Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.
Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.
The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.
What all did you disconnect ? Did you disconnect any connectors to the BCM - body control module ? All the thing's your having troubles with are controlled by the BCM . The wiper switch is an input to the BCM , the BCM controls the wipers by energizing two different relays . wiper on relay & wiper high low relay .
Since horn didn't work, tried to take off dash ???? Why ? didn't need to do that . Do you know what a relay is ? Horn relay is located in the under hood fuse / relay box . You could have tested right at the relay base - where it plugs in .
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis
Not sure but you may need to replace the air compressor itself. Mine did that and because of the age of the van it cost too much to repair so we just bypassed the compressor but we had to get a used compressor from a junk yard with no wires to make the belt work. Thirty dollars was cheaper than a four hundred repair job.
You can ohms test, primary coil circuits. You know which one is voltage, the other three are grounds, in my opinion. Do an ohms test between voltage terminal and the ground terminals one at a time. They all should show continuity, in my opinion, if not coil is faulty. The testing is with coil unplugged.
Now if there is a problem that is causing coil to go faulty, it will probably damage the new one as well, if it isn't fixed. My opinion.
The very 1st thing that must be done here to start diagnosis of this problem is to have the PCM (powertrian control module) scanned for fault codes, that is key to fixing this right first time. In most area's Autozone and O'reilly auto parts do this test for free (except California).
It's on your transmission bell housing, remove your air box top part along with the intake hoses, the reach through to your bell housing. Should be the only thing with an electrical connection. 10mm socket is all u need and screwdriver for the air box intake tubes. When putting it in gently slide it in till it's touches the flex plate, make sure the cardboard spacer is on the new crankshaft sensor. Then tighten losely. Don't over tighten cause u may crack or brake the plastic. Then reinstall all the the peices. And your done 30min tops.
Well I would guess its the contacts in the switch itself since they get moved manual by your hand the most. A motor either works or don't work no mater what speed its running..Just trying to help
https://s9.postimg.org/4k77afpa7/turn_signal.jpg
Click on the link. I looked at turn signal wiring. Check fuse 15--20 amp under hood fuse box. Not only check the fuse, use a testlight and check fuse circuit for voltage, hot all the time. At the combo flasher, there is also, ignition/run voltage, goes hot with the key on, you can see wire color.
There could be other issues. As you can see, turn signal switch is part of ground circuit.
I could post whole diagram on one link, but, too small to read. Usually with multiple issues, I just pick one and check it out. Fixing one issue may or may not fix the others?
There is a wiring harness that feeds to the door, electric door locks and windows draw a lot of amperage. Try removing fuses one at a time that supply power to your door controls until you see the problem go away. If that doesn't work, try other fuses to accessories like interior lights. If your headlights are dimming you have a power wire shorting to another circuit, if it were to ground it would blow a fuse.
It could be a number of thing's , wouldn't think the battery cables or connections . If they were bad it would have started in the first place . Timing belt ! There again , it wouldn't start in the first place . The crank sensor would not have anything to do with the starter spinning the engine over . The fuel pump will only run for two seconds when the key is first turned on , this is to prime the fuel system ! The fuel pump will not be turned on again untill the engine is cranking , or running . The fuel pump is controlled by the PCM - engine computer through a relay (fuel pump relay) Samething for the starter control , has a relay . Testing for control of the relay ,.at the relay ! In the under hood fuse / relay box ! Find the starter motor relay an pull it out an look on the bottom , you will see four sets of numbers . 30 , 87 & 85 , 86 . 30 should have B+ volt , testing with a volt meter . 87 goes down to the starter solenoid . If you take a piece of 12 gage wire an jump these two spots in the fuse / relay box , the starter will engage if the battery , cables an the starter are good ! The other two 85 & 86 are the contol side of the relay .86 should have B+ voltage an 85 goes to the PCM , where it will supplie a ground IF ,there are no problems with the park neutral safety switch . Or also if your vehicle has a anti-theft system an no problems ! Also your vehicle has a relay called a ASD - auto shut down relay , this relay powers up a lot of systems on your vehicle , i would also check it , Relays do good bad .
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuithttp://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams , do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to read one , to find testing points in a electrical circuit ?
Starter Voltage DropVEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis
Good luck i hope i have given you enough info to diagnose this correctly
