20 Most Recent 1995 Chrysler Cirrus - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I had this problem along with my fuel gauge dropping to empty and back up to actual amount and tach worked sometime and didn't other times. I ended up replacing the Engine Control Unit (near positive battery terminal on firewall. If you read the codes out and they all have something to do with low voltage, this will solve the problem.

It is located at the back of the fuel tank.It is as large as half a beer can. This is on a lx still hope this helps

THE PINION FACTOR OR TIRE SIZE,MUST BE PROGRAMMED WITH A SCAN TOOL IF YOU INSTALLED A NEW TCM..IF TRANS IS SLIPPING..THERE SHOULD BE A FAULT CODE IN TCM

to detailed to explain here. buy a hanynes repair manual at local auto store, 17$ it'll explain step by step.

If you're in the Los Angeles, CA area there's a Craigslist listing for a complete 1997 Cirrus and the guy is selling the transmission for $150 with 150K miles on it.

Here's the listing: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1240701027.html

Hope all works out for you!

Your piston rings are bad.

We don't clean spark plugs. Replace them and see what you've got.

Sounds like your original problem was the TCM. Find out what codes are in the TCM, and fix them. You most likely have a bad output or input speed sensor, or a solenoid pack.

check for low fluid .governor valve sticking.1-2 shift valve sticking.2-4 servo passages restricted.2-4 band worn .band not engaged in the anchor pin.

I've heard it's an issue with the distributor. Moisture, washing your engine gets through the vents in the distributor causing no spark. The ignition coil/module is built into the distributor housing. This means the distributor would have to be replaced. People also have tried using WD-40, I don't recommend, due to it only being a temporary fix and the petroleum in the WD allows build up to occur. BAD distributor design!!!!

well first of all , dont bring it to the dealer they will rip you off, now your testament is a telltale description of what happens when you have a faulty crank position sensor, have it checked or replace if necessary. in your vehicle it should be located just behind/upper left corner of the crankshaft pulley, if you decide you cant change it yourself , purchase the piece and bring it to the shop so you just have to pay for the labor

The engine size makes a difference too on the gap although most are 60 thousandths gap

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. If equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), remove the wheel speed sensor cable routing bracket from the steering knuckle.

There is more.....

Most radiators use a plug now instead of the old petcock valve. The plug is on the very bottom of the radiator facing the ground. Most I have seen have a large phillips slot in them. You can loosen it just a turn or so till you get some flow, if you remove it all the way watch for washer/gasket and/or "O" rings you will have a leak if you lose something. good luck cb

I dont know about your car but I have a lever on the side of the seat, bottom part, by door. It slides out and you can push down and it will ajust the seat up or down. sometimes it will ride up on its own, and I just push it down again firm and it should stay. Hope this works for you.

Code 12 means That the Crankshaft position sensor may need replacement.It is located near the crankshaft maybe under the timing cover.

Should have to take off the bolt on the bottom of the strut, and the strut mounts on the top. Most likely get them through the trunk.

I would replace the AC low pressure cycling switch, this is the most common cause of your problem.

if it is a factory system it can not be bypassed