20 Most Recent 1990 Isuzu Trooper - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Check ignition timing

could be the battery is old and losing power, ie not enough to turn the starter motor fast enough to start. Or the starter motor itself is worn and will not turn fast enough, ensure the connections to the battery and starter are good. if the battery is older than 5 years i would be a good idea to replace with an new one of the same power rating and size. in winter it is often the case that old cold batteries do not perform well. if with a new battery the problem persists, remove the starter motor and have it checked, if it is defective it would have have to be removed to install a replacement. one way to check battery power is to try and start the motor with the headlights on if the lights dim down a lot when trying to start that indicates the battery is low on power. i hope this was useful.

why not login in to mitchell DIY, (goggle it ) and read. or go to any online, 4L30 parts house and read. lots of those, can all found easy using "GOOGLE" here. search, (4L30 parts) 3rd hit MAKCO see the graphic there, click it. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/4L30E.html you need to remove the TC, bolts first the bell housings bolts to the engine, those come off, with tranny jack in place. all the steps are in the service manual. 4wd. quote (a wall of text, why not buy the book?) & Transfer Case Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal 4L30-E Transmission 4L30-E Transmission(removal Print 4L30-E Transmission Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses NOTE The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission housing. Although the 2 cases can be separated, the transfer case should be removed with the transmission. Use a felt-tipped marker to matchmark the hood to the hood hinges. Remove the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Shift the transmission into the N position, and the transfer case into the 2H position. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the transfer case shift knob. Remove the 4 transmission cover console retaining screws. Remove the center console assembly and disengage the console switch wiring connectors. Disconnect the shift lock cable and the shift control rod from the selector lever assembly. Unbolt and remove the transfer case control lever. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the transmission and transfer case skid plates. Remove the exhaust pipe protectors. Drain the transmission fluid. For more information servicing the transmission fluid pan and filter, refer to Section 1. Label and detach the oxygen sensor connectors. Remove the catalytic converter, center exhaust pipe and front exhaust pipe, as described in Section 3. Matchmark the front and rear driveshafts to the differential and transfer case flanges. Unbolt and remove the front and rear driveshafts, as described later in this section. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the brackets securing the oil cooler lines to the engine stiffener. Remove the front suspension crossmember. Remove the dipstick and tube. Disconnect the breather hoses from the tube. Remove the 5 engine stiffener bracket bolts and the stiffener bracket. Remove the heat protector. Disengage the transmission harness connectors and the mode switch harness connector from the engine harness. Disconnect the harness clamp from the clamp bracket. Disconnect the ground cable from the engine. Remove the starter motor, as described in Section 2. Remove the flexplate inspection cover. Remove the 3 bolts securing the flexplate to the torque converter. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to all 3 bolts. NOTE Remove the radiator upper fan shroud and the cooling fan to access the crankshaft center bolt to turn the crankshaft. Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission and transfer case unit for support. Raise the transmission slightly and remove the 8 bolts securing the rear mount and the transmission crossmember. NOTE Make sure the engine and transmission assembly is properly supported before removing the rear mount and third crossmember. Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts. Separate the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission from the vehicle. end removal quote

yes auto or manual vehicles must have the flex plate (Auto), flywheel (Man) installed in correct position while engine is at top dead centre cylinder 1 firing. flywheel has notch in it which goes at 6 o Clock when looking at back of engine & flex plate has notch go at 12 o clock.

Did they check the fuel flow ?, a blocked fuel filter can give a good fuel pressure reading but little or no flow , and cause the problem you are having.

Same if you shift it by hand?

I need isuzu 4hf1 engine workshop manual.If any one got it please send [email protected]

In almost every case the transmission must be torn down and rebuilt to cure this problem. Have a local shop properly diagnose the issue as the rebuild job runs about $2500.00-$3000.00 USD

link explains what it telling you and how it works.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mq3jR-IMNHQAll four wheels are in drive when all four tires are green. Could also be in f wheel drive low. 4x4 low is talked about also at the end of the video. You do not want to be driving at high speeds in 4x4 low, at lease with the 4x4 I have owned.

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Dear sir, we're one of the biggest producer of The piston calipers in Iran,now we want to produce the tapplet celearance .We need some imformation about it such as : process of produceing,Specifications ,what materials should be use in it,raw maerial..... we are waiting for your kind reply.

I need the year.

No, but I would replace the rotors. Turning them usually winds up getting them warped as soon as they heat up and/or you hit a puddle of water..also, you will need a torque wrench and standard automotive tools, Jack and stands and a vice..

1 Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2 Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3 Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
4 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5 Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.

Once the hub/rotor is removed from the vehicle the wheel bearings may be cleaned and repacked or the bearings and races may be replaced. For more information, please refer to the wheel bearing procedures in General Information & Maintenance of this manual.

6 Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent.
7 Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts.
8 Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
9 Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed.

To install:
1 With the rotor secured in a vise, attach the wheel hub to the rotor using the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm). Apply 2.12 oz. (60 gm) of grease to the hub before installing.
2 Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor over the spindle.
3 Install the bearings washers and other components. 4 Position the lock washer so the hub cap assembly bolt holes line up properly.
5 Install the spindle washer and nut and secure using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. Preload the bearing to 3.31 lbs. (1.5 kg).
6 Install the inner cam and any shims. Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. 7 Tighten grade M8 bolts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 Nm), tighten grade M10 bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (52-61 Nm).
8 Install the brake caliper.
9 Install the tire and wheel assembly.
10 Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.

-Mostly burning water. Water is enter into the cylinder. Good luck Mai

You may have sustained serious engine damage with the lack of lubrication. Happens.

The glow plugs are in the cylinder head. Remove the plastic cover which hides the camshaft cover, and find the black wire that connects to the common bus which connects all four glow plugs. They should be easy to see once you have the cover off.