20 Most Recent 1994 Chrysler Concorde - Page 9 Questions & Answers

OIL GETTING DOWN IN FRONT LEFT CYLINDER COULD BE STOPPED UP OIL RETURN HOLE.WORN VALVE GUIDES OR SEALS.AND WORN PISTONS RINGS.DO A COMPRESSION TEST ON THAT CYLINDER.IT WILL LEAD YOU RIGHT TO THE PROBLEM.

the starter could be bad or a loose wire to the starter

I like my Michelin Beam type windshield wipers.

on or near the thermostat housing

Have you checked for spark? It might have a bad crank sensor.

Replace the water pump. It is probably leaking due to the gasket in between the water pump and the block. When you buy a water pump at the parts store, they will make sure you have the right water pump gasket.

COULD BE A COUPLE OF PROBLEMS. FIRST, AND MUST COMMON. THE FREON LEVEL MAY BE LOW (LEAK). SECOND, THERE MAY BE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. CHECK FUSE UNDER DASH, AND FUSES UNDER THE HOOD.

you need a new thermostat, its sticking and causing you problems, soon it will just stay stuck, the reason the reserve keeps filling up is because of heat and pressure in the radiator

A bad cap will definately cause your problem. Put a new radiator cap on and your problem should be gone. The cap controls the pressure in your system (usually about 15 lbs) and for every pound of the pressure the boiling point of your coolant goes up by 4-6 degrees.

Although it didn't turn on the cam pulleys it probably turned on the crank pulley, how did you loosen belt? There are timing marks for reference

nope just reconnect it all up, the tranny lines are only an transmission oil cooler, it is not under pressure like the brake lines. system will be fine. when you put the hoses back on and fill the system up leave the cap off while running the car making sure the coolant is at the top of the radiator, this will flow through the entire system and force any air pockets out of it once all bubbling has stopped and fluid is still at the top put cap back on and your set. air pockets can cause the car to heat up.

mcdevito75 here, In most cases the A/C needs a charge og Freon gas, have your local repir shop check it out.

Refill the coolant system reservoir when cold. Ensure the cap has a good seal and is tightened down properly With the hood raised, restart and allow the engine to idle until running temperature. 1) No agitation should be seen in the reservoir water, certainly no stream of bubbles or violent movement. If there are violent signs then this points to a blown head gasket. 2) The top rubber hose from the engine to the radiator at some point should become hot. Keeping checking the temperature gauge from time to time to see if the temperature is rising. If there is no temperature gauge response then there is something wrong with the gauge circuitry. 3) at some point here the fan (if electric or clutch operated should become engaged. If the electric fan never comes on either the temperature sensor is faulty, the fan fuse or solenoid relay are not functional or the fan motor is blown. 4) Within a few more minutes the lower hose exiting from radiator to the engine should also become hot. If these two events happen then your pump is circulating the water and the thermostat is functioning.If the top hose does not become hot you need to check your thermostat. If the top hose does become hot but the bottom one does not, even after quite a while, then either the pump is a fault or there is blockage; maybe due to sludge in the radiator core or pipes. To check the thermostat simply remove it and drop it into a pan of boiling water. Immediately you should see the thermostat pop open. Take the pan of water off the heat and watch the thermostat. After about five minutes when the water has begum to cool the thermostat should pop closed again. These events are not subtle so if they are not seen it is likely that a new thermostat will be needed. In the event the system is blocked simply remove coolant hoses and use a high pressure hose to flush the radiator and system clear of sludge. If there is air trapped in the system try putting the interior heater on to full to help flush them out. In an emergency putting on the interior heater can assist the main engine cooling.

I believe it is next to the drivers seat. Not positive

Nope

check fuses and if its not that then look for an internal switch for it inside your car

worst case you have to drill it out and replace it

its either the flexible brake pipes are closing up inside ,very badly worn lower track control arm bushes or the ma ster cylinder but it depends if its a tandem front and rear or tandem one front and one rear ,another cause is a seized caliper -now was one tight to go back in when the new pads were fitted ??if so then it could be either the seal in the caliper has corroded in the seal seat path or again the flexible pipe ,if caliper goes in easy when the bleed nipple is undone then its the flexible pipe .their is nothing else that will cause this unless you have a badly worn disk but even so i have not had worn disks cause this but i have had a different carbon content in the steel of the disks before now but it is very rare ,i would go for the flexible hoses first as this is about 90% of the problems

get the frame checked at an alignment shop, could have shifted or bent,

P sign on your instrument panel means that your parking brake is cocked! release the pedal by kicking it off with your left foot and see if the P sign goes off