20 Most Recent 1989 Jeep Comanche - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Good chance that either the switch itself is bad and only making connection when it feels like it. I'd also check the power supply to the switch and make sure any of the connectors aren't corroded.
Brake and signal lights are on their own circuit....that's why they still work. Personally, I'm betting on the switch.

About what wires or circuit are talking ? What year and model?

Probably just rust or corrosion holding it in

Is there correct fuel pressure after the pump was ran dry?

You have to remove the brake backing plate and then pull the shaft with a slide hammer.Or if the car was right on the changover the backing plate of the diff needs to come off.Push the axles in and remove the c shaped clip.DON'T let the pinion gears move..Hope this helps

Your looking for power on the yellow wire when the ignition switch is in the run or start position. This feeds power to the ignition module and power that energies the fuel pump relay as well.

If there is power let me now and we will dig a little deeper. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Look for a heat source that may be too close to the injector.

A rear main seal leak usually misses the clutch and certainly would not cause a release issue. Your issue sounds like something is wrong with the clutch master or slave. Perhaps you have run low on fluid and need to bleed air out.....perhaps some leaking has allowed fluid to escape. Investigate. If you did run low on fluid, you will need to pre bleed (bench bleed) the MC or you may never get pressure again. You can buy a kit that allows bleeding of MC n place, the bellder kit has hoses that hook up where the output line of the MC and allwos the other end to go into the MC reservoir. Pump until no bubbles, then do not let fluid go low, or start over again.

It will attach to the intake manifold all engine vacuum or vacuum of any kind originates from intake manifold Look for an air fitting thats open Something you can plug a hose on Also listen for hissing sound this may help you locate vacuum leak Vechiles do not run vary well with a vacuum leaks

you can go to auto zone and they will print you a diagram for your vehicle. free of charge!! have a good one!!

go to manualspace.com, and follow the prompts

bring your no 1 piston up to top dead center, remove valve cover and make sure no 1 exhaust is open and you will see the alignment marks on the pulleys.

It may be a good idea to follow the fluid flow. First check that you can get fluid to flow from the master to the line (loosen the fitting at the master cyl while someone steps on the brake) then lock it down and move to the other end and do the same thing at the valve. then, on the outlet side of the valve. If the valve is stuck, replace it.

hi this could be a couple of things, first, the equalizing valve this is the valve that sends the fluid through the brake lines evenly if it is blocked at any point that could cause the problem, other thing could be is the master cylinder this is the part that has the reservoir connected to it, the seals may be u/s and that could need replacing, it sounds like you have a seized caliper on the front right, try removing the wheel and getting a G clamp and pushing the caliper back as far as it will go, also try bleeding the brakes again, there is a certain way to do this, you have to start at the furthest brake away from the master cylinder, then work your way around till you get to the closest one, this way you will be moving the air closer to the last caliper, i don't know how you are bleeding your brakes, but i normally use a glass bottle half filled with fluid and a clear pipe going to the bottom of the bottle, getting someone to pump the brakes until they go really hard and keeping their foot hard on the peddle then undo the bleed nipple on the caliper , this forces the air out , when the persons foot is down tell them to keep it down till you do up the bleed nipple, continue doing this until you get no air bubbles coming out into the bottle, keep topping up the reservoir do not let it go low, there is some things to try, post back as to your results thanks

feed from ballast resistor to gauge then on to tank sensor and it earths back through the tank ,its metal on these real good old motors ,make sure the earth is good to the tank though

I am sorry buyt we are a technical advice we site, we have no connections with parts suppliers, i suggest u just do a google search fopr whatever it is u need for the truck.