20 Most Recent 2000 Mercury Cougar - Page 9 Questions & Answers

more info needed! do you mean a humming or a metal grinding like a knife on a hone?

use jumper cables to test the battery cables put one from the starter to the battery if no change the starter wold be bad

my cougar did the same thing when i changed the alternator on my 2000 cougar.. the car has an inline fuse located on the motor under a lil box with 2 bolts. that fuse will stop the car from getting a charge. i payed 3 people to try to fix it and they couldnt... i looked at it and found the inline fuse right away and as soon as i changed the fuse my car was taking charge.. hope this helps

The ignition module won't read the key or the moduleby the instrument panel may not be working, ifthat applies.Your going to need a dealer or repair shop to scanthe systemA code reader won't do that.

Take the wheel off, secure strut to lower frame with a strong piece of rope, place a jack under the sway bar, jack up slightly, that will hold the strut from lowering anymore via the link from the sway arm to the strut (reason for the rope securing the strut is it will swing out towards you when the lower control arm is removed), saturate all the bolts with a good penatrating oil [Liquid Wrench = Good Stuff] remove the nut from the lower ball joint stud, spray on more penatrating oil where stud goes through spindle, hit the spindle with a good size hammer where the ball joint stud goes through the spindle (always hit what it goes through), give it several hard sharp raps from the sides, then hit downward on the lower control arm with hammer, most of the time the stud will come right out, if not, put nut back on ball joint stud just until the stud is flush with the top of the nut, since you can not hit directly on the top of stud, get a good sized wrench to go across the stud and hit downward on either side of the wrench, holding other end with your other hand, if the ball joint does not come out now, hit the spindle from the sides some more HARD, then hit downward on control arm, if it still does not come loose you will have to get (or rent) a spreader (Pickle Fork) to separate the ball joint from the spindle, then remove the two bolts from the lower frame, slide lower control arm out.

Check to see if the fans are connected to the wiring harness, if radiator was removed the shroud and fans had to be removed, are fan motors connected to wiring harness, are there any damaged wires at connectors, check the fans fuses at fuse box (Power Distribution Box) in the engine compartment (front right side)(push in on tab in front of box lift up then back to remove cover), Engine Cooling Fan Fuse, Yellow 60 amp, posistion #49, Check the Relays, Engine High Speed Cooling Fan, posistion #R8, Engine Cooling Fan, posistion #R9.

HelloThe Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

Get it done at the shop. Its cheap

The general definition is a problem with the trans control module.The module could be faulty, or a problem with the wiring harness to the transmission.You may want to check with the dealer or do some online research to see if there are specifics for the code on your model of car.

HelloThe engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

I would check the relays and the ignition switch for a short.

littlepyrodu, I would first back probe the wires going to the light bulb socket first to see if you are getting voltage to the socket, Sockets are prone to sometimes get to hot and resulting in the contact (inside of socket) to recess into the plastic housing causing it not to have contact with the bulb contacts. If you do not know how to back probe, you need a volt meter, cheapy will do just fine, and two small alligator clips (if the leads that come with the meter does not have them(some do) and two straight pins. First crimp the alligator clips on the free ends of the lead wires of the meter, set the meter for a 12 volt range (make sure your above 12 volt setting, less will fry your meter, take the two straight pins and stick them in the two wires going to the socket in question, space them apart a few inches so there is no chance in shorting out the two wires, clip on the alligator clips to the pins, turn on lights, if the meter swings to the left, reverse the alligator clips, wrong polarity, now you should have12 volts showing on your volt meter, if not, you do have a broken wire in the harness, that is as you stated " Fuse Is Fine". You also stated that the wire may have been cut,, you shouldn't need a diagram / schematic for that, the opposing color coded wire should be right there, either at the socket end or at the business end (under dash). Note: Look to see if there is a worn spot in the carpet, drivers side right at the side kick panel, there is a wiring harness under the carpet there that goes along the door threshold to various components in the car. My wife had a habit of resting her foot there all of the time while driving and wore a spot there and it exposed the wires located there, reason I know they are there. And is also where I connected wires from a remote starter for the door locks and trunk release and parking lights... If there is a worn through spot there or not, I would at least check there to see if a wire has been worn into or shorted out, all you have to do is pull the carpet out from under the driver side kick panel, enough to see the wires, then just tuck it back under the kick panel when done. Hope this helps you and anyone else with this issue.