20 Most Recent 1990 Isuzu Trooper - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I worked at Dealership which sold these things new. The transmission is notoriously weak...have a transmission shop you trust check it out. I have rebuilt a few of those transmissions,and overdrive is usually the first thing to let go.Don't drive it for long:the contamination running thru the trans.will cause more damage,add to the repair and leave you stranded somewhere.Sorry but I don't think you are getting away cheaplyThe Honda Passport is a Rodeo with a Honda grille.you can still buy some Isuzu mechanical stuff thru Honda stores.Good luck

check the trans. fluid level. the procedure should be in your owners manual. if you cant find the procedure, a good default is to have it in neutral on a level surface with the parking brake on with the engine running. find the dipstick with "trans" or an icon of a gear on it. if it's low, add fluid. when you add fluid, add about a half a quart at a time. and after every time you add, get in, put your foot on the brake and shift back and forth from park to reverse to neutral, to drive a few times, slowly. if you're unsure of what type of fluid to use, ask the boys at the parts counter. if your fluid is not pink/clear red, you're in trouble. if it's brown, dirty, or has flakes in it, your trans is junk.

distributor problem or leads not on the right order

Autozone.com

Depends on the engine. The 4 cylinder firing order is 1,3,4,2. The v6 is 1,2,3,4,5,6.

Bone yard

chilton manule or haynes manule ar the 2 best
chapters or dealer usualy carry them also autozone should be able to order if they dont stock it

Sounds like the tps (throttle position sensor) is either defective, or out of adjustment. Need an oscilloscope to check, so see a mechanic. Could also be vacuum leak. check lines for cracks and leaks

Go to your local "wand type" car wash. The high pressure will work well to clean the oil off. Be prepaired to get dirty. Let the engine cool down for a few minutes then raise the hood and clean the engine as well as under the car all the way to the back. Let it dry for a while. Start the engine and watch for the leak (s). You may have to drive it some to find to find it but don't drive to far between times you stop and check for the leak or you will have to clean it off again. If the leak is as bad as you say I would look at the front & rear main seals or the oil filter first and then the valve cover.

There could be several solutions for this problem.

Check that your battery has a proper level of charge.

You can start diagnosis by ensuring that the vehicle will crank at all, by introducing power from the battery directly to the starter solenoid.

Follow the battery (+) cable down to the starter solenoid, remove it and touch the end to the bolt directly opposite it on the solenoid. The engine should crank, but will not start. If the engine does not crank, you will need a new starter, or charge the battery.

The 1990 Isuzu Trooper with a 2.8L GM engine, the diagnostic connector is located directly beneath the coin try in the front of your center console!!
Along with the typical OBD connector is two wires with a spade connector on each, one female and one male. Connect the two wires to display the diagnostic codes on your check engine lamp on the instrument cluster panel.
As for finding out your codes meanings, go to your nearest public library and locate a 1990 Trooper service manual.
 

i helped you last night with the hose! well thats very wierd it won't start! did you check to make sure you didn't knock any wires lose? you will need to back track your work. pay very good attention to the disturber area and it connection. but i can say this that aint easy to knock off. i always have trouble taking them off when i have to repair something and a connector is needed to be renmoved. but you never know. you will need to have very good light and check everything twice. but like i said look at the distubtor very good!

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do yourself a favor 200 bucks is a fair price for this job i would pay the money and cut your losses some battles are not worth fighting ....good luck

that is the bypass heater hose that leads to the heater core. no you will not need to remove intake. you can replace it with over the counter heater hose from you local parts store. it comes 5/0 and 3/4" hose. hose and two hose clamps you will be fine. just chase it from the housing to the firewall where it goes into the heater core.

let me know if you have any more question. good luck and happy thanksgiving.

Check both radiator hoses and make sure the clamps are tighten, next look around the water pump area to see if it is leaking/losing coolant at the intake manifold gasket, the best way to see where it is coming from is to follow the steam, after you start the vehicle and let it warm up, leave the hood open and watch to see where it forms. The radiator is half dry because you are losing water somewhere and brown gunk is from using the Dexcool brand antifreeze and running the car with low coolant levels at higher engine temperatures, just flush it out with 50% distilled water and 50% vinegar then replace with any green antifreeze

replace the radiator because it will fail eventualy,temporary sealer job is mustard powder or egg white (raw) or a bottle of the ready made for the job sealer .If its a hole on the top header tank and its copper then it can be soldered up,if its plastic then use araldite .But best option is to renew the rad .

Having a charging voltage of 13.5 - 14.1 volts is a normal range, your alternator is working properly.

It would appear your thermostat is stuck in a open position. Good luck this is an easy fix. Go ahead and change your coolant while changing the thermostat; use a new gasket too. Total cost for this will be under $20.
Please let me know if this assisted you.
Thanks,
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