20 Most Recent 1999 Jeep Cherokee - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Do you have a bad starter? also check for loose or dirty battery cables on both ends of cables as the starter does take a lot of pull and a dirty or loose cable won't give it the power to start but will let the lights work.

front or rear, wow , i must guess end of car..(ive dont both 4wd) and wow 2 , 2wd or 4wd? 2wd its a font spindle or , 4wd prop shaft axle front hub, etc) so the book is free to read, and then stated on line step in the book you get lost? lots of steps. so.>>>>> here is the book. 1999 XJ ? http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service read the manual? chapter 2 and 3 and brakes. get it all.

wow you asked 2 times in 3 years. that is an all time first here.... wow. ok backup and see your newest answer ,your 2015 post. it was here all the time. http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service WJ, click wiring.

Piggybacked 99 XJ from 2014 DEC. ok. no biggie.but what car, same? XJ up to 2001?op my guess he blew fuse 9 or 16i bet the self test failed with the OP's car.but lets talk your car, is it a 99 XJ?the FSM covers this.here is the full answer here. see instrument pages, read.http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/cluster-hack.htmlthe used head will not work it has the wrong VIN stored inside it other tricks are here, including ASD stalls. and free books.http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/jeeps.html1999 XJ? facts on head, pdc fuse 16 blown?cab fuse 9 blown?self test fails.?now the hard wired warn LAMPS just this one year 99seat beltsand low washer fluidABS fail. brake warn. or hand brake engagedchime inputs. hard wired.tURNS (L/r) active and high beam.illumination (back ground glows) works, hard wired TOO.DEAD LIST.all else will be dead if COMMs are lost or fuses out. depends on which fuse is dead, if both blown all warns dead and gauges.meters all dead. with loss of comm and some warns below.cel dead.upshift deadlow fuel dead or stuck (stuck on or off is still dead)the photo below shows why meters diewhen comm LINK dies. or 12v power to head.

There are 4, two coils are part of the front strut assemblies, and two coils are part of the rear shock absorber assemblies. In general, rear coils fail more often than front.

Try checking fuel injector. Try checking compression. Is the engine running ok, maybe you're getting a bad code, if so you need to find out how to clear it, sorry I can't help you with that. Good luck

you mean the springs or shoes or the whole works? If you only took one side apart you can use the other side as a guide.

redux. 20 questions: (designed or hacked?)what country, 2wd got you .what drive line is in car.what model, , laredo, or Limited, "harness diffs"when do you want unstated lamps to glow?keyon or off?parks on?or fogs on?or when and when not, (eg key off, not?)how may amps, from unk, lamps, 0.6ampsare they pointing front or rear.?lots of questions but I answer for legal too.not just some hack job.yes, the car will be rife with extra plugs. all cars do.but all extras will be dead. read on.the FSM was posted 100 times, i say that because not one post here ever reads it first. on this car the BCM (brain) runs the lightingand if you need dead options to work, you need to reprogram it. (dealer only)if all you need is park say so....more facts, the car is sold new with many harnesses. based on option packages.and country,, and even your STATE.the BCM can cover state rules, better, now...via programming logic....let me pretend, that the parking lights are a good choice, sure as at the tiny 0.6amp 600mA load is nothing...and will work heads on or parks on.so where are the jacks for that.well chapter 8w-50 covers all that. did you even look.?now i posted the page. can you at least look there>?find the park wire, that is easiest for youand tap it. so finding a post on line with exact same carsame 2wd, same missing options, you think your unstated hack will match up?why think that.?you have not even stated what it does yet, when. post logic function.like this, all i want to do is glow some tiny lights in park.more questions? (harness variances too)got DRL? daylight running light option (canada for sure)got ALH option auto head lights.got fog option if not the fuse ,relay and BCM programming are missing.page 8L-1 shows all options. read that? chapter "LAMPS"see the BLK/PK (black-pink wire)that is park.tap that end story.or tap the black-yellow wire at park relaythere are vast park wires in car.which one is closest to your new lights, ive not a clue. (not stated yet)not even direction.here is the real FSM. "USA"http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service8w chapters covers all wiring. every inch"wiring"there the whole story, lacking usage and logic.

old post. sorryboth fobs?posted over 100 times here.here we go again,. ever do searches?http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#servicesee wiring. and locks.

Check the idle sensor module for proper operation

old post but is asked many times. now a photo.

Sometimes the problem has been the ignition switch power to starter. If you have checked that, then: This procedure usually works: ·Check the battery cable connections: Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine. Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. ·Check the battery the simple way, like this: Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok. ·Check the starter and solenoid: If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking). If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's pinion gear is stuck. Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck pinion gear. ·Make a simple test of the alternator: If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.

The pump for it on the bottom of the washer reservoir may be bad, or the wire may have got unplugged. The rear washer has its own separate reservoir and pump. If the pump for the front works, the lines may be plugged. Good luck.

linckage prob

Thermostat in cooling System , first thing to check.

do not drive part time 4wd on pavement free of ice it NOT AWD . the operators guide told you that, lost it? only for off road and very slippery ice surfaces

Lots of things can cause the car to not start. Doe's the engine turn over fast or slower than normal? Could be a weak battery. If the engine turns over fast but will not start, it sounds like the fuel mixture is too lean and needs an adjustment. Maybe the best thing to do is get a tuneup at the dealer. Hope this helps.

great.

Those two codes refer to a problem of digital communication between the Powertrain Control Module and the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (1686) and between the Powertrain Control Module and the Instrument Cluster (1687). The action taken of removing a plug from the BCM may have caused one or both of those codes. You would do well to disconnect the battery for a few seconds, then touch the two battery wires together (having removed both clamps from the battery), then reconnect the clamps to the battery. Then drive the vehicle and see if the same codes are still present. If they are then I would find the communication bus wires (which are distinguished by being a pair of wires twisted around each other for their entire length) at the plugs for the PCM, the cluster, the BCM, and SKIM module and with the use of an ohmmeter or continuity tester then check that all the pins of the disconnected plugs that carry those wires are connected to one another (using the wire colors to identify the pin connections to verify continuity. Try gently flexing the wires while checking for continuity to detect a loose connection at each of the pins. If the connections prove out, then I believe that it would be prudent to find a good shop which can use a diagnostic readout box to determine if the problem is the PCM, the cluster, or the SKIM module. It is too expensive to buy a module without proof that you have a bad one.