Where is the AC relay ?
Phil
There are 3 relays along the side of the engine compartment close to the battery. Next to these 3 relays are 2 more relays directly in front of the battery. Of the 3 relays, the one closest to the battery is the ac compressor relay. The ac condensor fan motor relay is the one on the left directly in front of the battery and is next to the ac compressor relay.
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Posted on Jul 14, 2008
I was given code number 0455 in reference to why the engine light is on in my car, it gets shut off and then it comes back on again. What is this code mean?
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow
or large leak)
What does that mean?
This indicates a fuel vapor leak or lack of purge flow in the EVAP control
system. It means a large leak has been detected. The (EVAP) emission control
system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel
vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. Later, when the
engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon
the fuel vapors into the engine.
Symptoms
You likely won't notice any drivability problems.
Causes
A code p0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:
Possible Solutions
With a p0455, the most common repair is to:
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
the steering wheel is very hard to turn at times but there is no power steering fluid leaks. what could be the problem?
check that the return lines on the steering rack are not blocked.
And make sure the Drive belt for the pump is tight.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
I know there are 2 fuse boxes 1 is inside y the engine, where is the 2nd fuse Box, I need to change a fuse my radio does not work....can anyone tell me where is the fuse box?
The main fuse panel is inside the engine compartment. The second fuse box is located under the drivers side of the dashboard. Remove the fuse box cover (if equipped) by pushing in at both ends and pulling off the cover.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
what power steering fluid is used on the Suzuki XL-7?
Automatic transmission fluid, Dextron III is used.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
I have a 2002 Suzuki XL7 it has 130000 miles on it it has always ran great still does but every time I go to a stop it dies every time I turn and let the idle go down it dies when I start it first time in the day it starts and dies right away the only way I drive it is I have to keep the idle up so it wont die every stop sign and light I got to put it in neutral and keep reving it or it dies I diconected the neg on the battery and tried resetting it that didn't work someone told me it was the throttle position sensor replaced that that didn't work when it got read on the codes that was one of them also the IAC basically it wont stay idleing the idle drops and it dies does anyone have a suggestion
Its the IAC i had the same issue, with my 2002 xl-7 with 159,000 miles on it, i had it clean and it causing me no more problems. the part itself to replace is 200 bucks at Autozone and my mechanic will do it for 100 bucks in labor. Good Luck
Posted on Nov 24, 2010
how do you remove an alternator for a 2002 suzuki XL7, having problems with the lower bolt, and also, any hints on replacing the belts
yes use a small socket wrench as in a 1/4 in drive i had the same problem with my echoe not a lot of room to undo bolt with a bigger ratchet...As for the belt if serpitine you need to remember how to put the belt back in there should be a tensioner pulley that you need to move to remove and replace belts however swinging alternator out of way or removing same will allow some belts to be removed if only 1
Posted on Dec 21, 2009
i have a 2002 suzuki xl7 and i would like to know which side is bank 1 & 2 and which sensor is sensor 1 & 2
I assume then that this is a v6. Bank one should be the drivers side (I think) . Sensor 1 would be the one before the catalytc convertor and sensor 2 would be the one after it.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
torque specs head bolts. cam hold down bolts.
Here's a link.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8037c651
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
I took my Suzuki XL-7 out for a 20-minute drive this afternoon. After parking it for 45 minutes, it started but ran *very* roughly for about 10 seconds before it quit. I tried to start it again but had to keep pressing the gas pedal to keep it running, and even then it ran very rough again and dies after about 6-8 seconds. I could not get it started again after that. It cranks fine, so the battery and starter are doing their job, but the engine just won't run. It has never done this before and there was no indication prior to this that anything was going wrong. I spoke with an ex-mechanic at Auto Zone who said it could be anything from an ICV or ECV, to an EGR valve, to vaccum, to fuel pump and/or filter, and more. I suspect I should start with the easiest thing and work my way through diagnosing the hardest component, but I am not sure how to check any of that, or even where to begin. Any help would be much appreciated!
I suggest, a more initial thing first, you change the TPS first. Reasonably cheap and easier to change as it is on the throttle on the engine. I am assume he read the codes after he hooked up his analyzer. This does give 'options' to check out to so as to cover their buts. The Dealerships charges to do this but their computers are more expensive and bigger and will tell one what it is exactly wrong. Even though the law specifies that they publish this info and make this info available to the public, none of the manufacturers do this. Snap-On, Sears, Cornwell Tools and other tool makers wish they could get this info so their computers could diagnose. It's a big problem considering it is on a computer disc and a special program which forces the car owner to refer to the.
Posted on Feb 13, 2015
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