20 Most Recent 1997 Chrysler Town & Country - Page 9 Questions & Answers

hit the dash a couple of times with switch on.lights should come on and will start.

cooling fans stay on, engine could be overheating, faulty cooling fan relay or pcm could be faulty.best get vechicle code scan before spending too much money you need scan to see what engine coolant temperature is,scanner can tell you if engine getting too hot could have partially closed thermostat,clogged radiator cores clogged engine block coolant passages clogged also the heater core, if engine not overheating the code scanner will tell you if you have faulty cooling fans relay or pcm failure.

go to dealership order one.

check the belt for tension,if you push it with your finger,you should not be able to push it more than 1/4 inch or so ,if you can the belt needs changingalso with the engine runing see if the belts lined up with the pulleys.this will tell you if you have play or out of alignment/wear on the pulley/s

this vehicle has a 604 at / transaxle in it , you have a problem with the pin in your differenal coming loose an damaging the main case , sorry but you will have to replace your ****** = $ 1200.00 to $ 1650.00 for a rebuilt unit with a 18 mo / 18,000 mile warranty >>>call big john @ 704-865-7179 m/f 9:00 = 4:00 >>H/A/N/D !!

Try this and see if it works. Let me know.
Start your van. Then slide your temp lever all the way to the left (full cold). Then turn the Mode Control to 'panel' (the one that sends air to your face only). Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash you can let go. The AC will now calibrate. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. This means it has been completed . Press the last flashing button and you are done.

check cv joints as well possibly could be worn out

under the van toward the middle it is a fairly big unit you cant miss it u have to lower the gas tank though go to ur local auto parts store and ask to c it then look under the van 1st time took me about an hour not hard to do

Hi Jack,First I want to appologize to you for not getting back to you right away. I was not actually online at the time that you purchaced my services. I had simply forgotten to log out. So I am just now getting the message that you have asked for my help.Anyway, if your other windows are working, this eliminates several possibilities. Your passenger window circuits can all be tested from the passenger window switch connector without having to take a lot of stuff apart. I have uploaded the wiring diagram for your window circuits. You can download a FREE copy at the following link: Window Circuit-01.gif Just scroll down to the bottom of the page and select the link that says "slower download" , wait for the timer and enter the "captcha code" to download the file. Please note that you DO NOT have to purchase a "filesonic membership" to download the file. I have had problems with people thinking that I am trying to "sell" them a filesonic membership - this is simply NOT TRUE. The only thing I am selling is MY SERVICES and this is just one of the methods I use to deliver them.When you check the circuits at the PASSENGER window switch, this is what you should find if the circuits are all working properly:The BROWN/WHITE wire (pin 3) and the VIOLET/WHITE wire (pin 2) should both be GROUND with the driver's switch in the NEUTRAL position. The wire at pin 3 will switch to battery power when the driver's switch is in the UP position and the wire at pin 2 will switch to battery power when the driver's switch is in the DOWN position. If these conditions are not what you find, then the problem is either the driver's control switch or the wiring between the driver's switch and the passenger switch.The BROWN wire (pin 8) and the VIOLET wire (pin 5) work similarly, however they are both grounded when BOTH switches are in the NEUTRAL position. These should toggle between power and grond when EITHER switch is operated. If the circuits above (pins 2 and 3) are working like they should, but these wires are not, then the problem is the PASSENGER switch. If ALL of these circuits are working as described, then the problem is the window lift motor.Please study the wiring diagram so you can understand how this is all supposed to work.If you need any further assistance, please respond back to this message to let me know.Thank You for your patronage,Dave (dttech)

now turn??? or will not turn? makes a diffrence...if the eigine turns over...but will not start...pull a plug wire off from a spark plug..take another spark plug(that you know is good).groung the plug on engine block...have some one turn the engine over(make sure you have no loose clothing that can get caught into belts or pullys and that yours hands are not near them either)check the plug for fire..if you have not fire the problem is an ignition module more than likely.If the engine is not turning over...check the connections to your battery..and make sure the battery is good as well..if connections are good and battery is good..you need to do the next step...which is to follow the cables to their destinations..the black (ground to the engine block or body ground) make sure its firmly connected and has clean contact..and is not broken.if this is ok...go to the other (red or positive cable)it will go to the starter. or starter solinoid .do the same with this one as the ground (check for good connection and not broken) if the wires are good and good connection...go to advance auto and they will check solinoid for you (free of charge) I hope I have been of some help to you :-)

better check it over good, belts dont just "fall off', something is bad. Tensioner? pulley? ect.

Was the fuel filter replaced when the fuel pump was installed? A clogged fuel filter may have been what took out pump#1, and it can quickly send pump #2 to the happy hunting ground also.

Check the fan directly on the battery to confirm the fan motor.
Next check on the fan motor relay in the relay box, check power to the relay and output. trace the wiring.
Finally a fault in the heat sensor - thermistor - that must trigger the fan relay circuit. Need to trace the sensor from the engine body - water jacket to the relay circuit.-- also suspect the sensor relay drive circuit.

The transmission fluid cooler has a primary cooler that runs thru the radiator. They are know to sometimes develop cracks in the tubing which releases trans fluid into coolant. Replacing the radiator and flushing the coolant will usually put you back on the road.

check fuel pressure first, also, does the check engine light stay on ?

Its better you reomove the installed alarm you dont have to remove and restore everything just 2 things the ignition that has be interrupted and the factory alarm in the hood just cut the alrm horn wire. For the ignition you will have to go under the console and remove the panel to access where they have interrupted the original wire. Identify the the ignition wires there you will see where they have splice a wire to a relay match thhe colors that they interrupted and restore that wire (its a 4 wire relay) use a but connection and ensure it does not fall apart start the car if the alarm horn goes off just cut it(NOT the car horn)

CODE 12 - BATTERY BEEN DISCONNECTED. CODE 31 - EVAP SOLENOID CIRCUIT. CODE 43 - IGNITION COIL 1 AND 3 PRIMARY CIRCUIT CODE 17 - ENGINE IS COLD TOO LONG REPLACE THERMOSTAT. CODE 42 - AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT.PROBLEM COULD BE ASD RELAY OR YOU HAVE A SHORT IN THE WIRING TO THE ASD RELAY.