Did you have a manual with you to find the torque specs on the job you were preforming? If not your gasket job will be too tight in some areas or too loose in others!
Ohm meter is not a reliable test for an oxygen sensor, the output of which should be tested with a bar type digital voltmeter so the voltage pulses can clearly be seen.
In theory at least, the required idle speed is programmed into the management computer which should be maintained by varying the ignition timing and the idle air valve.
In the absence of other faults a failure to idle could indicate a faulty or sticking idle air valve.
It is wise to check for such things as intake air leaks and basic engine settings, breather system...
Considering the age, if nothing else is found it would be wise to suspect the injector spray patterns.
you are being lied to. easy fix.avoid this mechanic purchase a new bracket or get one much cheaper at a auto scrap yard (you must remove yourself) . you can go on youtube type in year,make and model/replace power steering bracket. you will see a step by step video to do it yourself. good luck.
got it, you in states, wife's car outside Continental USA.it's 3 way post, you to remote person, kinda matters no?at zero cash what to do.? you never said, how to fix a car with no cash, so, that matters too, (like 10x so)well,pull the HL fuses. in the day.at night put them back in0 buck fix.if they dont come on at all, bad fuses. or will cost money.the operators guide shows where the HL fuses are. head lights.
G16b engine , in USA>
owned 3, know them too well.
that is alternator shorted out , 1 of its 3 phase huge diodes.
60amps, im looking now.
at real esteem book.
sad but there are 4x 60amp fuses there.
an guess what THAT MATTERS BIG TIME
that tells me which branch on tree shorted
here ill do them all
80amp 1 alt shorted
60amp 4 ABS shorted
30amp 5 rad fan shorted
60amp 6 heater short, (HVAC heater blower)
60amp 3 IG , feed 33, feed 15 cab box. with 15amp fuse, (nah)
60amp 2 lamp. (huge )white -blk feed. all have small fues
but. tail light relay? shorted?
off hand if fuse 2,3,or 6 blows,
then the cab box has a huge nasty short to body
or someone was hacking there.
which one?
no trans mission stated
auto or stick shifted?
the auto has 3 specs. on fluid.
total rebuilt
drained
or new clutch and fill.
my wild guess , using this method. #2 DRAINED. only.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnac_the_Magnificent#/media/File:Carnac.jpg
guess 2, A/T box.
is ATF , automatic transmission fluid
on a drain, what comes out is UNKNOWN. by no man on earth.
think of a large sponge, (full of ATF)
and know that only 1/3 will comes out, the rest is in the SPONGE
and the BIG clutch (TC)
so what we do is measure what came out and put back what you found, assuming it was correct to start.
all A/T same answer, mostly.
the service manual lists those 3 ways.
and then says, volumes can very by normal variances in the building of the transmission.
Spark plugs in your case 4.
New air filter.
Carburator cleaner to clean the throttle body.
In case you want to change the oil, oil filter and 4 quarts of oil.
In case you want to change transmission fluid, 5 quart of transmission fluid and transmission fluid filter
1.6L or 1.8L
400s are evap or EGR.
EVAP Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
reset it, tighten the gas cap, and see if 451 come back.
or a new cap if it leaks.
if not that, then the EVAP venting system needs pressure checking next. (takes tools to fix cars so....) get it serviced.
what are you doing, what job. pan off is just 1 step in many jobs.
not stating the job makes answers useless ,IMO
eg , it leaks (most leaks are not due to this !!!!) ask how to find leaks!
new pickup screen,, new rod bearing.
timing chain on J18
oil pump.
rusted out pan, and leaks? in Salt belt locations?
G16 or J18 engine? details. matter.
the fSM says , ":remove pan" on the G16 the CKP sender must be removed first.
just screws, and most are RTV glued on at the factory with no gaskets. if you add a gasket (bad) to the G16 ,that makes the CKP sensor fail, due to stand off of said sensor, "I warned you"
G16B engine, with mAF and is air density EFI.
sure they are all easy. if you know a few tricks
if spark is good x4 (after all it takes 4 to run), then try test fuel
my guess, is you never do 60k mile tune ups, this decade.?
the cam belt slipped and compression is not 170 but 80 PSI x4
and test fuel test ,fails.
right?
putting gas where?
gas tank
or doing the Test fuel procedures?
is this a barn find/ field found car, or it ran perfect last week, and DD for months. (daily driver?) all this maters and is unstated.
1.6L or 1.8L engine, G16 or J18 suzuki enignes? major different they are.
with old engines, we do this and win every time.
all FUSES good, (EFI and spark fuses up to 3 or more)
1: compression test, sparks out , wide open throttle. warm to hot engine.
180psi on all,, good, if like 90, the timing belt slipped. if J18. we have
3 folks now on our forum that managed to slip a chain (they ingored huge noises from engine,,,, amazing)
2: spark got good on all 4 cylinders. and timed right not guessed at
using a real tool called a timing light for 20 bucks.
3: with fuel pump relay pulled i test engine on test fuel.
runs for 3 seconds, each spray and SOUNDS good.
ok it does that.. (this avoids flooding issues)
4: i put back the fuel pump relay.
and it dont start. i check for injection,
i find all injectors, dead.
the ECU is cutting injection,
i connect scan tool and see the CKP DTC errors , the CKP is dead
or CMP on G16. dead. the ECU reports them cranking only, on a dead engine.
the ECU will cut fuel if it seen spark dead.
the ECU will cut fuel if the TPS sensors signals wide open throttle cranking
i checked all that and its good.
i find fuel pressure a 0 , cranking, (one more cheap tool)
i find 12vdc good to pump cranking (a 10 buck meter at walfart)
the pump is bad. no the wires are corroded. at the pump line....
super common on old cars.
this is 1 example path of 100s.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
the pump is fuel cooled and fuel lubricated.
lacking fuel it can wreck a good pump, if key is left on.
or cranked for long times, with no fuel
the operators guide warns all drivers of this fact.
make sure you have 12v to pump cranking
yes, the open (crack a fitting there) the fuel rail and crank, no fueL?
then bad pump.
if you see fuel that dont mean it can run like the OLDEN days carbs
it takes over 28PSI (or as the FSM STATES) pressure for injectors to even work.
You can try some starting fluid sprayed inside the air cleaner box.
An engine needs 4 basic elements air, gas, spark and compression.
It is a good idea to test for all 4.
which one?
