're cheap tho. They sell pressure bleeders and they are GOOD if you can find one to fit your car. They're expensive tho, like $60. MOTIVE makes one (I have it). These work by pressurizing the reservoir. That way you can bleed without a buddy. There's two methods with these. You can pour the fresh fluid into the pump and do the whole car without stopping. I find it messy. I like to top off the res and pressurize each wheel. MUCH cleaner. Both systems work fine tho. TomJV

Google Image the schematics and it will show you where it is

Traditionally the hazard switch is where the direction indicators are switched from the indicator stalk switch and ignition switched supply to battery supplied hazard lights. By 1996 these functions were rapidly being computerised so taking things for granted is definitely unwise. I strongly suggest you obtain a wiring diagram before getting too involved...

stuck relay wire short