The ideal idle RPM (revolutions per minute) for a 1990 Plymouth Acclaim V6 LX with an automatic transmission can vary slightly depending on factors like engine condition and specific adjustments. However, a common range for idle RPM is around 600 to 800 RPM when the car is in gear and stopped. It's always best to consult the vehicle's manual or reach out to a qualified mechanic for precise information tailored to your car's specifications.
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
As far as setting the points, they are to be set when the points are at the highest point on one of the cam lobes, does not matter which one.
As far as the distributor, the rotor only has to point to the plug on the compression stroke, not the exhuast stroke.
The zero mark on the front balancer is for timing the engine for number one cylinder only
If your 1997 Plymouth Breeze 2.0 is not starting and there's no spark, it is likely due to an issue with the ignition system. Here are some possible causes and solutions:
1. Faulty ignition coil: The ignition coil is responsible for supplying spark to the spark plugs. If it's faulty, there will be no spark. A mechanic can test the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.
2. Bad spark plugs: Worn or faulty spark plugs can also prevent the engine from starting. Check the spark plugs for any signs of wear or damage and replace them if needed.
3. Failed crankshaft position sensor: The crankshaft position sensor is responsible for providing the ECU with information about the position of the crankshaft. If it fails, the ECU won't be able to send a signal to the ignition coil to fire. Check the sensor and replace if necessary.
4. Failed ignition switch: If the ignition switch fails, the ECU won't receive the signal to send power to the ignition coil, and there will be no spark. A mechanic can check the ignition switch and replace it if needed.
I suggest taking your car to a qualified mechanic to properly diagnose and fix the issue.
Try the silly, obvious stuff first. Make sure the port on the vehicle is clean and not damaged. Also check the connector and cable for the scanner are not damaged. When you plug it in make sure the connector is all the way in. I had a vehicle where the cable connector was a very tight fit so it didn't connect fully to the OBD2 port.
It was 1996 when OBD2 was made a legal requirement so your vehicle should be OBD2 compatible. If you have access to another scanner try that one. This is to check if it is the tool or the vehicle causing the message. If the second scanner doesn't work it's an issue with the vehicle. If it does work the first scanner needs to be checked.
GV = Grand Voyager, sure, 3.3L sure V6 , the baby brother to my Jeep V6, 3.8L
Heads up the car has computer brain cluster. CCD bus networked
The speedo only works if the cluster tells it the live data from PCM
or fuses top cluster not blown (JB Fuse 2 not blown) or tranny VSS sensor is dead. (veh,speed, sensor) sorry no VSS ever killed any engine,!speed is MPH. live.
the car is old, and most cars that old have lots of hard failures
and were ignored, until the day of TOO MANY HAPPEN.
like the the adage, "the straw that broke the camels back" relived.
first off , my answers are USA only, except above.
1996 is the EPA year of new OBD2 PCM the runs the engine.
that means any scan tool here ,EVER MADE, works here.
16pin under dash OBD2 DLC jack
check all fuse first. cab and engine bay, all means ALL.
there are 50- causes of cranks but no starts. or stalls
I will not go and list 50 bad parts, I will assuME you want to do tests. and will even buy tools (meters and gauges) to do so.????
most folks posting here only want guesses from the blind. sadly./
and to scan the PCM first (next after fuses checked) ok?
there are 3 game plans besides sell it dead.
1: do the tests
2: get shop to do it.
3: OR GUESS AND GO BROKE,
ONLY YOU KNOW YOUR GAME PLAN , AND NOT TOLD YET
In a real shop that loves his customers.
they will do the tests, and even do extra tests.
what if the tech run a full compression test and told you it fails.
or is near failing and will fain soon after he fixed that caused this engine dead now>>??? see how that works? He is your friend
(as in gee the repairs are over the value of the car now, dead)
$3700 running used and far less not. $1500?(econ 101 decisions)
Lets DO IT:
now the tests using tools. (100 years the same )
1: the compression test must pass over 150psi
the readings are done WOT, spark out and fully charged battery
wide open throttle , the readings are based 2 factors.
WOT wide open throttle or close. MUST HAVE AIR TO COMPRESS , the engine is and AIR PUMP.
varies,(engine good) by the CR of the engine, (compression ratio)
and the ALTITUDE, (if under 500 feet) we know what it reads for sure. a LEAK down test tool , is great too ,got shop Air?
I have all 3. and do both tools but on all DOHC engine I do only leak down. and off topic here.
so if that old engine (no miles told) is good??????
what comes next. if scan tool told you spark is dead it is.
we test spark on all 6 not just 1.
are the spark plus 27 years old "OOPS
and last if fueling test. did the scans show a shorted injector?
fuel pressure is tested and most cars this old the FPR is no god
fuel pressure regulator(oops in the tank at pump , sadly)
MOST PERSONS CRYING COMPRESSION TESTS ARE NO GOOD
NEVER EVER DID IT THE CORRECT WAY OR
DID NOT COMPENSATE FOR ALTITUDE IN DENVER. CO.
ASK HOW, DO KNOW HOW.
NO THE LEAK TEST AND THE COMPRESSION TEST WILL
NOT FIND A BAD CAM LOBE. 1/2 GONE. SORRY WILL NOT!
IF FINDS BAD RINGS AND VALVES BENT/STUCK/OR BURNED, OR STUCK AND WARPED HEADS. valve spring broken happens
THE CYLINDER TO CYLINDER EQUALITY TEST IS SUPER GOOD. AS THE SHOP MANUAL STATED!
checking fuel pressure to spec, is last .
now watch scotty do the tests. (hoping engine is good,he IS)
watch him, the tests are simple and if lucky ,bingo.
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg
my 3.8L does180 psi on all 6,near the same 90k on the clock
150 is good point ,,never 90.
we can not see you shift.
PRNDL , car will crank in N and P, both.
park lockout is safety feature.
all fuses good.
battery charged (under hood)'
brake lamps most work.
sure likeage can fail for sure. they told you the truth.
park lock out locks it in to park
and can not be shift out until brake applied and brakes glow. rear (brake fuse not blown)
then if did shift out of park and not lever is dead
that means the linkages is bad.\
NO it will start in Neutral. all cars do but the most rare of odd honda's
fly past neutral means cable is broke me but cant feel your shifter lever.
the shifter has 2 ends of linkages, top side and under car. to trans.
removing the PRNDL switch means engine can never crank again, P/N now dead.
my guess is this is cave man simple bad linkage.
a simple lever device, and link
Camshaft Position B - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
codes are OBDll and are available online free
Google P025
copy and paste
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0025-obd-ii-trouble-code-camshaft-position-b-timing-over-retarded-bank-2-by-jay-safford
NOT running! Even when in Park or Neutral there are parts of the transmission that are always moving. You need to check the level with the engine OFF and the transmission is Cold. That way all the fluid has settled to the bottom and gives you a more accurate reading. When the engine is running the fluid is moving around the transmission so it will give you a false 'Low' reading.
With the quality of today's fuel, I would not even attempt to run an engine that has sat for that long without thoroughly cleaning the entire fuel system. You will more than likely need a new pump, but that can be verified once the tank is down and the pump is out. The 20 amp fuse should just be in the interior fuse panel.
An engine will have an injector for each cylinder it has. So a four cylinder has four, a six cylinder has six and so on.
If it has been stood unused for that long the first issue could be the fuel. Fuel over time can go bad and leave a varnish like coating on the fuel system parts. Drain any fuel in the system and tank and SAFELY dispose of it then refill with fresh fuel.
What EXACTLY does it do when you crank it? Just winding and no attempt to fire is often a spark issue. Cranking and trying to start is probably a fuel supply issue.
A simple starting point is a basic service on the vehicle. Fresh spark plugs and a new air and fuel filter with the fresh fuel should make a difference. Only remove ONE plug lead at a time to avoid mixing them up and keeping the firing order correct.
Before removing the first spark plug crank the engine for 2 to 3 seconds. Then with the ignition key out remove the first spark plug and smell it. if the injector is working you should smell fuel. Refit spark plugs gently by hand and don't over tighten them to avoid stripping the threads out.
When cranking do it as lots of 2 to 3 second bursts as this doesn't flatten the battery as fast. It might take a few attempts cranking to pull the fresh fuel through to the injectors.
Use the comment button below if you need any more help.
