Top 20 1994 Plymouth Voyager Questions & Answers

only if loose. why not torque it spec, then know yourself the answer>>? Where did you see timing off, doing what with what or how?spark timig or a new cam chain or getting CKP sensor errors?

More than likely the pick up coil in distributor,not knowing engine size is hard to diagnose .The pick up coil pulses the injectors,this is most likely the problem not the fuel pressure.

it could be dash board fail, or the connection to the dash board is damaged or not connecting to the pin board, there is a main socket the the dashboard is fitted to ie pushed on sometimes it can come away or the connections can become damaged with corrosion, usually just needs removing and cleaning, or the main regulator on the dash has gone, if the regulator board is the problem you will need to replace the board not the hole dash board layout.

Clean your maf sensor. Possibly bad map sensor also.

air in the coolant system can cause this.it sounds like they maybe the problem, coolant cant circulate unless bled properly

Ah but did it solve the transmission problem?

Have you checked fuel pressure ?

some air to bleed out maybe if rotors weren't changed ..warped rotors

Follow the link to the Dayco blet routing pdf file, it is large so give it time to load. Go all the way to page 125, your belt diagram is 7-73 You have a 3.3L (only engine in your year offered) not a 3.0L http://daycoweb.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/cf652a4feb630ad0862571a4005ae40c/1120b6e8f406fd3e862574c000569a91/$FILE/SerpentineBeltRoutingGuide.pdf

Hello Stephen, Please see attached diagrams for your 1994 Voyager Belt Routing:

radiator overheating replace radiator cap

Misfire , spark plugs , plug wires , etc....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSGOV4ZgKfg can do better here is a video shows how to replace it granted its a difo model but it will live in the same place hope it helps of not doouu.... never mind and try this site for more info http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler/3.3L-3.8L/transmission-code-p0750-test-1

it could be your idle positioner sensor,it would be best to have it analysed

there's a wire that is grounding out

If it's a 3.0 then lifters are leaking down or weak,high miles try a additive for awhile then change oil a few times going with a heavier weight like 10w40 if it doesn't clear up then lifters need to be replaced assuming oil pressure is ok "assuming" every thing else is in working order.

First you need the Van in the air either by hoist or by the jack provided to change the flats. Place blocks at the front wheels so Van doesn't roll when jacking the Van up. Remove each rear wheel and then remove the hub on one side revelling the brake shoes and then remove=e the brake shoes carefully remembering how they go so you can replace the old shoes with the new shoes the exact way, then you go to the other wheel and do the same ( the best is to remove the both hubs before you remove the shoes so that you can take them to the machine shop to have them turned ) put the hubs back on and then the wheels. While the Van is still jacked up you can ajust each wheel by turning it by hand and adjusting each wheel with the adjuster on the inner wheel . When the Van is jacked up brace the Van so it will not fall PS if the hubs are in bad shape and can't be turned you will need new ones . Clean your tools before putting them away .

Need a little more info than that

engine? 2.4 3.3

It may be gas or ignition related. Try to determine which, when it stalls and won't start. With key on, you should hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and fuel rail on the engine. If you don't hear the pump, and have no pressure in the fuel rail with key on, it is probably a bad pump. If the pump is working, check for a strong blue spark on a spark plug wire after it stalls. If no spark on any of the plug wires, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the ignition control module. Either one can cause those symptoms- failing after it gets warm or hot.