20 Most Recent 2002 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 3 Questions & Answers

replace filter and fluid first. shift solenoid may not need replacement.

in the absence of car manual, fill initially with one liter/qrt of transmission fluid. check for leaks and start engine. with transmission in park, slowly add transmission fluid with engine at idle. constantly monitor transmission fluid level with vehicle on level position until fluid level in "cold", then drive vehicle approximately for one mile until fluid is warmed up or hot. recheck fluid level with engine idling and on park. Add if necessary until fluid level in Hot position in dip stick. then your done. write down how much fluid you added for future reference.

Need more information. Could be fuel pump, fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor. Starter??

Automatic transmission ?? Check engine lamp illuminated ?? Cold engine idle speed ?? Warm engine idle speed ?? IAC (Idle air control) system operation ?? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

tuned up is it, (spark parts, filters?) stalls? hot and cold or only cold. or due to stalling cold can never get engine hot to 180F.? there are over 50 causes, the tests are 10x less. 1: can you save the stall with a fast right foot.??????? and what size engine?

We had the same problem with a 2002 Rodeo. The transmission must be replaced. But keep in mind the Powertrain Warranty (yes this does cover the transmission) on 2000-2003 Rodeo's is 10yr/120,000 miles. Call 800-255-6727 with your vin# and they will verify. Good luck!

2nd answer,same question,check your fluid

power steering fluid needs to be filled

Hi there. Your problem is that the key dont turn, i had the same trouble and I fix't like this: First, be sure that the lever of the transmision is in the Parking position and move´t a little becouse the car have a safety lock. That should do the trick. If you still having problems, send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I will make a video for you with mi Isuzu doing the same problem and showing the way to temporaly solving´t. About the real solution will be like this: You need to se an transmision expert, becouse the problem is a cable that works pulling over the safety lock and its conected to the transmision lever. Another cause is the key, becouse of the use it will be getting older just like the ignition switch, but even with that I can get my car running. But even with this the safety lock, its for me, the main cause. Greetings.

Hi, i'll need a bit more info to be able to give you an opinion , am i correct in assuming the "new kenwood " is a radio/cd player ? If so do you have a car phone or a hands free kit for your mobile/cell phone ? Assuming the kenwood is a radio the mute wire has to be connected to the car phone/mobile hands free kit , this is usually described in the phone installation directions , how the mute system works is when you recieve a call the signal is sent via the phone system to the radio , which is where the mute wire comes into use .If you have either of the phone set ups i've described post back with there details , make , model etc ,if you do not have this type of system and are using an ear piece then the mute funtion can't be used , i hope this is of some help to you

I was having this same problem for a long time, I figured out that if I would disconnect the harness that's in the line then plug it back in that would make the power loss go away, then it started happening about every 4 starts and when I turned on the A/C or defrost, i read about the whole electrical issues and then I got frustrated and was ready to trade mine in. Since I refused to hire a mechanic and me being the typical stubborn woman....LOL, I started changing all the sensors, then I noticed the battery connectors weren't making good contact, so I changed the battery connectors, the engine lihjyt went out and i haven't had a problem yet, I can run the a/c and this thing runs like brand new now; I guess with the corrosion in the wires and on the connectors it wasn't getting the right amount of voltage. Sorry i was long winded but I was hoping this would help people in the future........ Jessica.

You may have a failure, have your local mechanic check the diagnostic codes and have them repaired

behind your fan .

Common problem is that the nut holding the arm on has loosened. Right at the pivot point on the arm is a nut underneath a pop off cover. You should be able to take that off. Tap the arm down far enough to grab the post again and tighten the nut. The only thing that would stand in your way is if the arm connection or the post is stripped in which case you will have to replace the wiper arm, the wiper mechanism, or both.

• From Repair Pal:
• OBD II P0155 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 1)

Symptoms

• Check Engine Light will illuminate
• Vehicle may idle or run rough
• Decrease in fuel economy
• Engine dies
• Black smoke out of the exhaust and/or bad smelling exhaust
• In some unusual cases, there are no adverse conditions noticed by the driver

Common Problems That Trigger the P0135 and P0155 Code

• Defective Oxygen Sensor/Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater element(s)
• Defective Oxygen Sensor/Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater circuit
• Defective Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
• Defective sensor wiring and/or circuit problem
• Defective Oxygen Sensor/Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Relay or Fuse
• PCM software needs to be updated
• Defective PCM
• ------------------

p0300 random misfire- http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300 check ignition and fuel pressure... ----------------------------------- from Asecmt Po401 is from clogged passages for the egr system. the port pipe from EGR to intake manifold is more than likely clogged. You have to remove the throttle body to do. this to clean you remove the throttle body and you will see a tube a couple of inches in the plenum and it will probably be plugged solid so just get a pick or screw driver and start picking. good idea to take the valve off so you can blow through the passage to make sure all is clean From Jamhtx: I took off egr valve, then Once the throttle body was out of way, there was only one port pipe inside intake manifold. It was plugged solid with a hard mudd like feel to it. Several hours picking at it using carb cleaner and long screwdriver, then finally it was cleared. It would of saved time if I had air hose to blow through port once it got looser (but now I know for next time). Went for a short drive, then FINALLY the check engine light went off. Next morning got my emission inspection...passed! I hope this helps!

Go to Best Buy and purchase a CD disc cleaner to clean the photo I inside of the changer

2002 isuzu rodeo 2.2 loss of power will go no more then 10 miles per hour

Lots possible casues. Fuel pump may have failed. Check fuel pressure. A defective crank angle sensor will confuse the computer and cause it not to fire the ignition coils (no spark).

Does anyone know the sizes of the bolts that bolt the alternator to the lower bracket and the lower bracket to the block? Someone has put a slip style lower bracket on my trooper as if I would have to adjust the belt tension manually and I am not too keen about that. I have bought a lower bracket but it did not come with the bolts.

Drop the pan and the filter is inside. No oil drain plug. This is a very messy job!