20 Most Recent 1999 Jeep Cherokee - Page 6 Questions & Answers

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0743 This one page has a very good read on your code. I think you will find it helpful.

engine stalls. are 99% failure to do tuneups? every 60k miles ,the least. no engine stated. there are more than one opted. can not help on zero engine posts.

no engine stated, there are 3 . which one, each works different. p1 means factory code, never use other makers codes for P1xxx ever, use JEEP. rule 1 , stated. never use google to look them up, unless filtered hard for JEEP & engine exact ! rule 2 stated i state this because others read this stuff...... just sold my 99, (owned many a jeep) mine was I6 -4.0L engine. 1382, factory code, no engine, stated or tranny stated. who pulled this code? you, autozoned or? i cant find it. try alldata.com make real sure its 1382, look again, and some scan tools (most the cheap ones) can get factory P1 codes right. a rule 3 thing. i see google shows near nothing, so that tells me your code is bad i do google to see if others had it... i do but dont trust 99% of the answers. scan it with a real scan tool you can rent them dirt cheap. some are loaned at the major car parts stores, nice ones.

no engine option stated. displacement and cyl. count I6 , V6, I4? are you asking all ways 1072 can happen? all this is in the FSM. read it. but here is the bar stool answer. warring do not use non jeep P1 codes P1 is Jeep only !!!!! do not let autozoned, tell you what the code means, they are clerks. and not trained. (if they did it, you didnt say what tool pulled the code) i can tell you transposed the 1 and 0, there is no 1072. so its actually the very common and unversal EPA, P0172. billions of posts on that www. P0 means federal codes. a standard so we look that up, , and is the error for fuel time , too rich. so i can see you looked it up and got that right but posted wrong dtc. no problem. i can go further but not with no engine options stated. ....... the I4, I6 and V6 are all different beasts. but can say (pure physics and EFI knowledge) that: 1: the O2 is bad, bank 1 sensor one,Front, or if v6 , bank1, sensor one the bank that is #1 cylinder , front is bad or 2: engine is running way too rich for 50 reasons, (tests find it) other sensors bad, mech, eng. issues, leaking injectors, endless....ask 3: exhaust leaks near Sensor 1. there are the top 3. what tech might do, is replace the 02 , on suspension. its older than 100k miles so , bingo its listed in the service sched. he goes to change it and see the bank header cracked, dang. example 2, near endless story , ask..... i run the scan tool and look at all sensor data. see what is right and wrong. there are some tricks too, to force lean and see if B1S1 wakes up. ask

Sounds like the key switch or a main relay is faulty.

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level. Use starting fluid to aid starting.

what does it do , good and bad. if any thing. dead is it and all other modes work on wiper, do they?? check all fuses. on both fuse boxes . endless post..... that....\

it a factory options, this, if not, then its aftermarket hacks. the 2008 is first year, for OEM remote starts. IIRC if true a hack, then find who made it and get their books. full documentation, if not found rip it out and try something that works and is documented. fully. some are dangerous... here is a selection of hack systems. NON OEM. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Remote-Car-Start-/33724/i.html?_dcat=33724&mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&_nkw=1999%20Jeep%20Cherokee&selfil=1%2C2%2C3&selvel=1999~Jeep~Cherokee~-~- getting it to work right takes , picking one that is legal, and safe. and reliable, and and installer that knows wire NUTS dont cut it. etc. id never do this to my primary wiring on any car. and know how! post the make, brand , and unit partnumber, or a photo of the main box label. and hope is possible.....

did you check all fuses? yet? in both boxes? first off the schematic (516pages) is here. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service so you look any time and see why. ill direct you to the pages. the radio too can be complex. ext. amps. ill assume its 100 % DEAD ill do radio dont play in run pos. of ign. sw., (easier) there are 3 Cherokees, gas, desiel and export. so> and ENGINE! size so every page is repeated 3 time. you sort that 6 fuses involved here, just for the freaking radio but fuse 17 is the key fuse. see that. and the marking RUN-ACC A31 , in JB (bad A31 power feed is the prob) fuse 17 marked, X12-16rd/wt fuse 18 kills windows. and is A31 feed too.. hummmmm are both fuses blown, might check that..????? so we look now at A31 (fuse 17 and 18 measure 0ohms with meter) A31 goes to the Ignition switch, USA RHD GAS car, is most complex and the first section of the switch has a pin3 to pin4 jumper. this jumper allows A31 power feed to reach the things you find are dead. see page 8w-10-15 or pdf 35 see pdf page 240 for radio wires. so what is wrong, i dont know, but my voltmeter will tell min in 1min flat got 12v on the A32 feed? yes, then F17 -18 blown. if not the jumper is bad in the ign. switch

wrong, it dont crank in park. no car starts (A/T) unless it cranks first. bad PRNDL switch on side of tranny is bad. get a new one. or start in neutral till that contact fails.

double posted. ok the FSM covers this, doing it and not causing damage is no so easy. Plastic breaks so easy. some parts are pull off and others are screws. you only have 3 choices. 1: pry and try. 2: practice in a wrecking yard, 3: read the FSM (alldata.com under body section) not only that ,, some have heater damper motors or vacuum slaves. the fsm is here. click the body and HVAC sections. 04 cherokee http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

double posted, backup one.

Which fuse box diagram are you looking for? There are two fuse boxes in your Jeep. The diagrams will not tell you anything that the diagram in the lid of the fuse box will not tell you. What are you trying to fix? If you are have some type of electrical problem, you are not likely to fix the problem by replacing the fuse.Please also review this article:Where's The Fuse?

hello Dennis. (no miles stated) what engine, 4.0L I6 2.5L? I4 ever tuned it up? all spark and filters, the 60k mile, ever? this post is random engine stalls? so does it stall hot or cold or both does it stall moving, right foot planted, cruisng or only parked, or only as you come to a stop do dash lamps/gauges or? go out before the stall? (look) CEL off running.. ok, no DTCs stored if USA car. is it? my guess is this stall can happen hot or cold engine. location not in klondike (location not stated, so wild guess.) hot stalls, ? 1 lets say coming to a stop. is very common EGR sticking open 2 never tuned up, ever or even the last decade? 3: ISC/iIAC sticking closed, jeeps love to do that any I4 , its a big issue. the idle stepper motor cone gets gummed up, clean it. i clean both my jeeps, I4 ISC like 100 times since 1988. 4: bad TPS. but usually it throws DTC'S for this. if driven hard) some I6' have no EGR valve. PCM has no EGR pins.! you can monitor DC power at the CIG lighter, to see if power drops at stall, easy, 13.3v to 15v is normal or ALT system is dead.. make sure the Automatic shut down relay is not being shut down by PCM (DB/YL wire) goes to 12v is shut down, 0v is not. the PCM can cut the ASDR for may reasons, oil pressure or battery overheat,? many, best it to find out of this RELAY is dropping EFI off LINE. IT can . lets do stalls. i see tachometer drop below 800 RPM hot . i try to save the stall, ISC stuck closed, and my right foot opens throttle instictively and i save the stall. easy, that is loss of air. see why? on mine the stupid, ISC/.IAC works like this the PCM remembers to ISC positions (stepper) one cold start and one hot start (a secret i learned) it then looks at water temps and guess (math) at a best start position. if it used hot ISC for a COLD start the engine will want to flood due to valve mostly closed, from last hot shut down,. so floods, use right foot 10% , so i cant comment on what it might be until you state (displacement) the engine temps. at fail the operational mode, parked, stopping or between 5speed mt shifts. or what? if it fails parked in drive way. or only moving or only coasting. stalls on the fly? im online at alldata.com and there are 16pages for PCM only. this car the PCM controls the Alternator, (a software reg) now another tack. the car in usa, as OBD2, i connect my scan tool and log, i drive and log. car stalls i drive home ,play back my logs, and bingo i see what happens at the stall, all sitting at my desk. warm and dry. lost comms,?. is DC power lost. Pending DTCS real live DTCS some DTCS auto clear, at die. some PCMs will reset the CKP or CMP sensor or spark failures. so can only be seen live. (watching, 1 more secret) now Bar stool answsers (any EFI car) ever tune it up, ever do the 60K>? if not why not now? lost spark, see if spark is being lost at stall, (at all plugs) bad fueling, (too high or low fuel pressure at stall) loss of air (ISC/IAC failed) EGR (if there) stuck wide open, if the engine runs perfect at most times, its probably ok so is bad spark or fuel spark is first. but not if never tuned up. fueling is last to check , as PCM cuts fuel with spark failure sensed. bad fueling can be bad injection or total loss of air supple , at idle.

Hi. The trailer has a shot in the wiring and blew your Jeep lights. Check for fuse in fuse box near battery or inside Jeep under dash and replace it.

Sounds like a bad ground. When it wont start run a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to a good ground on the motor and try the body also. Rule that out first.

may be static ,,, so turn off ign and all electrics and disconnect battery for ten minuites ,,,,, then reconnect and make sure you have a radio code before you do it ,,,,