20 Most Recent 2003 Acura RSX - Page 8 Questions & Answers

its easy
just trace the clutch pedal and you will see tow plugs you want the top one just stick a jumper wire in there
now you bypassed the switch you can start without touching clutch pedal

SOUNDS LIKE MISSFIRE
NEEDS TUNE UP MAY JUST BE A LOOSE PLUG WIRE
CHECK AIR FILTER --- FUEL FILTER CHANGED RECENTLY
MAY BE BAD FUEL PUMP
SCANNING FOR CODES COULD HELP PINPOINT PROBLEM

lock all the doors ,and giggle keys side to side and check the lights until they go off that the way you undo alarm system

DTC P1166: A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine.

Is DTC P1166 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at C101 (located under the right side of the dash), C401 (located under the left side of the dash), C402 (located under under the left side of the dash) the A/F Sensor relay, the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and the ECM/PCM.

1. Check the following fuse:

• No.14 OPTION (30A) fuse in under-hood fuse/relay box.
• No.2+B LAF HEATER (20A) fuse in under-dash fuse/relay box.
• No. 4ACG (10A) in under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are any of the fuses blown?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

NO - Go to step 4.

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24, 30 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Go to step 5.

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A22 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Go to step 10.

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

1. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E8 to body ground with a jumper wire, then measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Repair open or short in the wire between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A1).

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector A (31P) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector.

1. Check for continuity between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector terminal No.3 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay, A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A22).

NO - Go to step 13.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals E8 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1).

NO - Go to step 15.

1. Check for continuity in the wires between the A/F Sensor and the fuses.

Is there continuity?

YES - The wires are OK. Replace the A/F Sensor relay.

NO Repair open in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

I had the same problem with our 2004 RSX. First the driver's side window now the passenger side. They tried to glue the window back twice (driver's side) and ended up having to replace the window and tabs. Now the passenger side did the same thing. My wife put up the window and it kept going, coming out of the track. I'm assuming the window will have to be replaced. Waiting for Acura's ruling. Must be a flaw in the tabs/glue...should have been a recall.

There's none available....One way is to get the problem fixed and have the shop turn it off OR, Unhook your battery cable for 15-30 seconds. That should reset it...Keep in mind that if hte problem isn't fixed, The light will simply come back on.....

99 times out of 100, if the O2 sensor has a heater circuit code, the sensor itself is the problem. The other 1 percent is usually wiring harness problems. Don't waste your time or money on an aftermarket sensor. I don't know exactly why, but every time I tried one, the car would come back in with "Oxygen/ Air Fuel Sensor Lean" codes. Get the sensor from the dealer.

What is the year and model as well as the engine size in your Acura? This code is usually related to the bank 1 camshaft position sensor circuit.

Try disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes then re install the negative cable and drive it see if the comoputer was sending out wrongful electronic tasks to other sensors, if it doesn't change I would look into the coil pack...test for power to the coil and spark cranking, check the cam/crankshaft sensors they can be tested by means of an expensive scanner/reader tool that reads the voltage values of the sensors while the engine is running.
Definately sounds like spark(ignition) is the culprit not fuel, you may even want to have the ignitor module tested as well on the same testing scanner.

Hi,

I just watched your video on you tube and I would do the following.

1. Check all your heat shields on the exhaust system and make sure non of them are loose.If these are all tight and you can see non of them fouling any part of the exhaust then move to the next thing.

2. Remove the catalytic converter and try to see if the rattle has gone now. Sometimes if too much heat has been through them they will melt the core and form little balls which will bounce around inside the Cat. Converter.

3. If the exhaust system is all sweet then check fan-belt tensioner bearings, these can give the sound that something is ticking especially if they have a really badly worn ball cage. Also when your belt is off check the alternator by giving it a spin and make sure you hear no rumbling sounds from it.

4. If all these areas are ok then you got internal troubles with the engine top end or bottom end, which it sounds like to me. Even though you have had adjustments made to the lifters etc, if the lubricating orifice's in the cylinder head are blocked or get blocked then this will cause the lifters to rattle. Run an engine flush through it and change the oil and see what that is like.

5. If it is the bottom end, like mains or big ends you can find this out by fitting and oil gauge and running the engine, if at idle the oil pressure is not what it should be then you will have problems with your bottom end bearings.

I hope that this information is helpful and if you need more information just let me know.

Thanks

Jason

4.

You have worn cam bearings or a worn cam that struggles under a load

Sounds like a loose belt,dirty fuel injectors or fault in ac compressor fan.Clean the radiator fan.Check the engine belt first.If its very old and looks worn out,then replace that belt.Other thing check the fan the radiator fan when its spinning .If its not spinning freely then its the problem.The fan bearing needs to be checked. Other thing to check is the dirty injectors.remove and clean the injectors and refit it and then check. Also the other possibilities to be checked in this case are:--- clicking or ticking sound when accelerating the gas pedal:---- The clicking is being caused by a bad exhaust-manifold gasket, which allows exhaust to escape its normal route from exhaust manifold to pipe to muffler. And in escaping that route, the leak makes noise as often as the piston nearest the leak purges exhaust from the cylinder in which it is operating. Hence a clicking noise that increases in frequency with an increase in RPMs. In some cases noise decreases when RPM rises. Check for loose sparks plugs also, lifters, fuel injectors, fan hitting shroud, water pump, belt tensioner.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

If by lube nipples you mean grease fittings, which is where you grease the ball joint and the a arms etc. Most new autos including Acuras don't have them. In order to grease them they do make a grease gun end that is a hollow needle that can be inserted into the rubber part between the joints. I hope this helps.

make sure the cables are completely clean and in good condition. Check the ground to the engine and the posative to the starter.

Here are the instructions to test the braking switch and related components to locate the fault. Brake Pedal Position Switch Test 1.) Disconnect the 4P connector from the switch (A). 2.) Remove the brake pedal position switch. 3.) Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table, using a multimeter. 4.) If the continuity is not as specified, replace the brake pedal position switch and adjust the pedal height. 5.) If OK, install the brake pedal position switch and adjust the pedal height.

Question edited for clarity and make sentences.Remove the unit, remove the connectors, spray them with electrical contact cleaner and then replace them making sure they are well locked into place.Or there is a dry joint inside the unit.Start with the easy stuff first.https://www.google.com/search?q=Acura+RLX+radio+turns+off+every+time+I+hit+a+bump..

Unlikely :>D https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Acura+MDX+navigation+system+code+for+free ..

Two ideas here, in the under hood fuse box or under the bumper. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Acura+CL.+Where+is+the+a%2Fc+clutch+relay+located ..