20 Most Recent 1997 Isuzu Trooper - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If the warning light is CHECK ENGINE, take your vehicle to your local Autozone. They will hook a scanner up to it for free and tell you what the code is. If you post the alarm code on this website, you will get a description back of what the potential problems are.

you dont say if this car is loosing water out of the coolent.white smoke points to a cyclinder head gasket ,if you could let me know more i will help you.adrian

Dont throw it off a cliff just yet :-) Just check the vacuum line from the inlet manifold back to the transmission, ensure that fittings are air tight and that there are no holes in the line.
Explanation for possible fix:- When the car is at idle the inlet manifold plenum has a reasonably high vacuum generated within it. The vacuum line to the transmission conveys this drop in pressure to the shift solenoid. When you accelerate slowly you hardly open the throttle and the vacuum remains high in the system. The solenoid allows early shifts through to the higher gears. If you accelerat hard the throttle is open wide and hardly any vacuum is maintained. The shift solenoid, in the absence of vacuum in the line, now holds each gear for much longer allowing the engine to use its full power band.
If the inlet plenum suffers from an air leak or the vacuum line to the transmission becomes loose or a leak develops in it the solenoid reads this as if the car is accelerating hard and wants to hold each gear for as long as possible. This situation sounds like your problem so check that everything is free of any possible leak. If you find a leak and cure it not only will the shift pattern be fixed but your engine idle will be much better too.

There isn't one. You need to climb under it and remove side filler plug on trans (with vehicle warmed up and on level ground) Correct level = dribble of trans fluid from fill hole.

there compressed in you have to take to shop for them to air compess it off.

get access to the back of the lighter, the wire usual just clips on and you push it out from the back, may be some set clips

Could be the (PCV) Purge Control Valve, and its located on your Valve cover with a hose going to the Intake manifold. Good luck

If you take the vehicle to an autozone, advance auto or some other retail places that have parts counters, they will hook up a scanner and tell you what the codes are that are causing the Check Engine Light (CEL)-come back on here to get directions on what to do next.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

The heater core is leaking, it could be the hose to the core check that first. it is located at the firewall under the hood

Radiator can't handle the load.. Just make sure the fans are pulling air... One way to see if the radiator is at fault is to try turning the heater on high... If the temps stay cooler the radiator has had it. Turning the heater on in emergency is good to know so I hope this helps.

Wish the best with the chemo... will be praying for her.

A flashing check engine light is usually caused by a misfire. I'm guessing that the engine is running a little rough? Some things you can check are the spark plugs and wires. You can check the wires by spraying them down with soapy water and seeing if they leak.

If the engine is misfiring you can pull each spark plug wire or coil off of the spark plug one at a time with the engine running to see if the engine runs worse or stays the same. Be careful cause you can get zapped by 40,000 + volts and it can tickle a bit. Once you find the cylinder that doesn't change how the engine runs you can focus on that wire and spark plug. Look for carbon tracking on the plug itself. It will look like a dark black line running down the plug and the porcelain will be slightly erodded under it. If you see this you will need to change the plug and wire. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

heater control valve on in line to heater core near firewall. Faulty and replace or mechanical part has come loose or broken. Worst case senario is that heater core is clogged

well replacing fuses are a waste, there has to be a short in that system. its possible that the wiper motor is no good

Things that go wrong on this propshaft:
Centre bearing. A bearing mounted in a rubber housing in the centre of the vehicle. Inspect the rubber for cracking and tearing. Replace if worn. The bearing itself rarely wears out before the rubber mount.
Universal joints - there are 3, one at the differential in the rear of the car, one at the center bearing and one at the transmission in the front of the car. When worn you will hear a distinct metal "clunk" when taking up drive on pull-away. Check by gripping the shaft either side of the joint and twisting eah side in opposite directions. There should be absolutely no play in the joint. Replace if worn.
Whenever a joint is replaced it is nescesary to have the shaft balanced again.

Check the large cable on the alternator to make sure it has 12 volts on it with the engine not running,if it does not,then this is the problem,running a new one to the positive side of the battery to this terminal on the alternator will solve the problem.

Most automobile front are floating. I believe yours are.
They collect dust, and they rust on, so... take a heavy hammer and give it a really good hit. Now make sure that the truck is well supported.
Two hits, should make it frree.