20 Most Recent 1987 Jeep Cherokee - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The 4.0 engine has non-adjustable hydraulic lifters. The rocker arms are torqued to 19 foot lbs. No further adjustment is necessary.
If you have valve clatter it is likely due to worn pivots on the rockers or a worn cam lobe.
I would also check the valve springs (rare but they can break), oil pressure (low pressure from worn bearings or obstructed pickup screen) as that can cause lifter noise as well. If all is good, sometimes using an additive like marvel or lucas oil treatment will quiet them down.

hello, sounds like something is unpluged, dash lights have small bulbs in the basils, they do not normally blow, do you have the wright tail light bulbs in , they are not all the same, i would check them first, if you had to , you could run a jumper wire from your parking light in front to the rear tailights, just the running light only, there is two or three wires that run to tailights, you might could try that, friend of mine has done that,

The standard areas to look would be on the crankshaft pulley, or the flywheel, and occasionally the crankshaft it's self

the best thing to do is go online to www.autozone.com look for ignition switch repair.

To do that, you need to remove the tire, brake drum and the brake shoes and hardware. After that's done, remove the steel line connecting the cylinder to the system then the two small bolts that hold it to the backing plate. Use a flair nut wrench on the line fitting or it is easy to round it off.
If it does not come out, cut it off at the line and use a socket over the fitting, then remove the line as well and replace it along with the cylinder.
After installing, open the small bleed screw and have someone gently push down on the brake pedal. close the screw, release the pedal. Repeat as many times as necessary till no air comes out. I suggest you do the same on the other rear wheel as well. While bleeding, make sure that the master cylinder does not run dry or you will need to start all over. If you never have done that work before, it is good to have a chilton, haynes or other basic manual on hand to guide you but you can also look at the brakes on the other wheel if you forget where or how it goes back together.
Good luck

First I would say less than a $1000 would have repaired your original issues,assuming there were several. How was it running and did the current problem start after all the work was done? Also, what you invested in money and parts ,I hope went to fix different issues.

How about when you hit the accelerator when its in neutral? How does the engine perform then? there could be a lot of possibilities at this point. what was reason for old engine being taken out and how many miles? did you use same injectors everything else? Once I have more information I can try and assist you further.
Thank you,
Lee

open hood two bolts are holding headlight assem in remove bolts then pull straight out on assem there is a ball and socket fitting behind assem that is why you have to pull some

That depends on what was ordered when it was bought. if you have a question about which brakes are on it measure the drum diameter and the shoe width and match that to available parts listed. Or bring one set to the parts house when buying the new ones and physically match them.

well, it will with the headlights on..... do you mean it loses a charge if parked, or driving it, the battery goes dead? if parked over night and its dead, there is a draw somewhere, make sure theres no dome light or glove box light on, cell phone charger, ect. A shop will need to verify the battery and altenator are good before doing a "parasitic draw test".... the max it should draw is 250ma.

go to salvage yard or dealer(yuk) to replace part

t/b will usually not cause this as there is no way for it to get into the oil from there. do i leak down test on the cylinders to check the condition of your rings. most of the time that is where the fuel is getting in.

Check the brake light switch.

That unit should be right next to the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. Generally they get a bit carbon fouled on the plunger end and inside the passageway leading to it. BUT, it is not a sensor.... it takes its direction from the computer, which is reacting to info gathered from other sensors. Therefore, if after cleaning, the problem remains, you will need to check each of the other sensors carefully for proper operation. Also...when cleaning, don't loose the small "o" ring, and do not turn the plunger.

Follow your top rad hose back to engine. Should be a housing with usually 2 bolts attaching it to engine, thermostat should be behind it.
You didn't say what engine, but this is usually a pretty good bet.

Headlight switch is probably bad. It is relatively easy to change and a cheap part.

The fuse box it located by the driver's side door under the dash. 2 long screws hold it in and it tells you what fuse goes where right on the box

Your engine is stumbling "off idle" - as it switches from idle to throttle control. The idle air motor regulates the air flow and engine speed at idle. If the idle is smooth but the stumble occurs just as the throttle is pressed this isn't the problem, The MAP sensor is mounted in the middle of the firewall behind the engine just below the hood. It has to sense the manifold vacuum drop when the throttle is opened. This my first suspect. Second would be the fuel pressure regulator. If it runs O.K. after you get it going, this is a weak suspect unless it loses power when pulling. A bad fuel pump, again low fuel pressure. Just like the squirt from the accelerator pump in the carburetor days, the injectors have to deliver a good stiff shot of fuel when the throttle opens to keep the engine from stumbling. The MAP sensor will tell the ECM a squirt is needed but the fuel system has to have the pressure to deliver.

dont remember fi they're metric but hardware store bolts will work there...remove another and bring it with you. (clutch hat uses grade 8 bolts that's why I asked.