2005 Volvo S40 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

A whistle is a hard thing to figure out, mainly because the tiniest hole can make a sound, even one that cannot be seen. I a a like problem with my intake manifold, I finally found it by carefully using starting fluid in small localized area along the manifold and when I found the hole the engine rpm came up then back down, but I could not see the hold even with a magnifier glass. So am not sure how to give you any ideas on how to check to find a hole you cannot see in your case, but I know even a antenna on your car can if bent slightly will also whistle on some models (this is why some antennas have a small wire wound around the main shaft, to break the wind passing the antenna.) Good luck on figuring this one out.

P0303 is a misfire on cylinder 3 - check the ignition and injector on that cylinder. P0171 means engine is running lean (probably related to the above).Start by checking the tune of the engine, verifying with a timing light that all cylinders have spark. Since these are coil over plug, swapping cylinder 2 with cylinder 3 should result in P0302 in addition to P0303 DTCs being set. If there's a problem with the VVT (Variable Valve Timing system) then there should be a DTC associated with that as well.If you have spark, then it goes on towards a faulty injector. If both spark and fuel are present, it's possible that the VVT (Variable Valve Timing) system is freewheeling cylinder 3. Usually that implies the hydraulic lifter seals are faulty though there should be a noticeable valve tap at idle.In any case, testing out ignition then fuel then ruling out VVT-related issues should resolve the problem completely. I have seen many of these have problems with the plumbing to the valve lifters getting clogged and that results in a dead cylinder.

Won't turn over or won't start? If it won't start - chances are good the oil must be changed and the glow plugs looked at. Need more information on this - specifically, does the engine attempt to run at all? Any DTCs?

ill bet the wires are crossed

and the problem is.....

Usually about 1800-2200 rpm

Follow the cable from the battery to where it bolts onto the engine and body, I think it's a two sectioned cable, See if you can see any other wires attached to it and check for shabby loose little bits of broken wires that fit into the actual connector at the cable ends.Electrical connections are normally joined to the positive cable on most cars.If nothing ,Then go to an independent parts retailer and get a cheaper version matched up as they're all made from the same materials. Phew $400 is a bit crazy. greed is spreading rampagely on our planet, Especially within the motor industry.Good luck.

Some ignition system locks will not release the key unless you push in towards the column while turning further off. It is a safety device to stop in advertent removal of the key while moving. Try that first.

you need a scanner having your car's program and to do the alarm reset to reset the alarm.

P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1)
Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a rich condition (too little oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0175, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms: You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a misfire.


Causes: A code P0172 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
* There could be a vacuum leak.
* There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem


Possible solutions include:
* Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
* Cleanthe MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
* Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
* Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
* Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.
* Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible)


Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

switch is worn out

I had a similar experience. Finally the car started overheating. Turned out the thermostat went bad and the radiator blew a leak. Had those replaced. Runs great.

there will be no easy fix here other than to replace the compressor. have this done by an air con expert. expect to pay for gas, compressor , air receiver/ drier and possible tx valve

check ur fuses

Check vaccuum leaks and fuel injection system.

Go to that location and start there .JUST KIDDING !!! I would try to take out the fuse to this unit and it might reboot itself ,

power steering is lok! the motor is working

You may have to dismantle the player unfortunately.

You have a failed alternator i think, have it tested.

Duplicate question.