20 Most Recent 2002 Audi S4 Questions & Answers

Just food for thought, remove the distributor cap and have somebody else crank the engine over and see if the rotor is turning if its not, I'd look at timing belt/chain. My observations are usually timing belts break when starter first engages or when engine shuts off, as most strain on timing components are when first start rotating, or a backfire occurs, seeing as was running fine when you shut it off id check this first, then control module, hope that helps you out.

veral but my first thought was a leaky injector or fuel pressure regulator. here is some detailed info, here goes....... During engine operation, the fuel system is maintaining the required fuel pressure to meet the demand of the engine. When the engine is shut off , the fuel system should be at or near the same pressure level. The rate at which the fuel pressure drops can be an indication of an internal system leak (assuming no external leaking occurs) you don't have this as it would take only hrs to have a start problem. Two most common areas of concern are the fuel injector nozzles and the pressure regulator. If the regulator valve has a poor seal, fuel will leak past the valve seat area and, since the pump is no longer running, pressure will quickly drop off or sometimes slowly. The causes for this could be a worn valve, weak spring or defective diaphragm. An internally leaking regulator can cause long crank times as it takes the pump longer to build pressure in the system. The other potential problem area could be the fuel injector nozzles. The nozzle may be leaking due to a deposit build up on the nozzle or a worn out internal valve seat. In this case, fuel leaks directly into the engine's cylinder. Depending on the number of injectors on the engine, this could be a real problem if more than one injector is leaking fuel into the cylinders. This is a common cause of long crank times and hard starts after a short engine shut down. One leaking and takes days to leak down. Personally I'd start with replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Finding a leaky injector..try this. turn the key to the on position wait 5 minutes look at the injectors see if there is one that looks wet or has deposits around it. You can also do a sniff test (not while running!) sometimes you can get a smell of gas from the leaking injector. (if the wind isn't blowing) Actually try this first before replacing fuel pressure regulator. If it starts up quicker after the 5 minute key on one of the above is the answer. hope i didn't confuse you. Best of luck. Stay warm tis -5f here.

Might be anything, but before going further I wish to check and clear three most common factors:
There are 3 most common reasons for the battery to drain.
You have to check these one by one.
A bad charging system.
Start the engine, and with a mulltimetr, or Volt/ Ohm meter, set at 20V DC, measure the voltage between terminal (+) at the battery, and a good ground. The reading should be 13.8 V to 14.2 V. If this is O.K then you have to check the battery.
Stop the engine and check the voltage between the (+) and (-) terminals of the battery. If the voltage is 12.6Volts than the battery is fully charged. If it is 12.45Volts the battery is 75% charged and so on. A bad battery is not able to hold the charge anymore, and need to be replaced with a new one.
The third reason is a phantom voltage leak.
This is a parasitc electrical drain on the battery, because a relay is sticking, a module is not shutting down, or there is a shorted diode in the alternator. To check this you need a bulb 12V 1 Amp, connected with two wires and two alligator clips. Disconect the harness from the positive terminal of the battery, and connect the bulb in serial, with positive terminal of the battery, and with positive harness of the car. Make sure to create solid contacts with aligator clips. The car electrical system hates sparks, which you have to avoid. As soon as you connect the bulb, the system might sink up to one Amper of electricity. This happen because the modules and computer starts learning, but soon the courent will decrease in milliamps. If not then you have parasitic electrical drain on the battery.

Have you checked the fuse?

The hydraulic power assisted system of the steering system is out of order !

Sorry!.. The information you seek is 'PROPRIETARY'.. meaning it's a secret by the manufacturer. If you really want to fix it yourself?, then contact the manufacturer.

After a certain model year, the module above the glovebox disappeared and the controls it contained were built into the car's computer. If your cruise in your S4 is failing, it's most likely the combination switch (the stalk on the column) - it fails on virtually every B5-chassis Audi at some point (I'm about to install my third one on my 99 A4). Get that part, install it, and you should be good to go.

plug your vag.com in and do a full auto scan save it and keep it safe,you will need to keep it for all your codings,use the ross tech wiki site for the options for your car.i use vag.com and it is a fantastic piece of kit very close to dealer specs,if you need any help please just ask i will do my best to help you...it sounds to me that they have not programmed it properly even if they havent your vag.com will do it ....look at the 7th and 8 digit of your chassis number ,look on the autoscan drop down list click on your car and go for it....

Warning light on mean you car have problem. When the engine warning light remain on for a long, Mostly is your engine system got fault codes. You can use obd2 code scanner to have a check, the fault code will tell you problem

I will quote from the book---"timing chains located at rear of the engine . Removal/installation requires transmission and flywheel removal. All bolts with an angular torque setting MUST be replaced " You will probably find a belt at the front as well. IT does not state a time for the job but with the transmission out I would be looking at around 8 hours for the job to be done properly. I would be getting other quotes as I cannot see 35 -40 hours to pull a transmission and fly wheel and replace 4 chains . If you are not looking an accredited Audi service centre then I might suggest it as there are specialist tools involved.. The chain costs can be checked at the Audi spares department but I suspect that it will be close to the money.

But heat when gas is pressed? Air in the system for some reason or even head gasket has gone bad

Where does it sound like the buzzing noise is coming from? Is it inside the car or out? Does it happen when you go fast, slow..? Does it get louder when you accelerate or stop? Details please.