20 Most Recent 1999 Plymouth Breeze - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The thermostat may not fully open. When this happens the flow is restricted and the water will enter the overflow since there is no where else for it to go. Also you may want to check the water pump, they can slowly go bad and they show the exact symptoms you described when they do.

Your actually not giving it gas,your moving the throttleplate on a dry system & also the Throttle Position SensorSo check the voltage on both side of the TPS SensorOne side goes up & the other goes downThe computer has a 5 volt reference,so you will see a little less than 5V closed & movement down to 1Vor so & the other side 1 to 5The next thing would be to remove & clean the AICair idle control valve if you have on

on one side of the radiator near the bottom is a petcock. open the petcock to drain. Take the radiator cap off to do this to allow it to vent so it will drain out.
If you cant find it, remove the bottom hose off the radiator. This is messy but effective.

Did you bleed the air from the cooling system as outlined in the factory service manual? Has the radiator been cleaned by a professional radiator repair shop, is the head cracked? You had it tested for cracks? It is one of these most likely that is causing the problem or a combination of them.

under car usually around gas tank...if not call local autozone for location......hope this help and good luck..

because we bought a piece of junk!

If you've had your waterpump changed along with your timming belt them they did not line it all up correctly and now you have a bent valve.

either your thermostat is out or your water pump

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0996b43f802d6e2d&partName=Oil+Pan&partId=0996b43f802d6e2d

resister for blower.

The horn relay is probably the culprit. It should be located under the hod, inside a plastic cover, housing the relays & breakers. Locate the horn relay, (it should be labeled), and check for constant 12 volts to it with the key in the on position. If you have power there check for power at the other input terminal when the horn ring is depressed. If you have power, then replace the relay. murf427

the fuse. mine went crazy and honked when ever it felt like it. i pulled the fuse and put it back in and it worked. a couple months down the line it blew so now i just need a new one :)

a red wire with a 30a inline fuse sounds like a low end power wire for an amplifier. Was it anywhere near the battery?

Where is it loose? If you mean the plastic fasteners, like bullet clips, or rubber things that go around the bottom and up the sides, they fit into slots in the heavy cardboard backing of the panel. You slide the old one over a bit and free it and slide the new one in. If the bottom is floppy, loose, or the sides, you just need 2 or 3 inches clearance to put new fasteners in. If you can get a good look at one, you will see which way they slide or are pushed over to remove them. There's about 6 or 8 along the bottom, but 3 well placed ones would hold it tight. If you can't get to them, though, or if you mean another fastener (I think there's only rather small screws and those plastic pins.) then you will have to take the panel off. First remove all screws, some may be hidden behind a speaker screen or a little square trim piece. Then slip a blade or thin screwdriver under the panel to pry out the plastic pins. Start at the bottom and work up the sides. When all are popped out, the panel should be loose. Lift out and up to clear the panel out of the window channel`. Pull all the electrical connectors you need to to get the panel free. Well, good luck. Hope I've helped you some.