I take it that it cranks over but will not start. Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it runs, you have a fuel problem. You may have disconnected the fuel system by unplugging a connector or grounding a wire blowing a fuse.
on the relay there will be a small wire that gets power when you turn the key to the start position
find that wire and connect it to the small terminal of the starter solenoid
then if you get it right , when you turn the key to start, power will get to the starter solenoid , energize the solenoid and the starter will engage
Most vehicles have a high idle until the engine gets hot. As for your random problem, might want to check for any vacuum leaks that could cause this problem.
When checking, best to do with cold engine. Start your vehicle and spray short amounts of starting fluid near vacuum hoses, if idle changes, you may have a leak. Keep away from exhaust manifold if at all possible. Also spray near intake hoses and air filter housing.
best answer is see alldata.com and not build motors with rumors.
id never not fail to do that. (and win)
listen to Colin Hill, 27yr bolts are C-R-A-P, (called END of life)
they are not TTY and has nothing at all to do with this topic
ill not list why.!.. but can if asked.
my online fsm shows. updated proc.
even more important is order.
i sold my Comanche, they are rare and a great car. PU.
circular pattern from center outward, right side first.
1191 is new head, 53005535
Install the cylinder head and bolts. The threads of bolt No. 11 must be coated with Loctite 592 sealant before installation. Tighten the bolts in 3 steps, using the correct sequence:
Tighten all bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Tighten all bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
Retighten all bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in sequence to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
Tighten bolt 11 to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm)
Tighten bolts 12 through 14 to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm)
ill see if the old head is same. it is.
try alldata.com and stop guessing and digging up rumors
or post what are the top , 5 reason for new gasket failures.
1: not checked for warp, deck and head. then resurfaced.
2: using the old , bolts. dah?
3: wrong head gasket or not using a Felpro. using ebay china gaskets.
4: not using the steps in the FMS.
5:not getting head pressure checked.
no spark to all 6 cylinders, or just 2 ????????????????????????
did you check all fuses first??????????
did you check that the CEL lamp glows, key on? MIL lamp?
if not? the main is dead, or fuse dead.(blown)
ok this is the very very old and obscure Jeep Bendix/Renix system.
the hard part is , it is NOT OBD1 engine yet, making diagnosis very hard. and no distributor. (new for MPI)
is yours the 4.0 I-6
and is it the 1 year, MPI engine? WITH MAF SENSOR!!
this is and AIR DENSITY SYSTEM unlike most other jeeps.
1989 - Changed to Renix MPFI. (read 4 injectors now>....)
i owned a 88 Comanche, love it. 200,k miles i drove from 0
other that ISC motor, zero issues. mine was TBI , no MAF.
this MPI has a coil pack with 3 coils in side, and uses the famous.
wasted spark design, even my new jeep v6 has this.
the coil is driven by a separate ICM , ignition control module.
The ICM, iis driven by the PCM(ECU)
your car has a CKP sensor (crank) fitted to the BELL
for the 3 marks, on the flywheel
quote FSM. The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is secured by special shouldered bolts to the flywheel/drive plate housing. It is preset in its mounting at the factory and is non-adjustable in the field.
this means it tunes like a marconi radio, its not a hall sensor...!!!
its just a coil with weak outputs.
is it loose?
id do not know where the CAm CMP sensor is.
the online books mix 5 systems bad, this engine was EFI was
a one year only system. (French)
My wild guess is the CMP is this funny device, on the right
side of engine, where the DIZZY USED to be. called the cam sensor.
that too, must work and i think its a hall sensor and is very easy to test.
sadly no OBD1 and no CEL: flash codes.
to blink out, CMP/CKP dead. cranking
just very old factory scan tool works
i had and 88. 4.0L I6 with the nasty Bendix-Renix EFI. love /hate that.
sure when i bought mine new, got the FSM with it, (i demanded it)
the books are IN CHUNKS, main book , no engine, nor tranny
then had to buy 4L blue thin book and one for my Peugeot 5speed, (hate the clutch slave i do)
The crank sensor is a good candidate. Pretty common failure on jeeps. To clarify, the fuel pump is on all time during engine cranking, and during engine running. When the engine cuts off, the pump will also be stopped. But, you will not lose pressure in the fuel lines and fuel rail immediately. The check valve in the pump is supposed to hold fuel pressure in the system for a good time-about 20 minutes. The pressure should bleed off very slowly.
Your fuel pump and fuel system is probably good, but if you really lose prime (or pressure) that quickly, then there is a problem. Best way to check is with a fuel pressure gauge after the engine cuts out. Or, if you have the test port schraeder valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve), you can use a screwdriver to press the center of the valve. If gas squirts out, you do have fuel pressure, prime is not lost, fuel system is good, and you can assume problem is in the ignition circuit, not a fuel problem. Probably the crank position sensor. Good luck, Casey.