20 Most Recent 1995 Chrysler Concorde - Page 10 Questions & Answers

SUGESTION IF YOU HAVE ACESS TO A TIMING LIGHT USE IT TO SEE IF IT MAY HAVE JUMPED TIME . CHECK FOR VACUME LEAKS DO A COMPRESSION CHECK ON ENGINE AND ALSO LIFT HOOD AFTER DARK START THE CAR AND SEE IF YOU CAN SEE ANY SPARK JUMPING. AND HOW IS YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM COULD YOU BE RUNNING OFF THE BATTERY. IS IT DISCHARGING?KEEP ME POSTED I MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU EMAIL [email protected] i should be able to help you thru this DALE

replace heater/ac control head

If I'm correct, I'm not sure, it's easier to jack up driver's side of car and have the wheels turned to the right. There are splash sheilds that you'ld have to remove. From there you can get your arm in to work with the starter. It's a tight fit though but doable. When you remove the starter the flywheel cover will come with. Make sure you put it back on exactly. So pay attention. I found out the hard way. Like I said I'm not sure. I worked on a dodge intrepid or concord around the same year. Since I'm a GM man, I don't remember it's a completly different setup or not.

Here is an exact quote from Chrysler, hope it helps. Good luck.
"Code 55 indicates end of codes. If you are retrieving codes, code 55 will indicated that you have reached the end of the code list. Code 55 will always be reported regardless of if there is another code to report or not. If you don’t receive a code 55 when retrieving codes, the power limited light may be burned out (or you may not have done the code checking procedure correctly."

have them check the crankshaft sensor they go bad sometimes and they are when tells the engine to start

its under the far right side of the dash...there is probable a cover over...to identify the area there should be a black and a grenn wire going through the cover

first thing first... have you seen an actual oil spot/leak on the ground after the car has sat overnight. have you checked the seal around the oil filter.
If you have done those things and both are no... there is a chance it is burning the oil... what does the exhaust smoke look like ?

Robert

Try pushing down on hood as you pull the wire.

There are 3 places it could be coming from. (1) The outer rubber seal on the pump between it and the case (2) The metal clad seal in the center of the pump that seals against the converter hub (3) And, the 5 bolts that hold the pump in have washers under them. The seal around the outside likes to get hard and brittle with age, especially if it has gotten hot before, leading to cracks that leak. The converter seal will wear naturlaly from doing it's job and more so if the pump bushing is wore out. The bolts that hold the pump in can get loose because of vibration letting oil out around the threads and out into the world.

If you pull it out and don't find loose bolts or obvious signs of a leak, then I suggest changin out all the places I mentioned. If you take the trans out and tip it on it's ****, then the pump comes out with a couple slide pullers. Be careful not to let the clutch-pack(inputshaft) slide out any, this will make going back together easier. There is a gasket between the inside of the pump and the case that will most likely need replaced too so get that as well; it seals all the ports and passages around the pump. Replace the outer square "O"-ring and the metal clad seal in the middle, then lube the outer seal and set the pump in place. Line it up and drive it in with the handle of any hammer. Torque it down(23ft. lbs.) with new washers for the bolts or new bolts with integeral washers. Be sure to loctite the threads as well to prevent them loosening up. Wiggle turn the input shaft to double check it isn't bound up and then just put it back in the car.

It sounds like a pain and it can be, but, it's easy after you do a couple thousand. Just like falling off a log. Hopefully you just have to do it once.

sounds like a steering coupler the part that connects steering shaft to rack or the U joint on the shaft broke

you might want to try a body control module on most LH models it is located behind the lower dash on the passenger side of car.

the alarm is activating when he locks it and for some reason the key or fob isnt deactivating it..check the disarm switches in the door

sounds like it wasnt put on right theres a certain way it goes on and you have to be exact with it

you may want to look at the crank shaft sensor

may be the fuel supply system have some complaint.try to check it.also try to check the ignition system

with your fob --and it auto arms when you exit and lock doors