2006 Volvo S40 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

run the fault codes and check for TCM problem

you may have got water into the electrical connections and shorted them out. Unfortunately there is not a lot of ways to check this other than just going connection by connection and checking if functional.

Your local library has online access to most service manuals that you would have to pay for. Many time you can get access to them through their website if you have a library card. If not, go the library and get full free access to all the major car service manuals for free!

check the fuse box in engine compartment near to the battery if all good check fuse box onside , if there ok then either the battery is dead or the ignition switch has a fault , will need looking at to get a proper diagnosis

catalytic converter was an issue my friend had with the same car and similar problem

try having someone jiggle the trunk up and down from the outside while you pull on the emergency release from the inside, you may have a problem with the wiring in the trunk itself, the wires have a problem chaffing where they come out of the trunk lid and go into the car, you can disconnect both ends and replace that for about $30

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time. Symptoms You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration. Causes A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
Possible Solutions Possible solutions include:
• In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
• Check for a dirty fuel filter[img src="http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif" border="0" alt=""> and proper fuel pressure

the best place for that info is Crutchfield, they sell audio video equip and have taken their own time to make blueprints to follow and also the necessary tools to remove them without damage, I don't work for them and am not affiliated with them in any way

I have a Volvo S40 2.0 Desiel and the Anit Skid Warning Light has come on.. Can you advise what this problem could be and what the next step is in getting it sorted

With a big hammer. Just kidding. you will need a locksmith or a cop with a slimjim tool.some towing companies ca help.

Probably a jam or something mis aligned I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_8f8ad0a8f7e0e6d3

you have a tinimg belt, you can get a kit from IPD VOLVO in OREGON or AUTOHAUZ AZ for hundreds less than the dealer and then take it into your volvo dealer and have them install it, IPD will have the origional volvo parts, you want to do this at 120,000 mi, and make sure, make certain!!! you change the water pump and the timing belt idler pulley, dont cheap out or your might DESTROY the motor!

P071 is not a valid code, you need one more number.

the noise is coming from the vacuum pump for the brake booster. check all the hoses for the brake booster for a tight connection.

Should be self priming,it should still start,if it still turns over.

Hm...Today I have come up with the same problem as yours. When I try to start the engine it does not simly light up. So, I would really be glad if you explain me how you have came over that problem. Thanks!

if you can get inside the car the key should still run it..

Remove air box, locate the shifter cables coming in to the top of your transmission, Right in between the two cables kind of hiding under the piece the cable attach to is where the switch is located. You should be able to see a wire heading into that area. Mine was fairly dirty and hard to spot. I found it much easier to put the car in first gear as it provided the best access to the whole area, its right in under here:

I the engine ran completely out of oil, the engine has been cooked and is probably locked up from the friction between unlubricated metal moving parts. Also may have spun bearings which means the main or rod bearings stacked on top of each other causing the engine to lockup. If you ran the engine without oil until it quit you will probably need a new engine.

unscrew it.