20 Most Recent 1986 Chrysler Fifth Avenue Questions & Answers

This says some do and some don't. Find the steering pump and follow the lines. https://www.napacanada.com/en/search?text=power%20steering%20reservoir&referer=v2 https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+Chrysler+Fifth+Avenue+power+steering+reservoir ..

Go to a car part auto store. They sell repair books on your make and model...If the books been open....Just look and leave..

Hi, those 80's vintage Chrysler vech elec. are a bit strange. Their are gew reasons for that. One is they use different pick up mods in the distributor. Some are magnetic pick up some led etc. It also dosent help you due to yhe age of your ride. What i reccomend as a interm solution is chk out some wrecking yards for a replacement. Then go online, do some research youll probly find an aftermarket replacement or a repair center to fic your original. Hope that helps

If you don't see any hole In the fire wall then check around the head housing, the air maybe coming from the heater compartment and not from outside.

the only one that a recharge kit will fit

If you jump a wire to a different wire and it powers on, that means the 1st wire has no power. You either have a broken wire or a blown fuse on the source for the 1st wire. check all fuses, some radios use 2 or even 3 separate power wires (1 for amp, 1 for controls/display, and sometymes a 3rd isolated out for clock and memory only). Make sure all power leads have power with KEY ON, and if any do not, trace the power circuit. Most common cause of no radio power is a fuse, and its not always the one marked RADIO. That one is often just the amp or the control display and is marked RADI because thats all it does, but the cigarette lighter or cluster fuse may also be needed to actually make it work.

Are u sure it's not your battery

Its right on the engine block

there should be a label underside of the hood showing this but as vehicle is a bit oldish may not still be there follow this link you should find yours there Repair Guides Vacuum Diagrams Vacuum Diagrams AutoZone com

You may need to trace down the main ground for the vehicle. Go from the negative battery post and follow that lead to where it is attached. Remove the bolt and clean the area and reattach. If you have a digital volt ohm meter put it into the ohms mode and see if you have resistance. Go from the unattached end of the neg. cable at the batter to any place on the motor or frame and see if you have resistance. If you do, remove the pos. cable and go from the battery end of cable to the fuse box junction and see if you have resistance. (Note: when in ohms mode, do not ever jumper where you have power. it can damage your meter) A quick check that works too is to take jumper cables and attach the black clamp of the cable to the negative battery, and then find a place on the motor or frame and attache the other black end. If nothing happens then you need to work the positive end. you may have a bad power lead to the fuse box or perhaps the connection in the fuse box is so badly corroded that it has disconnected. Hope this helps.

On a carbureted engine(the days of old) I had a method of my own which always seemed to do really well. Warm up the engine to operating temperature and make sure there is no operation of the automatic choke.This should mean that the choke flap in the top of carb is standing vertically offering no resistance to airflow. Hook up a tachometer if the car has'nt got one. Note the idle speed in PARK. Turn the fuel/air adjusting screw underneath carb's right or left sideI(NOT the idle speed set screw) IN and note the rpm as you do.If it raises a little,you are getting close. Go ahead and turn that screw in all the way and lightly seat it(count the turns in from the highest idle reading),then back it out to the highest reading.NOW turn it in slowly until you see the RPM drop slightly. Now back it out a little so you are at peak RPM again. REPEAT this with the other side's fuel/air screw. After you have gained this higher RPM (maybe), then set the idle speed control screw to desired RPM, and be sure to get in the car and while holding the brake,put the car in DRIVE to make sure the idle doesn't drop too low. don-ohio (:^)

Hi! This doesn't sound like a shorted wire, because a short would usually blow a fuse. Since you're having trouble with the starter, I'm thinking that the ignition switch needs replacement. Depending on the year/make/model, you may be able to change just the electrical part of the ignition switch.

Could be a computer problem but can't really tell from here. If you tap on the computer while the engine is running and the engine begins to run poorly that's a good clue.
Check your fuel pressure. It should be between 5 and 7 psi. If not the pump is bad.If you have a return line on the filter, try pinching it off. If it runs right, block the return and don't use it.
Also, with the engine off, Look down into the carburetor and move the throttle linkage. You should see a squirt of fuel. If not, the accelerator pump in the carb has gone bad and it needs a rebuild.
Spark can also play a big part in a problem like yours. Make sure the cap, rotor and wires are in good condition and that the coil is putting out a good spark. If the coil is weak the spark can't overcome engine compression and the engine will mis-fire. Check the distributor and make sure the rotor shaft does not wobble. if it does, Replace the distributor. Also check the egr valve. If it is leaking, it can also give you similar symptoms. Engine timing was TDC on those engines (I think) But, they like 4 degrees advanced better. (BTDC)