Top 20 2005 Volvo S40 Questions & Answers

Yes, but there is a TPC sensor too!!!

You can find vacuum leaks with something smoking, such as a cigar or a sage bundle or a can of carb cleaner will sometimes help you locate the leak.

this is where i get mine from try here...scroll down for your model.. Volvo Workshop Manuals

A problem I had with my 2003 BMW was that the wiring near the trunk hinge that feeds the lock mechanism had been bent back and forth enough times (I open my trunk several times a day) that some of the wires broke. The only way I could get in the trunk was by the mechanical key. The fob and the button release in the cabin did not work. I was able to access enough wiring before and after the hinge area to do a continuity check on the wires and at least a quarter of them had broken. Later I realized that the third center brake light (which is on the trunk lid) was out too. After some patience of unraveling all the wiring I was able to reconnect everything ... but it took several hours.... In your case I do not understand that your latch will not open. Usually if it is set in the lock position when open ... you can stick a screw driver in the mechanism and rotate back the engaging hook which then stays in the open position until you close the trunk again. If that is not the case with yours, then the mechanism may indeed be toast. Helpful?

Hi your air injector pump is noisy as they get old they make more sound .if functions are not correct you will have throttle issues if your vehicle runs good I would put up with sound issue could last long making noise .expensive part to replace

Here is what one other owner had to do at a dealer, read through it and take it from there, and yes the pressure switch will cause this problem. I have received the same error codes as all of you, t P0090 (Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit) and P0190 (Fuel Rail pressure sensor circuit malfunction). Same symptoms. I've had the fuel pressure checked, valves, changed the spark plugs (by the dealership), software upgrade, cleaned the battery terminals, ran heet through the engine about twice, and .... nothing. The dealership couldn't figure it out either. Eventually they came to the conclusion that it was a corroded battery cable, that they would graciously change for $800. ... so, I didn't do it, because I seriously doubt its the battery cables. In the winter it had trouble starting as well, and would flood, I had to unplug the injectors sometimes to get it started. I really can't think of anything else, i'll clean the throttle body this weekend, and start running on premium to see if it makes a difference. If the dealership can't figure it out, you know its a mystery. I'm starting to wonder if its a computer problem.

Get somebody who has a diagnostic scanner... OBD .. to connect it to your car and see if there are any error codes. It's possible that a sensor has failed

sounds like the doors that open and close that direct the air are jammed, or are not receiving a signal. Have someone run a code check which should tell you. May just need to have a faulty code erased or...$$$ repair by Volvo.

Pull the codes with a obd2 scan tool and see what faults are stored in the system computer. After that you will hopefully have a better idea of what you are dealing with and can focus your repairs more easily.

We don't have the 1.8 engine here, but the diagram for the 2.4 engine is at the link below. They should be similar. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=121843

this should help you How To Replace an Alternator on 2006 Volvo S40 T5 Part 1 Removal as long as its the same engine but it will be the same to the alternator, and ac pump will be fine just remove the belt and put back on after its not a major part changing the belt.

Unless is was the one doing the testing I can not say that it will fix the problem. I would check the fuel pressure, the fact you have a rich code (P0172) means you may have excessive fuel pressure and the sensor is reading that.I assume this is a four or six cylinder and you have only one bank of cylinders. Check the fuel pressure before you do any parts replacing.

use a meter and test the connections ,lines ,pump for damage or short

Alot of oem cd players require being programmed to the vehicle vin only a dealer can do this.

There is an option in the car's computer to change the display language. You will need an ODBII scanner to do this however. Alternately you can take it yo your dealer and they will be $ happy to $ do this $ for you.$$$

Most of the time there is a fuse for the washer motor and it usually is in car fuse box not engine bay fuse box , but 9 times out of ten it is the washer motor at fault . Even if there is a fuse for it and it's blown it's blown for a reason

Make the timing belt is installed properly, otherwise all the intake valves will be bent because it is a high interference combustion chamber. Check compression after properly timed. If you are off any teeth at all the head will need to come back off to get repaired.

Well it's hard to ans your question without car info some cars have electron steering some have hydrulic fluid I need more info engine year automatic it would help good luck

Sounds like the vehicle is not charging you may need a new alternator get the car going with jump leads again and test the voltage at the battery terminals with a DC volt meter expect 13.5-14.5 if you get less than 13.5 your alternator is bad or wiring fault also check the alternator belt is tight.

You need to release the bonnet from the release catch under by the steering wheel. Normally Red in colour. You need to pull it towards you.
When you go to the bonnet it should be slightly raised up. Put your hand in the middle and there should be a small handle catch for you to push to one side . you should be able to pull the bonnet up then.