20 Most Recent 2001 Chrysler Sebring - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The cars computer brain need to be reset.

Bleeder valve for brakes is on the caliper, bleeder valve for radiator is at the top, middle left near front of motor if thats what youre looking for.

Would guess the container is cracked or a hose or pump is leaking Take the container out if vehicle & check it over

This is an oil PRESSURE issue, not oil level. It is likely that when you stop, and the engine returns to idle, the oil pump is not creating enough pressure to push oil up to the top of the engine and lubricate the valve assembly. I hate being the bearer of bad news, but the plastic impellers in most modern oil pumps do fail over time, especially if they've been disturbed by the work associated with an engine rebuild. Or, it could be that it is not sitting right on the pickup and feed tubes, and they are being blocked and causing pickup problems at low RPMs. The solution will involved dropping the pan to figure out what's going on with the pump.

autozone.com has a lot of repair info and diagrams. I'd be surprised if your timing isn't controlled by the crank position sensor signal to the computer on a 2001? If timing chain or belt is off one tooth, that would throw it off.

if your refering to the solenoid pack in the valve body then you first drain trans, remove pan, remove old gasket(do not discard unless you have a new gasket or the old is reusable.) only remove bolts that are pertaining to the removal of pack and or vavle body, remember what bolts go where, an then install is reversal of removal.

sounds like a wheel bearing or cv axle

if it is the only light on in the car then find the relay for the lights or check the dimmierswitch- assuming that it controls that light. if other lights are on with mirror lights then it could be the door sensor for open and closed it could be interior light control switch

check for after market thrust bearings ( federal mogul ETC) . next option is to have an engineering shop manufacture the thrust bearings . IF you cannot get thrust bearings then you have little option but to junk the crank as a floating shaft will give you problems with timing belt/chain alignment and ignition timing along with crank sensor problems.

Sometimes it's wise to count the teeth to make sure you're right on. Usually if the timing is a little off it'll still ignite fuel a little and pop. If it ran prior to doing the work, you may have forgotten to plug something back in, I do it quite often. If the timing belt broke, it may have bent valves. If you're smelling fuel, it's unlikely it's being ignited. I'd check compression just in case, and make sure you're not 180deg off. If you're going to remove the belt again, check the #1 piston is all the wAy up, check to make sure the distributor rotor is pointing to #1, and check to make sure cyl #1s valves are closed.

probably is the alarm being set off by a corrupted CPU program from connecting the leads incorrectly. When using jumper leads or jumper battery the positive lead is connected to the battery terminal first and the earth wire ( negative) is connected to the to the engine . NOT the battery. IT is also advisable to turn on the head lights These precautions prevent a power surge in the CPU that corrupts the program

Do you know for a fact the engine has spark but no fuel pressure ?

i think your engine may be junk now. its a good idea to check oil on any vehicle daily as suggested in any vehicle owner manual. the piston rings could be worn out causing it to use oil or a bad head gasket, or maybe u have a oil leak you dont know about. wish you luck, id probably get a new car or replace the engine since more than likely the crank shaft bearings are junk causing a rod knock