1995 Chrysler Concorde - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

the engine will oveheat for what appears to be no reason, the cooling system is rusty and dark, in worst cases you will have a misfire of one or two cylinders, heater will not work at idle in some cases, there will be hydrocarbon gases in the coolant.

Yes,it most likely is,unless the heater core is leaking,just make sure it is not coolant.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS Dodge OBD1 Pre 96

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition

CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

Carefully remove the entire rocker assembly then replace the broken or worn individual rocker arm and reassemble..can be obtained at any Chrysler/Jeep Dealership...Ur Velcum

Brake lines of the appropriate size are located at your local auto parts store.

May have to get a torch, line wrenches, and other tools before tackling this job.

Try to change the brake lines as completely as possible, eliminating rusty lines that might spring a leak later.

Good luck to you.

The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so the front of the engine must come off, including radiator, fans, belts, pulleys, timing belt cover, etc. the timing belt removed (making sure cams do not rotate, water pump can then be changed. 4 bolts on it to be removed. The water pump is driven by the backside of the timing belt. The pump is buried deep in the front of the engine.
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Could be but I would check your elec. radiator cooling fans to make sure there coming on and also he thermostat, make sure your coolant level is at full.

not good , replacement part should be available , the brake system should be bleed after complete repair

The starter is located on the left (drivers) side lower engine. You will have to jack the car up or use ramps. Remove battery neg cable.1st The starter is held in by two 15mm bolts. There are two wires that will need to be removed. One is held by a 13mm nut, the other is a push on terminal or held on by a 8mm nut. There is shield between the bellhousing and starter, take note as this goes in only one way.

I would check to see if your thermostat is stuck closed.

You may have a stuck closed thermostat, if it overheats within 10 minutes or so. I would verify the cooling fan/s are coming on. The worst case, would be a blown head gasket.

The hasard flaser swith on the dash has the flasher in it. Many times the turn signals don't work either as it does that too. If they don't work any of the time., a fuse or turn signal switch problem may be happening.

under dash ,,on top of steering colum at the bottom,

no such thing as to muck vacuum. its impossible. check for bad pcv vavle. a coating of oil inside manifold is normal

assuming the battery is good.
It will probably be the solenoid on the starter, you will have to remove the starter and repair or replace.
If it is a continuing problem it can help to fit another relay opperating off the start wire , the relay is fed from the battery, and then feeds the solenoid, this way maximum voltage is applied to the solenoid and it will work better

If the injectors are OEM for that motor then it sounds like your idle got knocked off or was adjusted to compensate for the old injectors getting worn and clogged. Look for you throttle cable at the intake manifold. Where the swivle is for the cable there is an adjustment for the cable. It should be a little round nut or screw.

In most cars, it is placed in the same chamber as the intake air filter. In my 96 corolla, it is on the "clean air" side of the filter box just before the pipe that leads to the manifold. The only thing i can think to compare the apperence of the sensor to would be something like a small rubber spark plug. If it is not in the air filter box, it has to be somewhere attached to the manifold or the pipe leading from the manifold to the air filter box. Let me know if this answers your question and rate my response please.

it is bad wireing or badly connected or burned fuse
start with the fuse
look in the car manual, which fuse you should replace

good luck

Could be brakes pads/shoes are worn out, brake drum/rotor grinding from metal to metal contact. Or a bad brake caliper. Parking brake could be on. Or rear wheel bearings.