20 Most Recent 1988 Jeep Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You will probably need to replace your head gasket, Pressure in the expansion bottle means blown head gasket.

Sounds like your ignition switch might have quit on you.

DID YOU REMOVE ANY VACUUM LINES OR ANY THING NEAR THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AREA.OR DID YOU REMOVE ACCELERATOR LINKAGE MISROUTE IT CAUSE BINDING OR PULLING ON CABLE THIS WILL MAKE VECHICLE IDLE HIGH.

The check engine light is not in the cluster on an 88. It is in the information center to the left of the cluster where your brake light, seat belt light, lower washer fluid light, etc. are located. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

i wouldnt like to hazard a guess here ,also the description isnt very good either ,rotates and hits and miss ,Best advice i can offer here is to ask a local mechanic to have a look and then post what he says ,This sounds like it could be the flex plate on the torque converter has broken around the crankshaft retaining bolts ?? but its very difficult to say without hearing it ,but if this is the problem then its cheaper to buy a new vehicle

I am experincing the same problems with my 1988 jeep Cherokee 4.0. It died coming home one day,I replaced the motor and it turns over but gets no fire. I have repaced the control module, and distributor brand new my coil is testing good. I am wondering if it is my ECU also. The plug coming off distributor has one wire showing bright on test light, and one showing a dim light on test light and was wondering if you have checked these wires? Trying to figure out what will make these both shine bright.

WAS IT DOING IT BEFORE THE HOLE, IF SO THEN FIX THE HOLE!

Hope this helps (remember to rate this).

Follow the hose from the radiator that goes to the engine block it will to the inlet manifold on that manifold u should find a two wire plug that is the coolant sensor. do not cofuse it with the temp sensor remember tha coolant sensor wires are alway two wired.

When you take the weight off the bearing it will stop making the noise. Grab a friend,go for a drive and see if you can narrow down which wheel is making the noise.Good luck

Sounds like you have over filled your engine oil

I bet you have a bad shock absorber.The shocks job is to control exactly what you describe.

If it is for the alternator.it is most likely built in, if not it try to trace alternator wiring to it.

Torque settings are 110 ft LBS for nine of the ten bolts one bolt is 100 ft LBS /#1 Tighten all bolts in sequence 1 to 10 at 22 ft LBS #2 tighten all bolts 1 to 10 at 45 ft LBS #3 tighten all bolts 1 to 6 at 110 ft LBS #4 bolt #7 at 100 ft LBS #5 BOLT 8 TO 10 AT 110 FT LBS . HEAD TIGHTEN SEQUENCE - standing at front of car bolts down left side are 8/4/1/5/9 bolts down right side are 7/3/2/6/10. left side meaning distributor side.

I need an engine size to help.

Buy a new window regulator on ebay, about a hundred bucks, and pay an auto glass store to put it in for you. Much cheaper than a dealer and doing it yourself is such a pain in the a** that you will be thankful you paid someone else to do it.

We just got a 1988 Jeep Laredo and we fixed it by putting on a crank shaft position valve

sounds like timing jumped

May have a plugged up radiator or a bad fan clutch.

the problem is caused by the engine overheating, replace ALL cooling system hoses, then have the engine tested for a blown head gasket