20 Most Recent 1994 Isuzu Pickup Questions & Answers

The fuel pump is mounted to the underside of the intake manifold where it bolts onto the cylinder head (real pain to get to). If you remove the fuel pump there is a plastic spacer between the pump and the manifold (DO NOT LOOSE IT).
Good luck
MIKESTA

name one lamp dead.! oif the many. lots of lamps. and you did blow a fuse. or cut a wire. for sure. if only the speed o illumination is dead. then the park fuse is blown or you turned the illum dial down on dash knob. (a feature) some cars(vast) have 2 fuse boxes some 3. so find all of them yet. if usa car, then alldata.com has these facts, ever read books or online real FSM on your car, its all there, no need to ask, or wonder. RTM but do name just one lamp.... we cant guess that.

must be 4ZD1 engine with carb?ok, so why tell the full story or job so we can be on same page.1: distributor pulled.2: or just messed up timing,3: or just scrambled the wires? on top of cap to plugs?4: all 3?rules:need to know rotor direction, crank it to see.need to know where #1 is, its front front.need to set the distrib. so that #1 rotor location is at #1 wire, and crank is at $1 firing and that both #1 valves are closed.number 1 TDC on all engines, is the timing spec.now you ask where is #1 right>?#1; is the most forward cylinder , in inline and V engines.forward means, the CAM driven end.it's not reset , its calibrated, using a timing light withthe the timing freeze jumper inserted.(EFI)------------------------------------------------if removed. the distrb. worse case.there is static timing stepsand then dynamic (fine tuned ) with the timing light.in general all 4 bankers. with dizzy1: set crank to #1 firing both #1 valves closedand lash loose. if lash is wrong, get that right first. Clearance is 0.006 in. (0.15mm) for intake and 0.010 (0.25mm) for exhaust.2: next insert the distributor so such thatthe 4 HV lugs are up and that the rotor points to the correct inside cap terminal, #1.use a ohm meter to find #1 cap terminal if that was lost too?.3: lock down the distributor, it is now crudely time to #1 firing4: use the Timing light now to set timing.is different on EFI from CARB.you never said if its either.alldata.com has this.but you need to go to correct section, carb or EFI.and read there.

I just repaired my '94 and it had similiar problems. Too much fuel was flowing through the carb. Mileage dropped way off.

I rebuilt the carb but the real problem was a bent tang on the float. This resulted in the failure of the needle valve to close completely, regardless of the float level.

Unlike French cars which tend to use number four cylinder as the timing cylinder, almost everyone else including Isuzu use the traditional number one as the timing cylinder, not that for practical purposes it matters very much as it is a simple matter to discover which cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke and then fit the distributor with the rotor pointing at the distributor cap segment for that cylinder. It is the direction of distributor rotation that confuses people more than anything as many rotate anti-clockwise although I believe the one you are working with rotates clockwise. Another problem with many traditional distributor installations is they often share the oil pump drive which must both be aligned before the distributor will successfully slide home and then because of the skew-type drive gear the distributor turns considerably on the way in and then the rotor is found to be misaligned. The apprentice mechanic soon learns to anticipate and allow for these things. If the same distributor is being refitted it is best to make alignment marks to cut the amount of time and effort. Few engines require the removal of the distributor for routine timing belt replacement and usually all that is needed is an ignition timing check with a stroboscope.

Chockblock front wheels to prevent truck rolling, and jack vehicle up and place a jackstand under frame to prevent vehicle falling. Remove driveshaft, seal is now visible to be pried out for new one to be lightly tapped into place with a rubber mallet or hammer, along with a wooden block, taking care to keep new seal straight while replacing. replace driveshaft and check fluid level, lower vehicle and remove chockblocks.

drop rear prop shaft pop out seal put in new. the back shaft. is this your first seal ever, you never said. if never done. read the pages on TIMKEN seals, (maker top) read all the ways to mess up a new seal ,etc. lots. read the steps here yet? http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

Some clutches can be fearsomely difficult to bleed successfully. In cases of difficulty it is worth trying reverse bleeding... Connect the clutch bleeder and the nearest brake bleeder together with some well-fitting tubing, open both bleed screws and have an assistant pump the brake pedal. Make certain the brake reservoir is kept topped up and remove excess fluid from the clutch reservoir before it overflows. Half a dozen pumps usually is sufficient, hold the pedal down and close both bleed screws.

Before you start playing around with the carb settings I suggest you check the fuel pressure and set it to the minimum in the specs by adding gaskets between the pump and engine. Next ensure the carburettor float level is also set to the minimum height listed in the specs and the choke or strangler is working and adjusted as it should be. While you have the carb top off for the float level it would be a good idea to check the jet sizes against specs just to be certain the carb was refurbished for the right vehicle being operated at the right altitude. If you find any discrepancies you need to talk to the refurbishers. Next it would be wise to ensure the other parts of the engine are at peak efficiency; spark plugs, high tension leads, distributor cap and rotor arm, ignition timing including the automatic ignition advances if any are fitted and the valve clearances if they are adjustable. If you can adjust it or clean it to make it better then do it, including the pcv system. If you are running on budget engine oil a change to a premium quality oil could make enough difference to get a pass and so could a new thermostat if the engine isn't reaching proper operating temperature. In an emission controlled area fuel mixture adjustment screws are supposed to be sealed with little plastic plugs to make them tamper-proof. Most carburettors have them even though they can't be seen but from time-to-time adjustments do need to be carried out and the little plastic or aluminium plugs must be removed and adjustments made with suitable measuring equipment and then new tamperproofing fitted. A carb cannot be preset accurately on a test-rig because each engine will have slightly different requirements. I suggest you find a specialist with a long grey beard and a long memory to give your vehicle those all-important fine adjustments. Good luck!

Are you certain that the flasher is the problem? What are the symptoms?

You can get away with not having them, being a 94. But you won't get the best gas mileage it could have. Just make sure all the vacuum ports are blocked.

ill look up the specs to see if they are adjustable valve clearance like the 4 cyl petrol engine. if they are adjustable ill give you the clearances recommended if they happen to be hydraulic the best bet is a engine oil and filter change and with any luck that alone will help it out some what. may also be a idea with the engine running remove the oil filler cap and see visually that there is ample oil being splashed around rockers and cam shaft etc. hope to be able to help you with your problem

there has been a mistake,that was not my car.my car is the hhr that had the engine light on.

double posted. what dont work, "????? (switch fails block cranking?) and still posting a Chevy to Isuzu forum, my guess, you have this option? 5-speed F35 (MU3) manual 5-speed Getrag F23 manual a stick shift ?

a chebby Isuzu? LOL your info is lacikng, what is wrong? , always post what dont work, or the symptoms my wild guess, is your car like mine a manual transmission and the clutch pedal is messed up, right,? on mine you remove the connector , unscrew it , replace it and do the calibration. steps in the FSM. what part of the steps, do you get stuck, (finding it or the cal part) the steps are here to, alldata.com log in and read them. or tell where stuck.? (point) can look it up for you,if need be.

in what country?, welcome to the www. nobody can guess that.. in the USA< we dont have Isuzu dealers they are GONE. used on EBAY google all day. or here (USA) http://www.isuzu.com/owners_service.jsp first goggle hit, plain text search. more facts. some cars have more Freon. due to having aftermarket hoses, longer or more I.D. the volume varies, as will pressure at any volume. the solution to finding this is testing. and the top way to do this is get it all out first then put in all R134 or duracool 12. then work from facts.

near impossible if not modified for remote starts, was it? if not that, the key switch is mangled. takes double failure for that to happen , in side the switch.

Under the intake on the block on most models.

There are 3 options with engine codes after the size.
2.3L -LW3
2.6L -4ZE1
3.1L -Z