Check the condition of spark plugs, if dirty or oily could be the timing gear or timing, wouldn't show a code, if plugs are white suggests lack of fuel, also no code . ( injector cleaner and ethanol remover for the latter ). Repair shop for timing.
you have to first remove all the Plastic trim pieces around the head liner that hold it in place including grab handles or clothes hangers then it will come down easily, i recommend having an extra set of hands when you take it down so as not to damage it, then simply slide it out through the rear hatch. it is actually very easy to do.
Do a websearch for the diagram of your vehicles Power Distribution Center(PDC) under your hood to find which fuse controls the 'Sentry Key Immobilizer' this is what was causing it on my Grand Cherokee..even if the fuse is ok it may be corroded and need cleaned and reset in position. Also check the one for the ASD as it was both in mine. Clean your grounds while your at it.
You can get the code by switching the key to run, off, run, off, run. The last time you switch it to run leave it on. The check engine light will flash the code. just count the flashes. you can find more info on this on the internet along with what the codes mean. As for the problem the codes will probably point to the cam or crank position sensor failing.
It likely has EFI (electronic fuel injection) and an idle air control valve that regulate idle speed. They can get gummed and fail to have a fast idle when cold, or get stuck the other way, and have a too fast idle all the or regularly take its time slowing down after you take your foot off the gas. An engine temp sensor can also cause a lingering high idle if it reports the engine as still being cold after warm up.
Go to the cherokeeforum.com, (cherokee-forum-dot-com)... Join the forum. You'll be surprised just how many other Jeep XJ owners are there to help... I joined that forum the 1st week after i bought my 1993 Jeep XJ..... They' always give ya a straight answer & can usually give step-by-steps on how to fix a problem, all ya gotta do is ask...
Sounds like the alarm system is activated..
Deactivate the security system by installing key in hatch or pass side door and locking/unlocking three times. All doors/hood/hatch must be fully closed while doing so.
they made 5million I6s
most work.
what is the question, ?
long block
short block
or long + all manifolds, no most of the manifolds will not work.
there are other issues, legal
say you are in calif, and they disallow older motors on POINT.
serial numbers. and date codes.?
i cant answer for law , only fit and work. (no country even stated or state) and one mans fit is other mans, horror.
most things can be made to fit, if SKILLED.
bolt in swaps, sure.
any motor re-builder shows this,ever look there?
years of applicability are well known by them.
first google hit , am i lucky?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51107_0000.htm
here is my cheat sheet
head.s
Year............Casting No
1987-90......2686
1991-95......7120 HO flows.
1996-99......0630
2000-01......0331
block.
Year............Casting No. ...........................Part No.
1987...........53005535 (8933002665)....83503400
1988-90........53005535 (8933002665)....83505110
1991...........53008405..............................4626155
1992...........53008405..............................4638959
1993...........53008405..............................4728988
1994-95........53008405..............................4778882
1996-99........53020569..............................4883025
2000-01........53010449AA............................5013166AB
if you want all facts join any real jeep form (not here....xxxxx)
and see all the pros and cons for 5 million engines.
just one set of heads like to crack , i think.
Search amazon.com for "Chilton jeep grand Cherokee" and you will see results for both Chilton and Haynes repair manuals. You might also be able to find the same book(s) at your local AutoZone or NAPA store. Amazon com chilton jeep grand cherokee
If it really is in Lo you should be able tell as you will only be able to go half as fast as you normally do in any gear. some of jeep's lights are linked to the vacuum system and are a joke as well as hard to fix the lights on the dash. if it is not in Lo when you have the lever in all time, it wont hurt anything to drive it.
what are you doing, do tell the JOB !
brake job, new calipers, what. or that and found rusty lines
why not just say>? so we can be on same page. as you.
can i buy a space, how much?
im under the car.
im and the front right brake lines
there are 2, one is rubber and one is steel.
which one.?
lines are steel and hoses are rubber like organics.
which?
the 96, ZJ
the FSM covers all this., for free here. page 11 in brakes.
if you have to ask that , that tells me you've never done brakes
nor read any books on it, why not read first then ask.
nor ASE classes? SAFETY FIRST , your's and mine on road.
the steel lines have fittings on the end, hex head
and we use special (sold in all autostores on earth) brake box wrenches with cut outs. for lines
this takes off the fittings with NO DAMAGE>
the hoses are more tricky.
lets say they are cracked, the rubber
i disconnect the steel line to the hose input and stuff a
golf tee, in the end or again, special tools for brakes.
i then unclamp the rear hose, clamp at frame
then the hose at the caliper.
reverse this and bleed.
end story
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
read all that, and brakes for dummy;s first at amazon.
I have been tracing a short in the back end. I found the handle was loose and the doom light on/off switch were all out of sync. Had to set the latch and reset all switches to where they worked.
lots. cars bounce , wires flex and break then short. all moving machines to that. (bad designs. in my book) read "flight 800" and cry.
my wild guess is the radio fuse blows.???? why not say?
that means the line is shorted or the load there, is shorted.
the way to find this is easy, to hard.
disconnect the loads. short gone, its bingo time.
if not , the power feed is shorted.
that means this wire is shorted some where.
i have a magic tool, that finds this fast. most dont. (i have TDR)
but i have a LINK, to a long video of a man, Duane doing this.
and ASE master, watch him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZrCrBx4uFY
its a trainng class, so is slow. but good.
what all techs to is ISOLATION method first.
loads off, ? still shorted. then
check the current with the magic, cheap circuit breaker and ammeter check.
then start pulling the harness connectors end to end
and find which section is shorted.
that is it , just that. its only a wire, nothing to fear
sometimes you can just follow it with eyes and see why its shorted.
its not magic, in the video the wire was burnt by the exhaust parts.
one more example with real car, real schematics as an example.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html
good luck finding your shorts.
You should have a test port on the Fuel Supply rail, use a tool from a local auto parts "Tool Loaner program" where you can borrow tools for free,w/a deposit of course,then follow the steps provided;
MPI Fuel System Pressure Test
The MPI fuel system used in vehicles equipped with a 4.OL engine employs a vacuum balanced pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) lower with the vacuum line attached to the regulator than with the vacuum line disconnected. System fuel should be 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum line disconnected. CAUTION: Some fuel may be discharged when connecting fuel gauge to fuel rail.
Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail (Fig. 7).
Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator.
Start the vehicle.
Note gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi).
Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi).
If fuel pressure is not approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 655 kPa (95 psi) when the fuel return tine is pinched shut, shut engine down immediately after pinching oft fuel return line.
If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises replace fuel pressure regulator.
If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage.
Capacity Test
Remove the cap from the pressure test port in the fuel rail.
Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting on the fuel rail (Fig. 7).
Start the vehicle. Pressure should be approxi- mately 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum hose removed from the pressure regulator.
If the pressure is not to specification, check the following before replacing the fuel pressure regulator:
4a - Inspect the fuel supply and return lines/hoses for kinks or restricting bends
4b - Check the fuel pump flow rate. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, then inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or fuel pump inlet filter (sock). Fuel pump flow rate can be done by connecting one end of an old A/C gauge hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail and inserting the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Be sure to pinch off the fuel return line or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank.
Use some turpentine to put on the old gasket material to loosen it up, then get a 1" scraper and some good wire brushes and scrape off as much as you can before wire brushing.
Will take some elbow grease but the turpentine will loosen any gasket material making it much easier.
no engine option stated.
so generic.
mark wires , 1,2,3,4 etc. (cylinder numbers) if coil pack
if just a 1 wire coil, (HV)
then just unplug it.
then unbolt it.
what more needs to be known, zero
read the FSM yet>
free?
chapter 8D ignition?
page 3 , page 12 yet/
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
bingo???
