1995 Chrysler Concorde - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What???___________Allobd2.com

on the 95 Concorde 3.3 the thermostat is right in front of you when you open the hood it has what looks like a grease nipple on it and it has the big hose that comes from the rad make sure you put a new gasket on with a small amount of sealant and the thermostat go`s in the right way .

check relay

Is it a misfire? Have the plugs ever been replaced and the plug wires? What is the compression reading on all the cylinders? No cylinder should be more than 5% lower than the one with the highest reading in PSI.

Sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing and or possible worn Tie rod ends. jack up front end of car and grab wheel on top and bottom and try to wiggle it also try by grabbing on the sides of the wheel. If you have play there you better get your wheel bearings changed. Your tires are probably showing wear on the tire that has bad bearings or bad tie rod end.

Have you checked your wiring to starter? It sounds like the power wire going to starter has loosened up.That would cause fuse to blow and also the way you described that the car died. Or even check to see that the red wire going to starter hasn't gotten dinged or melted by the exhaust. Anything that would cause it to short out.

check the hazard warning light switch as this is often the most common fault ,the switch stops working ,turn indicators on and have a play with the hazard switch

maybe you should clean the ground for the coil

I'll suggest scanned the computer to know exactly what fault code is stored there; generally is a problem with the wheel speed sensor, but need confirm this in order to start solution.Hope helps.

The nine quarts is the total capacity of the transmission. The only time you would use all nine quarts is if you where flushing the transmission. You will need to drop the pan and start over as your transmission is now severly overfilled. I left the details of how to do this in your previous question. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check for spark first. If you have spark, Are you getting fuel pressure? If not, the fuel pump is the likely fault.

• The actual latch is what keeps the hood locked down. Will look like the diagram below.

• Hope this helps.

• You can't access the alarm without a programmed FOB. The FOB sends a series of frequencies for each command to the brain and must be sent from an FOB to activate the alarm. As much as I understand your frustration, if the alarm could be set without an FOB then the alarm could also be de-activated without it as well. This would not be much in the way of security. Good luck to you.

• Hope this helps.

U got a bad air intake plunger does it die when ur at a light???

What color is you r oil? is it yellow or mxxy with anti freeze? Probally a bad head gasket if it is excelerating slowly

I am a strong believer of the KISS therory, so lets start on the most likely. When you replaced the battery, did you also clean the battery cable connections? If not that is the most likely cause! If not, suggest you get jump your car to make sure where the problem is. If it starts with the jump start then it is in the battery system - battery, battery cables, alternator.

Well if you can get to the freeze plug with the engine in the car, if it is a smooth metal one,just drive a punch or a heavy sheet metal screw into it with a hammer then pop out.Once the old one is out,clean up the area with some sandpaper.if you are replacing with a rubber one or a metal one,always use some high temp sealer around the replacement plug and let it sit overnight to cure so it wont leak in the future. Some freeze plugs cant be fixed without the engine being raised up or taken out of the car though just so you know.You will have to judge that by where the leaking freeze plug is.

Give some more details of the problem.

You may want to have refrigerant level checked. Low refrigerant can cause compressor to cycle on and off, causing similar symptoms.

In order to read your obd code you have to turn the key on and off three times then the fourth time leave it on and watch the check engine light for flashing the code. There is delay before it starts to flash. Then it will flash and pause before it goes to the next number. for example one flash is 1, two flashes is 2, and so on till it flashes 5,5, which is the end of the code. there is a pause between numbers. You will have to try it a few times till you get a feel for it.