2005 Volvo S40 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

first check your compression if that checks out have your alternator tested it can cause the engine not to start

air con unit under passenger dash has the drain pipe loose or blocked

Go to dealer, they do that for fee.
Or look on chat for S40...
Good luck.

have you tried to goggle this?
Description of vehicle trouble code P0172. ... A code P0172 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty ...

Replacement of the fuel pump would be the case here,unless the fuel filter needs to be changed.To find out,remove the fuel filter,and blow threw it with your mouth,kinda tast bad but it will tell you if the fuel filter is restricted.You should be able to blow threw it easy.

1.If you did not put spare bulb in glove compartment for emergancies (for shame!), buy H7 bulb (W-Mart is best bet). Should be about $8.00 each. The two pack is a better buy.
2. Open car hood. Behind the bulb is a black plastic "peanut butter lid" type of cap that seals the bulb in the housing. Unscrew this cap (1/16 turn) and PUT IT SOMEWHERE SAFE.
3. You will now see back of bulb. Pull off the power wire.
4. At top of bulb is a tension wire holding bulb in place. Unhhook the wire and it will hinge down out of the way.
5. Remove bulb (note its orientation) and discard.
6. Take new bulb out of package, but DO NOT TOUCH GLASS. Only hold bottom. Finger oils on glass will cook and reduce bulb life. Wipe glass clean just to be sure.
7. Install new bulb using same orientation as old bulb (it will not fit any other way) and re-latch the tension wire. Re-attach power wire (a dab of dielectric grease here would make for a professional job).
Get black cap from your safe place, note which part is bottom, and screw back on (1/16 turn).
8. Test the light, close the hood.
9. Put spare bulb in glove compartment so that next time bulb dies

You can pick up a used switch at a junk yard. To get the window up until then, you can disconnect the wires from the switch. Keep them from touching anything metal. Using a volt meter, determine which wire is hot. Touch that wire to one of the other wires to make the window go up. If it does not go up with the first wire, touch the second wire to the hot wire, and the window should go up. Protect the hot wire from touching anything metal in the door until you can install the new switch.

I found this for you hope this helps, Go to http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downloads...-v70-ac-fix.pdf

i really hate to say but im betting that internally there is components wore over tolerance. most popular is cam bearings wore and leaking by. in most cases lack of oil changes or frequent short trips cause sludge to build up in engine and cause oil passesges to become restricted and the cam being high in the engine, this sees the most slime build up and starves the most for oil... as engine warms,oil thins, and the problem becomes urgent. i hope this helps but sure sounds like you need some internal re working done

Sounds like a bad ac compressor

REPLACE THE SENSOR

It sounds like the maf isn't communicating with the computer. Causing the fuel mixture to be to rich, tailpipe is probably black with soot. I would check the connection for corrosion and clean it well with some electrical contact cleaner, and then use some dielectric grease on it before reconnecting it. If that doesn't solve it check the harness for a bad wire (burnt or worn through insulation or a short). If you have a scan tool reset the computer or just disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to erase the codes. They dont clear until the system cycles quite a few times without any codes coming up. I hope this helps.

It sounds like your cooling fans are not working.Need to check the cooling fan fuses,and the cooling fan relays.There is also a high side switch mounted somewhere on the high side of the ac system that cuts the fans on,or kicks them up on high speed when the ac system gets to high on the high side of the system.This switch may also cut the compressor off.I would check the fuses and relays for these fans first,this is more likely the problem.Is the car running normal temperature? If not the fans may not be running at all.Have them checked.The fan or fans may be bad them selfs.If I can be any more help,let me know.>>[email protected]

somtimes bulbs will flash(burn up the gases inside) u may see some blackaning on the inside of the bulb ,somtimes not but the filement will still be intact. replace the bulbs and see what happens.

It sounds like the park switch in the top end of the wiper motor is stuck closed.

Charlie

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sv40cabinfilter.php 

Sounds like the instrument cluster has gone bad or a bulb in the cluster has burnt out. You will need to remove the cluster and check the bulbs to see if they need to be replaced.

Since you are going to check the one way valve and cleaning the filter too, I would recommend to check the intake air filter and clean it throughly. After that use carb cleaner to free up the nozzles of the injector valve . If the engine sound better after using carb cleaner, add some into the fuel from the fuel filter or pump, whichever one has easy access, and gun your engine in short bursts, after which it should run better.........sodeep

Do you have your owners Manual for the car? If so it should give recommendations in there.